Morocco’s most atmospheric city offers a delicate balance between ancient traditions and modern-day conveniences. Chic art galleries stand next to 16th-century palaces and contemporary fashion boutiques rub shoulders with mom-and-pop stalls in the souks. Get lost in its intoxicating and chaotic medina for a few days, an essential part of any visit to Marrakech, and then step outside the walls to explore the rest of the city.

The first sight you’re likely to lay yours eyes on is without a doubt the Koutoubia Mosque, symbol of Marrakech and visible from almost every location in the city.

Constructed in the 12th century, its beautiful minaret stands taller at 77m than anything else in Marrakech due to an old city law that forbids any other building in the old city to rise above the height of a palm tree. You’ll find it a useful beacon at times to steer you in the right direction when you’ll inevitably find yourself lost in the labyrinthine alleys.

Marrakech is also known as a garden city and perfectly manicured gardens with fountains at their core can be found in riads and across town – perfect oasis in the middle of all the hustle and bustle.

Outside the tight confines of the medina, large and busy commercial streets and roundabouts buzz with tooting mopeds, horses, carts and hurried pedestrians.

Street stalls are aplenty here too and besides the ubiquitous oranges, look for a pomegranate seller who’ll freshly squeeze a few into an addictive sweet and tart thirst quencher.

Make your way to the Kasbah Mosque to reach your next stop located just beside it: The Saadian Tombs – one of most coveted archeological sites in Morocco.

The royal necropolis was kept deliberately hidden and sealed off for centuries and was finally uncovered in 1917 through aerial photography. It is here that lie the remains of important figures from the Saadi Dynasty, which ruled Morocco from 1549 to 1659. You’ll enter through a narrow passage which leads to an enclosed garden with embellished graves covered in colorful tiles.

Chambers for what were certainly the VIPs of the time are accessed through exquisitely hand carved doorways, the artistry and craftmanship of which can only be admired in a state of utmost awe.

The two magnificent mausoleums on site though are the real reason you’re here. These ‘no expense spared’ showing of riches hint at the lavish status of their occupants.

The older mausoleum houses the remains of the dynasty’s founder and Sultan Ahmed el Mansour’s parents.

Make sure to raise your head up and take in the ceilings too which are as ornate as the arches.

The main mausoleum, which contains the body of the Sultan, is the real showstopper. Also called “the Hall of Twelve Columns”, it was built from imported Italian Carrara marble, with gilding honeycomb muqarnas, a type of ornamented vaulting, decorated with gold. 

The Sultan shares this absolutely stunning work of art with some of his closest family members and descendants. In total, the Saadian Tombs house over 66 princes and other prominent figures as well as over 100 chancellors and their wives, each resting in proximity to the Sultan relative to his or her status. It’s a marvelous sight and depiction of beauty you absolutely cannot miss.

Follow the high ramparts near Place des Ferblantiers to reach another fascinating piece in the puzzle of the Saadi Dynasty.

The entrance to El Badi Palace through a series of former bathhouses (hammams) clearly shows that you’ll have to use your imagination here to picture the splendors of Sultan Ahmad al-Mansur’s residence (from the Saadian Tombs you just visited).

Meaning “the incomparable”, El Badi was once the most splendid building in the entire city although it is today only a shadow of its former glory.

Once you step into the enormous courtyard, you get a better feel for the royal residence which took approximately 25 years to build and is thought to have included no fewer than 360 rooms in addition to the courtyard with several pavilions and a large pool.

Similar to the Saadian Tombs, the palace was once decked out in the most expensive materials of the era, from Sudanese gold and Italian Carrara marble to onyx and ivory. When the Saadi Dynasty fell, it apparently took the conqueror a decade to strip the palace of all its treasures and reduce it to a ruin.

Today you can still admire the sandstone shell and the impressive scale, especially when you stand in the middle of the courtyard and do a 360.

Don’t miss the flight of stairs in one corner of the courtyard which will take you up to the ramparts for a stunning panoramic view of El Badi Palace. It’s much better to marvel at the oasis from above, taking in the 295 feet / 90 meters length of the pool and the four sunken orange orchards.

Turn around and you’ll have the Marrakech skyline in full view.

