Blog - Flying Fourchette

Leek and Feta Tart

September 10, 2014

Summer might be coming to an end for most of us but there are still a few leisurely weekend lunches to be had. I’ve always been partial to the sort of picnic food that’s best enjoyed at room temperature and find the spread of French style salads and tarts ideal for enjoying the last few warm rays, casually nibbling on light fare.

Usually seen in the form of a quiche, the pairing of tender leeks and crumbled feta cheese is here given a Scandinavian treatment and encased instead in a delightfully crunchy and healthy rye-based crust. You can use any shape of tart pan, but I think a rectangular one looks more dashing…

The humble leek is star of the show here and cooks down to form a wonderful filling with the feta and fresh cheeses, the thyme adding a subtle fresh note. This makes for a lovely picnic or light lunch served with a salad, and is healthier than most other versions with no use of cream – the low fat cheese being the secret behind the tasty crust as well as the gooey filling.

Leeks and Feta Tart

Recipe from La diète scandinave
Active time: 45 minutes
Total time: 2 hours
Makes 4 servings

½ cup (75g) whole wheat flour
1 1/8 cup (175g) rye flour
1 teaspoon fleur de sel
¹⁄3 cup (75g) butter
½ cup (125g) fromage blanc or cottage cheese

Filling
5 thin leeks, sliced
1 teaspoon fleur de sel
4 eggs
²⁄3 cup (150g) fromage blanc or cottage cheese
1 ½ cup (150g) feta
1 tablespoon fresh thyme, finely chopped
Salt and pepper

Prepare the dough: Sift both flours and salt over a large mixing bowl and incorporate the butter with your fingertips.

Add the cheese to the dough and knead for a few minutes, adding a little bit of water until you reach the desired consistency. Let it rest for 30 minutes in the refrigerator.

Preheat the oven to 350ºF (180ºC). Roll the dough to cover a tart pan of 9 inches (24cm) diameter.

Cover with parchment paper and dried beans or weights or rice. Put into the oven and pre-bake for 15 minutes. Remove the beans/weights and paper and return to the oven for 5 minutes more.

Carefully wash the leeks and cook them in a sauteed pan filled with a little bit of salted water for about 10 minutes. Drain well.

Beat the eggs in a mixing bowl. Add the cheeses, thyme, and leeks and mix well. Add the mixture to the tart shell.

Put back into the oven for 30 minutes. Serve the tart at room temperature with a green salad.

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London Restaurants

Lima Floral, London

September 2, 2014

Opened only a few weeks ago, LIMA Floral is already proving to be a huge success which isn’t surprising considering the pedigree of its sister restaurant LIMA – the first Peruvian restaurant in Europe to be awarded a Michelin star last year. While the two restaurants share the same creators, LIMA Floral (named after its cute, central location on Floral Street in Covent Garden) has a different look and menu and fans of the original LIMA will appreciate the large, colorful room and ambitious food served here.

They’ve put a lot of fun into this new project and it shows, from the vibrant wall mural to the never seen before food combinations (purple potato and coffee in a dessert? Yes!!). They clearly want customers to discover new flavours by presenting a slightly more challenging Peruvian cuisine and it works brilliantly.

Start off the night with some of their tasty cocktails – they’re as equally creative as the food and far too easy to drink! I had a Maracuya which is a mix of passion fruit, pisco, lime and egg whites, the perfect aperitif to set the tone of the evening right. Next came the starters and main dishes, all delicious but there were clear winners.

The fish wins in the starter category (the sea bream ceviche is a must order and will likely be recommended by your waiter) and the meat is the way to go for the main dishes, the lamb being particularly scrumptious and so is the seared beef. The Escabeche salad left us a bit unimpressed I must say. Make sure you save space for the desserts as they are anything but traditional and the odd ingredients made them especially fun to eat. I would come back here again and again to see what else they come up with, definitely one of the best Peruvian experience you can wish for!

Purple corn and herb bread

Sea Bream Ceviche: Sea Bream. Tiger’s Milk. Avocado. Crispy Onions. Cancha Corn.

Escabeche Salad: Beef Crudo. Algarrobo Syrup. Warm Escabeche Dressing. Green Salad.

Organic Lamb: Lamb Rump. Eco Dry Potato. Queso Fresco. Black Quinoa. Crispy Blue Potato.

Grilled Monkfish: Yellow Chili Pepper. Courgette. Green & Red Tiger’s Milk. Green Leaves.

Beef Sudado: Seared Entrecote. Coriander. Heritage Tomato. White Quinoa.

Suspiro Ardiente: Dulce de Leche. Beetroot. Dry Limo Chili Pepper.

Cafe Peruano: Purple Potato. Coffee Ice Cream. Red Kiwicha.

