London Restaurants

Medlar, London

June 19, 2013

Medlar - Dining room

Getting to Medlar is a bit of an undertaking. Not because it’s down a tiny unknown alley far from civilization, but because it’s right on King’s Road in Chelsea, just not the part you’d usually venture to. We walked right past it in the pouring rain without ever noticing it was there since the area is deserted of any fine dining establishments (which abound a mile further east on the same road).

Nevertheless, my soaked self was glad to finally find the recently awarded Michelin restaurant and its elegant ambiance, ready to impress us with their inventive creations. Medlar quietly appeared on the London food scene a little over two years ago yet very few people seem to know its existence – I reckon the Michelin recognition will soon change that. The uber positive reviews highlight the flawless execution of the dishes, excellent service and incredible value for such an elevated meal which I can wholeheartedly vouch for. The menu is Prix Fixe only with lunch going for £26 during weekdays and £30 in the weekends and dinner for £42 (all 3-course) and the portions are quite generous which makes it an incredible deal.

The cooking at Medlar is classic French with modern British flair which means it’s hearty and immaculately presented. The constantly changing menu keeps pushing a bit further their creativity so it’s a place you’ll want to revisit again and again to see what they’ve come up with. One of their most popular dish – an egg tart with duck hearts – has been featured on quite a few of London’s ‘best dish lists’ and is likely to be on the menu when you go though the overwhelming choice of their appetizers alone will leave you panting in indecisiveness. Whatever you pick will make you feel special somehow, and pretty full by the end of it!

Thinly sliced confit lamb with salsa verde, artichokes, green beans and frisée
Medlar - Confit Lamb

Duck egg tart with red wine sauce, turnip puree, lardons and sautéed duck heart
Medlar - Duck egg tart

Under blade fillet with Café de Paris snails, salad, triple cooked chips and béarnaise
Medlar - Under blade fillet

Chargrilled red mullet with San Marzano tomato tart fine, smoked mackerel, aubergine caviar and salmoriglio
Medlar - Red Mullet

Cardamom custard with saffron oranges, pomegranate and langues de chat
Medlar - Cardamom custard

Raspberry sorbet with white chocolate and macadamia cookies
Medlar - Raspberry sorbet

Rhubarb and prosecco jelly with ginger granita and blood orange sorbet
Medlar - Rhubarb and prosecco jelly

If you can manage any more food or wish to trade in one of your desserts for a supplement, the cheeseboard is out of this world and will remind you of fancy restaurants in France – we didn’t get that far unfortunately but our neighbors did!
Medlar - Cheese cart

Medlar
438 King’s Road,
London. SW10 0LJ
T: 0207 349 1900
map

 
Appetizer Recipes Vegetarian

Fennel Salad with Strawberries and Feta

June 15, 2013

Fennel and Strawberry Salad

One of the great things about early summer days is the immediate effect the warmer weather has on our diet – an intrinsic need to cleanse and detox our bodies. Seeing all the gorgeous and colorful new produce at the farmers markets makes us yearn for crisp salads and sweet, juicy fruits which there seem to be infinite variations of. June is especially abundant with short lived favorites such as rhubarb, asparagus, and insanely flavorful strawberries and you should make the most of them right about now.

Strawberries are on most people’s favorite fruit list and this time of year you really don’t need anything else to enjoy them fully since they’re so sweet. I like them so much I keep on trying to incorporate them into every meal which is why I thought that Fennel, Strawberry and Feta Salad was perfectly suited. It’s a lovely summer salad and although I know some of you reject the thought of any fruit near your greens, I can tell you this refreshing and seasonal version is the best way to jump in.

The crunch of the thinly shaved fennel, the softness of the strawberries and the salty Feta cheese are full of unexpected flavors and textures and make one of those sweet savory combos that barely needs any dressing. A few drops of a fresh raspberry vinaigrette is all you need to round it up and produce a real feast for the eyes as much as for the palate.