Time to leave the past behind and check out the modern side of Marrakech. Jump in a cab (you can also walk but we were hungry!) and head northwest to Gueliz (the new town) which was built by the French when Morocco was a protectorate between 1912 and 1956. Here the streets are wider, the restaurants and shops contemporary, and there’s a vibrant art gallery scene in art deco buildings.

Grab lunch at Le Kilim, a stylish and crimson-clad recent addition to the neighborhood with a pleasant wraparound terrace.

Since it’s the sister restaurant of famous Nomad, Le Jardin and Café Des Épices in the medina, you can expect the same level of vibrant mix of Moroccan cuisine with international flair.

Although the medina is the best place to shop for rugs and crafts in general, the sheer number of them can be intimidating to first-time visitors. Gueliz has a number of wonderfully curated little boutiques that make browsing a lot more enjoyable and showcases some of the more modern designs.

You’ll also find the neighborhood to be a lot more relaxed than the rest of the city (a certain French laissez-faire perhaps?) which means sipping a cold beer or a nice glass of wine is much easier. Cramped and totally charming, Le 68 is the wine bar you want to drop by for a glass of Moroccan or international wine and perhaps a charcuterie plate.

Hop to the next neighborhood east of here to immerse yourself into the life of one of the greatest fashion designers: Yves Saint Laurent. While very much associated with Parisian haute couture, he spent most of his time in Morocco.

The hugely popular Musée Yves Saint Laurent opened in 2017 and is one of the city’s only examples of contemporary architecture. Unfortunately closed due to COVID, we could still marvel at the striking brick design on the façade, meant to evoke the texture of woven fabric.

Next door, you’ll find the entrance to the Majorelle Gardens, a haven of peace and colors that was acquired and restored by the French designer in 1980.

Designed by famed French painter Jacques Majorelle over nearly four decades (1920s-1960s), the expansive gardens are filled with an impressive collection of exotic species of plants and unique trees collected during his numerous travels.

Each one is carefully displayed to emphasize its singular beauty. Everywhere you look you catch a perfectly harmonious tableau telling you clearly that you’re not in a botanical garden but in an artist’s home!

Pools, streams and fountains add to the charm as well as the numerous birds you’ll hear chirping.

The artist’s studio, painted in the now iconic electric ‘Majorelle blue’, is also home to the Berber Museum and is where you’ll find a boutique to splurge on fashion accessories.

Colors like these are sure to make you smile, even on the dreariest days and might make you reconsider your love of neutrals…at least for some backyard inspo.

After such a busy day, the apex of happiness in Marrakech is retiring to the tranquility of a rooftop restaurant for the evening. There are many elevated perch throughout the city but one not to be missed is the terrace of the boutique hotel El Fenn. The luxury bohemian riad right inside the Medina is one of Marrakech’s most stylish and you surely will recognize some of its widely photographed interiors as you make your way to the top…

From a few stories up, the magnificent rooftop welcomes you with views as far as the Atlas Mountains, a close up of the Koutoubia Mosque, and a glimpse at a thousand rooftop patios and courtyards all around.

Make sure you time your dinner reservation to be here for the sunset spectacle and settle comfortably into one of the oversize banquettes with a bottle of rosé. Once again, drowning yourself in pink seems like the only acceptable way to finish the day and welcome a very special evening.

The daily-changing menu is based on what’s in season from El Fenn’s organic garden suppliers so starting with the salad sampler is a wise choice here for refreshing and deep flavors.

Main courses are a mix of modern Mediterranean and Moroccan fare – hearty and perfect complement to that bottle of rosé that is undoubtedly emptying at an alarming rate.

Refined sweets under the stars put an end to the feast but not the enchanting night which must continue at one of the bars.

The splashes of cherry red are even more dramatic against the dark sky and you’ll find it hard to leave such a vibrant ‘garden party’ as you sip one last cocktail comfortably slumped over a pile of cushions.

Slowly make your way down to see an entirely new side of the Riad. Few things say “Marrakech” quite so evocatively as the soft glow and dancing shadows from beautifully ornate lanterns, and tonight they are magnificent. Intimate corners appear everywhere, inviting you for yet one more chat or a quiet moment of contemplation.

A sensually lit courtyard with a marble fountain indicates you’ve arrived on the ground floor and slows you down some more. Maybe one last drink?