LIMA Floral
14 Garrick St.
London WC2E 9BJTel: +44 20 7240 5778
Map

New York Restaurants

The Elm, Brooklyn

August 27, 2014

Talked-about hotel restaurants are becoming the norm in Manhattan (The Nomad, The Standard Grill, etc,) though not so much across the East River where the little mom-and-pop places are the main reason people flock to Brooklyn. The trendy McCarren Hotel & Pool in the heart of Williamsburg is trying to change that with an ambitious offering for the neighborhood in the shape of The Elm.

The high-ceilinged atrium in the hotel’s basement seems a bit odd at first with its upscale setting of metal, wood and plants – probably one of the only restaurants in Brooklyn without a brick wall, rustic stools, and industrial lighting. It’s soothing though and the open kitchen is an exciting sight, showcasing the tight execution required to plate such artistic fares from the Michelin Star Chef’s ‘modern French’ menu.

Broken down by raw, sea, land and shared dishes, the ingredient-driven menu is impressive and even more so is the presentation. The visually pleasing plates were equally palatable and creative in their composition, the Chef having succeeded in bringing an accessible luxury dining experience to Brooklyn. The crowds have yet to follow though as seen by the inexplicably half-empty room on a Thursday night. It might indicate the odd fit on that culinary stretch of hipster eateries but for you it means exciting cuisine that would have you waiting in line back in the city – so enjoy this momentary lull while you can.

Summer Tempura, Vegetables, Nori Aïoli

Ocean Trout with Burrata, Trout Roe, Olio Verde

Foie Gras, Apricot, Peanut, Orange Blossom

Garden – Morels, Asparagus, White Beans Risotto

The Elm Burger – Tomato Confit, Brooklyn Beer White Cheddar

The Elm
160 N 12th St.
Brooklyn, NY 11249
T: (718) 218-7500
Map

Appetizer Recipes Side dish Vegetarian

Thai-Style Radish and Watermelon Salad

August 21, 2014

Watermelon is by far the most refreshing of fruit, and even though we haven’t had the scorching season we usually do, it just wouldn’t be summer without ingesting a massive quantity of the pink-fleshed crowd-pleaser. Like everyone else I adore it simply on its own as a snack, but its surprising versatility makes it equally suitable to a wide variety of dishes from sweet to savory.

The latest trend has seen watermelon salads popping up in just about every restaurant, usually mixed with some greens and white cheese – the perfect excuse to justify eating the sweet fruit as a main meal. I was intrigued by this Asian version, reminding me of my recent trip to Laos, full of freshness and spiciness at the same time.

The sweet and savory salad is bursting with textures and flavors, combining juicy morsels of refreshing watermelon with the crunchy and peppery bite of radishes. The subtle anise flavor of the Thai basil, the fresh mint, the Asian fish sauce, and the fresh chiles make for an original dressing with a serious kick. A spicy yet refreshing salad that will have you converted in no time, and the color palette makes it even more enticing.

Thai-Style Radish and Watermelon Salad

Recipe from Food and Wine magazine
Active time: 30 min.
Total time: 30 min.
Makes 8-10 servings

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon Asian fish sauce
1 tablespoon sambal oelek or other Asian chile sauce
2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger
Kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper
One 5-pound watermelon—rind and seeds removed, flesh cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks (8 cups)
12 radishes, very thinly sliced
8 scallions, thinly sliced
2 fresh hot red chiles, such as Holland or cayenne, thinly sliced crosswise
3/4 cup lightly packed mint leaves, coarsely chopped
3/4 cup lightly packed Thai basil leaves, torn

In a large bowl, whisk the lime juice, fish sauce, sambal oelek and ginger. Season with salt and pepper.

Add the watermelon, radishes, scallions and red chiles and toss.

Fold in the mint and basil, season with salt and pepper and serve right away.

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New York Restaurants

Navy, New York

August 14, 2014

Like most New Yorkers who have opted to spend their summer in the city, I have to compete with my friends’ awesome pictures of seafaring adventures and coastal perfectness from Cape Cod all the way to Montauk. There are the usual rooftop bars and docked boats that can constitute a decent enough background in the city, but I feel I found the perfect spot in a little and extremely cool Soho restaurant called Navy.

The looks alone can compete with the best of the Hamptons with a carefully put together maritime concept blending industrial décor with the nostalgia of an old-school portside café. The space feels casual, comfortable, and at the same time really stylish which is hard to pull off and one of the reasons it has attracted the hip and local crowd for a while.

The same can be said of the food which at first is seen as basic and comforting but reveals innovative touches and superb quality. Unsurprisingly fish-focused with a heavy accent on vegetables, the menu from former Top Chef contestant Camille Becerra is rooted in her healthy philosophy with sustainable cooking and very fresh, whole foods at the center of every dish.

I went for lunch which presents simpler fare and was in love with both my charming surroundings and the wonderfully fresh and light food which made me leave happy but not heavy…a blessing in the summer! While there are no seafront views here, Navy is the closest to feeling like you’re on the coast, and you’ll want to drop in every so often to check the always changing menu. A true gem and moving up my faves list!

Avocado toast with radishes, herbs, pickle. So good it’s even on a hot list right now.