Divider

Fennel Salad with Strawberries and Feta

 

Recipe fromLa diète Scandinave
Active time: 20 minutes
Total time: 50 minutes
Makes 4 servings
 
1 fennel bulb
¾ cup strawberries
¾ cup feta cheese
½ cup raspberries
2 tablespoons raspberry vinegar

Divider

Thinly slice the fennel with a mandoline. Soak the slices in a bowl of cold water for 30 minutes to let them curl slightly. Drain them well.

Fennel

Cut strawberries in half (or slice them if they’re big) and mix them carefully with the fennel. Make the dressing by mixing well the raspberries with the vinegar.

Raspberry Dressing

Place the salad on plates, crumble the feta over it and drizzle with the dressing.

Fennel and Strawberry Salad

Fennel and Strawberry Salad

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London Restaurants

Upstairs at The Ten Bells, London

June 10, 2013

Upstairs at the Ten Bells

The Ten Bells in East London no longer needs an introduction as the crowds spilling onto the sidewalk every night can attest. The busy pub opposite Spitalfields Market has attracted thirsty shoppers and locals since the mid 18th century with its unique Victorian décor and strong ties with ‘Jack the Riper’ who supposedly met two of his victims here. Whether you like your booze with a dark side of history or appreciate a lively ambiance, it’s an authentic stop in an ever so hip neighborhood.

Upstairs at the Ten Bells - Crowd

What a lot of these boozers don’t know though is the treasure that hides right above their head. I’m talking about The Ten Bells’ first floor restaurant, aptly named ‘Upstairs at The Ten Bells’, which is currently one of the best gastro pubs in the city. Once you’ve climbed up the staircase at the back of the pub, you’ll find yourself in a most charming Victorian dining room filled with mismatched rustic wood tables, chandeliers, and…some pretty funny work of art.

Upstairs at the Ten Bells - Painting

What used to be only a temporary pop-up restaurant by a collective of chefs called the Young Turks became so popular it is now a permanent fixture. Although the majority of the original founders have gone, the kitchen is still churning out stunning dishes to everyone’s delight with tables booked well in advance. A meal here is an elegant affair in a chilled setting, much like at another favorite of mine, the Corner Room, and you’ll find an incredible value for money especially in this neighborhood. Evenings are adorned by candlelight and the list of expertly crafted cocktails begs you to start and end your night with one of their tasty concoctions.

Upstairs at the Ten Bells - Cocktail

While I rarely deem a bread basket worth mentioning, here you’re welcomed as soon as you sit down with a few slices of home made and still warm bread which I still remember today… definitely an excellent start to the night.

Upstairs at the Ten Bells - Bread

The menu changes weekly and features creative British seasonal fare which has hit the right notes throughout the whole meal. The winners were the breaded aubergine (offered as a snack) and the roasted leg of lamb…which probably won’t be offered when you go but you’ll have something equally delish!

Fried Cuttlefish, Jersey Royals, Red Peppers and Lovage
Upstairs at the Ten Bells - Cuttlefish

Breaded Aubergine, Sweet and Sour Caper, Walnut & Parmesan
Upstairs at the Ten Bells - Fried Eggplants

Roasted Leg of Lamb, Cockles, Artichokes, Confit Tomatoes & Laverbread
Upstairs at the Ten Bells - Lamb

Porchetta, Fregola Sarda, Peas, Gem Lettuce & Roast Onion
Upstairs at the Ten Bells - Porchetta

Cheesecake, Peanut Crumble & Loquats
Upstairs at the Ten Bells - Cheesecake

Upstairs at The Ten Bells
84 Commercial St,
London
T: +44 20 7366 1721
map

 

Dessert Recipes

Mille-Feuille

June 6, 2013

Mille-Feuille

French pastries are undeniably elegant and salivating though often off limit for unseasoned bakers. Finding one you can enjoy with little effort at home like this mille-feuille is therefore a real treat …and potentially dangerous for your waistline! While you might know it better under its other name of ‘Napoleon’, the mille-feuille (which translates into ‘thousand leaves’) is a fairly popular dessert consisting of 3 layers of puff pastry separated by layers of cream or jam.

You’ve probably had various renditions from the soft and super sweet store bought varieties to fancy specimen at restaurants but let me tell you that the homemade version is pretty terrific. Freshness is key to getting that perfect contrast between the crispy pastry layers and soft custard filling so you’ll want to eat it straight away which I don’t think anyone will have a problem with!