When you finally emerge on the streets of the medina, the magic has not yet left the building and it’s under a multicolor glow that you make your home home, still in a trance…

Visiting Morocco’s “Jewel of the South” (as Marrakech is often referred to) is bound to profoundly move you whether or not you’ve travelled to other exotic locales before. It’s one of those places that will permanently reside within your fondest travel memories, vignettes popping out years after you’ve returned filled with jeweled colored alleys and vivid smells of spices simmering. Marrakech’s old town, the Medina, is its beating heart and throwing yourself into its enchanting and disorienting chaos is one of life’s greatest adventures…

Think of the medina as a living historic town enclosed by over 19km of fortified walls punctuated with gates. Once you’re inside, it can look like the most confusing labyrinth of narrow alleys snaking their way into every direction and often not appearing on any Google maps… Leave your phone behind and embrace the twists and turns that will inevitably lead you to treasures and surprising discoveries.

Your eyes find the first bearing, a common thread of pinkish colors emanating from the walls all made from a coral-colored clay. This warm hue gave Marrakech its nickname of “The Red City” and is the most fitting backdrop to all the vivid tones displayed within its center.

From stalls in the souks to fancier retail stores, shopping is the lifeblood of the medina and everyone comes here to find pieces to bring home they’ll treasure forever. The artisan trade is thriving, whether you’re looking for a traditional handcrafted pillow cover or contemporary ceramic dinnerware. The hardest part will be to note where you’ve seen something you liked and be able to find it later once you’ve made up your mind…

Buying a traditional Moroccan rug in Marrakech is a rite of passage and is at once daunting and very enjoyable. Be ready to dedicate a few hours at least to the task and have a slight idea of the look and colors you’re looking for. With dozens of Berber tribes each with its own style, no two rugs are alike and the indecisive will live through a mild torture watching hundreds of rugs being laid out at their feet. I brought home two that were instant crush though not everyone is that lucky. 🙂

Every once in a while, the cramped alley you’re following opens up to a bustling open air market such as the cheery Place des Épices.

If you’ve built up an appetite, right around the corner is the lovely Moroccan fusion restaurant L’mida.

Perch yourself up on their beautiful emerald green roof terrace for expansive views over the medina.

Then tuck into modern takes on Moroccan classics.

You’re in the center of the medina now where alleys get narrower, more secretive. It’s easy to follow in the footsteps of the locals who always seem in a hurry (perhaps because they know exactly where they’re heading!) but these tiny alleys are calling for you to really slow down…

Otherwise, you’d be missing out on all the gorgeously carved wooden and metal doors on either sides and around every bend. They’re the only adorned portion of the high walls encircling you and give out nothing as to the treasures they hide. Is it a riad? A handwoven rug shop? An exclusive gallery? Or a private residence?

There’s rarely any posters or murals – the ancient walls are the real artwork showing layers of history if you take a moment to lift your gaze up.

Well hidden behind those walls, Le Jardin Marrakech welcomes you like an oasis in the driest of deserts. Its breezy green decor, vegetables on display, and abundance of plants make it one of the most soothing lunch spots around.

Settle in the courtyard of this 60s styled riad and relax to the sound of birds chirping all around – you will immediately forget about the hectic pace beyond its walls.

The menu blends Moroccan and Western dishes and especially shines in the vegetarian department, showcasing refreshing and colorful local produce.

Revived, continue your contemplative walk, passing through iconic arched keyhole doorways typical of Moroccan architecture.

By now the color palette should have really grown on you and seeing “La Vie en Rose” is only one of the many memories of Marrakech that’ll really stick with you. I should know – one of the first thing I did upon returning home is paint one of my rooms with the aptly named “36 hours in Marrakech” color from Backdrop. It is stunning and immediately brings me back within the walls of the medina.

More colors await in the spices and tea shops, their bulk dried petals emitting a faint perfume in the air…while the tanners across the way boil wool and cotton to turn into vibrant scarfs, rugs, and bags.

Textiles and woven fabric seem to be everywhere, but eventually as you approach the heart of the medina under the covered alleys, you’ll hit the souk filled with antiques and brass metals. The intricate metal lanterns are absolutely gorgeous and definitely worth bringing home.

When you reach the Souk Cherifia, a sort of mini-mall with designer shops featuring modern takes on traditional clothing and accessories, make sure you go up to find the door to the open-air restaurant La Terrasse des Épices.

The inviting rooftop terrace is so comfortable you might find yourself whiling away the rest of the afternoon – no one will blame you!