For the pastry, if you have a lot of time on your hands you can always do it yourself (there are tons of puff pastry recipes on the web) but honestly the store-bought variety will do just fine here and will make this dessert as easy as can be. A few simple steps of baking the pastry, preparing the vanilla cream, and mounting it all are incredibly easy and quite enjoyable so you definitely won’t feel as if you’re slaving in the kitchen. Once you’ve gotten your 3 rectangles of pastry layered with the thick custard, just dust the top with powdered sugar for a simple but sophisticated dessert. There’s no need for the familiar marbled icing here especially in the summer and you’ll appreciate even more each bites of buttery flakes mixed with cool custard…

Mille-Feuille

 
Recipe from Elle a Table
Active time: 35 minutes
Total time: 1h15
Makes 4-6 servings

 

200g puff pastry dough
100g powdered sugar
1 cup whole milk
80g sugar
20g all purpose flour
2 egg yolks
1 tablespoon cornstarch

Generously dust the work surface with powdered sugar. Lay the dough on top and cover with more powdered sugar. Roll the dough into a thin rectangle (about ¼ inch).

Mille-Feuille Dough

Lay the dough over a sheet of wax or parchment paper in a baking sheet and cover with another sheet of paper. Put a grill over it to weight it down (I use a cooling rack grill) and put in a preheated oven at 350ºF for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, get the vanilla cream ready: whisk the egg yolks with the sugar until light in color, then add the flour and cornstarch (and any flavoring you’d like such as cacao, liquors, etc.). Bring the milk to a boil in a small saucepan and pour over the yolk and sugar mixture. Mix well. Pour back the mixture in the saucepan and heat over low heat for 8 minutes while stirring constantly.

Vanilla Cream

Take the dough out of the oven and let it cool down. Cut the uneven sides with a serrated knife to make your rectangle ‘straight’ then cut the dough into 3 equal parts.

Mille-Feuille Flaky Layers

Cover two parts with the vanilla cream…

Mille-Feuille - Building

and build your mille-feuille by stacking up all 3 parts.

Mille-Feuille - Stacking

Generously dust with powdered sugar and eat immediately to keep the dough crusty.

Mille-Feuille

Mille-Feuille

Mille-Feuille

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New York Restaurants

Runner & Stone, Brooklyn

June 2, 2013

Brooklyn

Once a stretch of industrial land mostly famous for its polluted canal, the Gowanus neighborhood in Brooklyn is slowly turning into a dining destination to everyone’s surprise. The latest addition to Gowanus’ ‘restaurant row’ (essentially a few blocks on Third Avenue) is Runner & Stone who joins the foodie-loved The Pines and Littleneck across the street. The New American bakery-restaurant from vets of Blue Ribbon and Per Se serves seasonal cuisine with killer housemade breads so you get great and modern sit-down dining with all the intoxicating smells of a bakery – wonderful!

You can’t miss the display of the day’s freshly baked goodies as they proudly sit behind glass as you enter the restaurant. Loads of crusty breads, croissants, pretzels, and sweet pastries are available for takeout but you’ll want to find a seat in the bright restaurant and enjoy a fine meal.

Runner & Stone - New York

While I have yet to try their dinner menu which looks scrumptious, the brunch seemed a good place to start with all those baked goods on offer. Many dishes come with a warm baguette or ciabatta fresh out of the oven and if you have some room you can always have a sweet for dessert or on your way home…

House-made sausage and two eggs any style served with potato hash and toasted baguette

Eggs Benedict over fish cake wrapped in pancetta
Eggs Benedict over fish cake wrapped in pancetta

Freshly baked bread and pastries, and a cannelé to take home!

I love the concept and as the neighborhood is just shaping up things are looking extremely good for Gowanus. While there isn’t much to do around yet to make it worth a trek from Manhattan, if you love your food you’ll definitely have a tasty and out of the ordinary night.

Runner & Stone
285 Third Avenue (between President and Carroll streets)
Brooklyn
T: 718-576-3360
map