You can watch the action from above nibbling on some light fare or a full meal if you wish.

Going the sweet route is a great way to break the day here as they have their own patisserie downstairs. We shared a plate of buttery Moroccan pastries with a pot of sweet mint tea – perfect midday break. Although if you need to take the edge off the hustle and bustle, know that it’s one of the few places in the medina that serves alcohol so it gets really popular at sundown for a glass of rosé or draft beer.

Which one to choose… horns of gazelle, almond pasta, briouates with honey, shortbread…

Once you make your way down south (your cardinal points are probably all jumbled by now) the medina will literally spit you out into the wide expanse of the famous Jemaa El Fna square. This is THE gathering place at the heart of the city and if you stand in one place long enough, you should witness the entire spectrum of life in Marrakech from sun up to sundown. Snake charmers, monkey trainers, Berber musicians, dancers, poets and tooth-pullers all compete for your attention while the smell of sizzling meats coming from the food stalls at night set the stage for a memorable evening.

Grab a few snacks to munch on while you take it all in. We were fixated on all the olives that glistened like jewels in heaping, colorful piles.

Come dinnertime, retreat inside the walls of the wonderful Dar Cherifa, an intimate and homey restaurant set within one of the oldest Riads in Marrakech.

Tables are few and generously spaced, candles provide a romantic glow, water fountains gurgle in the background…the clamour of the medina suddenly feels world away.

Lovingly restored, the splendors of this 16th century mansion are still on full display today, from the extraordinary carved cedar wood paneling to the tiles adorning the four internal façade walls.

Intimate nooks provide a serene and almost private dining experience.

The cuisine is as comforting as the setting with a simple à la carte menu of traditional Moroccan dishes.

Their specialty is tanjias which are couscous-laden stews and a must after a long day of nonstop walking around the souks.

Whether day or night, you’re sure to see plenty of cats around roaming the streets, sleeping in shops, guarding restaurants doors…

Another great dinner option is Le Trou au Mur (Hole in the Wall). A bit hard to find, once you locate the tiny door in a nondescript alley you’ll be glad you dropped by this upscale restaurant with a unique decor.

The traditional zigzag patterned, black-and-white tiled floor, funky chairs and gorgeous paintings on the walls kept catching my eyes all evening.

The concept is unique and the food unlike what you would have seen elsewhere. The menu is inspired by family-style recipes handed down over many years and gives them a modern twist with a refined presentation. It’s a peek into the world of Moroccan home-style cooking rarely seen outside private homes, packed with strong flavors and fresh ingredients.

Homemade ice cream and sorbet with flavors of strawberry and anis, chili chocolate, Ral al Hanout and almond pastilla was an ending as flavorful as the entire meal.

The medina at night is in sharp contrast to its daytime version. With everyone retreated behind closed doors, stalls stashed away, colors washed out under the moonlight, it’s a muted though no less enchanting labyrinth to take one last stroll in (and for once you don’t have to constantly make way for tooting mopeds!).

Nights in Marrakech always end in a sumptuous ‘palace’ as few cities boast as many glamourous and storied accommodations. From grand hotels literally fit for a king like the Royal Mansour to the hundreds of traditional riads renovated by international designers, you’re guaranteed to have a wonderful guesthouse experience. We checked in to Riad New Moon, a serene and tastefully decorated riad right in the medina.

The seven-room guesthouse has lounges where breakfast is served every morning and all the modern amenities you need while maintaining its traditional charm.

Wrought-iron balustrades set around a leafy courtyard and the predominance of black and white is very chic and cooling after the riots of colors from the streets right outside.

And of course there’s a sunny rooftop terrace with loungers to rest in between shopping sprees.

All seven rooms are individually decorated with local handiwork and keeping with the soothing neutral palette.

Alas, like everywhere else, the medina is looking very different these days. I was actually there right when the COVID-19 lockdown started so got to see both sides and the empty medina is as sad a sight as you can imagine.

Thinking hard about all those wonderful and hospitable artisans, restaurateurs and shopkeepers who keep the heart of Marrakech beating. I promise I will be back as I truly fell for this magical red city. In the meantime, if you want to have a piece of Morocco home and help support local artisans, you can shop on Chabi-Chic: they have amazing local goods and are helping small businesses through their “Save The Medina” campaign by selling their gifts online (and they ship internationally too).