The mountainous isle of Capri is a top rated holiday destination for worldwide travelers and few islands can rival with its glamorous image. Most arrive from Naples or Sorrento by ferry with either a few hours or a few days to spend in this enchanting destination whose impressive limestone rock soars from the Tyrrhenian Sea.

Famed for its unparalleled scenery and sea views, Capri is all about heights as you’ll notice as soon as you reach the harbor.

All ferries arrive at the port of Marina Grande which is usually overrun by daytrippers (more than 20,000 on average in the high season!). With its tacky souvenir shops and cheap restaurants with touristy menus, this is not the Capri you came to see and you should start making your way up now.

The island really has two communities so you have your pick of starting your day either in Capri town for expensive shopping or Anacapri for a quieter morning. We hopped on the bus to the latter which is situated on a plateau above Capri. From there you can take the chairlift up to the top of Monte Solaro, the highest point of Capri.

The 12-minute ride up offers plenty of panoramic photo opportunities and confirmation of the island’s scenic charm.

Once at the summit, you get a good view of Capri’s wilder side and natural beauty.

Giant cliffs hide secret coves and sea caves, tiny rocky beaches are only accessible by boats, villas peak out from underneath the luxurious foliage, and then there’s the bluest of sea… No wonder this is a dream honeymoon destination.

You can opt to walk down or take the chairlift again back to Anacapri which has a quaint little old center. Take some time to wander around a few historical buildings such as the cathedral and a number of imperial roman villas worth checking out before venturing into the slightly crazier part of the island.

View from Anacapri of Marina Grande and the surroundings of Capri

You can take a public bus to get to the center of Capri town but the ‘proper’ way to experience the island is to hail one of the iconic convertible taxis, put on your sunglasses and let your hair loose in the breeze feeling every little bit like Jacky O in the 1950s. While it sits lower than Anacapri, the town of Capri still offers breathtaking views especially along its circular path which goes up and around the south side of the island.

Most of Capri town is only accessible by foot so wear comfortable shoes and be ready for a bit of a hike as you explore the narrow lanes, passing magnificent villas and gardens fit for celebrities.

Heading uphill from Capri town towards the Arco Naturale (signposted) will lead you straight to the off-the-beaten path and must-try restaurant Le Grottelle.

The views alone from the terrace are worth the little trek to get there and while you won’t feast on fancy, Michelin star grub, the simple and authentic food served here is the perfect accompaniment to the impressive scenery.

Simple dishes such as a tomato salad are something else with the island’s sun-ripened tomatoes and the peppery basil that grows on its terraces.

Spaghetti with tomato and basil

Fried antipasto

Grilled shrimps

Walking back down towards the old center of Capri, you’ll soon discover what has made the island such a hit with the shopaholics and well-heeled of society as you passed by myriads of fancy designer boutiques and high-end restaurants. The maze of narrow lanes is often overcrowded during the day so this is where it pays to be an overnighter as you’ll have them ‘practically’ all to yourself in the evenings when the crowds have gone.

Almost every lane will lead you straight to Capri’s most famous square, Piazza Umberto I, more commonly known simply as the Piazzetta. It is the center of the island’s social life and a perfect place to sit back and relax at one of the four bars, glancing up to admire the surrounding monuments such as the clock tower and cathedral, but mostly just enjoying the people-watching opportunities in what people refers to as the ‘world’s little theatre’.

You shouldn’t leave without a taste of the local specialty, the torta Caprese, a flourless, chocolate-almond torte which originated here on the island, simply sublime. I have a recipe here if you can’t make it to Capri!

Just steps from the Piazzetta is the funicular, a scenic way to go down to Marina Grande where you’ll be catching the ferry back. One last food stop for the ride – lemon gelato, a refreshing local flavor…

A short day trip was enough to get a glimpse of Capri and its beauty albeit a pretty commercialized and touristy one. The island has a lot more serene spots and remote paradises if you extend your trip for a few days and take a walk along the numerous footpaths leading to the secret coves we could see from above. A revoir….

The Amalfi Coast certainly needs no introduction with its stunning beauty and dramatic landscape featured everywhere as the ultimate Mediterranean scenery. One day driving its sinuous roads is enough to charm you senseless, and a few more will turn you into a hard core devotee.

When coming from the north which most people are, the first main city to welcome you to this gorgeous region is Sorrento, perched high above the Bay of Naples.

The pretty old town stretches from the Piazza Tasso in all directions, passing shops, bars, restaurants, and trees heavy with lemons.

Right by the city centre down a deep gorge, ruins from an old mill make for a hauntingly beautiful sight.

The narrow streets are filled with souvenir shops, mostly food related and 50% having to do with the region’s king of all fruits – the lemon. Limoncello shops and tasting rooms are at every corner so you can sip away the sweet concoction while you look around.

Sorrento Cathedral

Down a little side street, you’ll find Inn Bufalito, a mozzarella bar and restaurant specializing in Buffalo cheese and meat. It’s one of the city’s most popular and I can vouch for the casual vibe as much as for the scrumptious meal – bring on the cheese!

Buffalo Burrata cheese with tomato coulis

Warm vegetables with buffalo mozzarella

Focaccia with Rosemary

Buffalo meat Carpaccio

Paccheri with buffalo meat ragu

Fusilli with Buffalo meat sauce

Buffalo Steak

Cheesecake

Dark chocolate tart

Almonds & Lemon Tart

Following the coast west from Sorrento will get you to Massa Lubrense in about 10-15 minutes, a charming and lush commune where we opted to base ourselves for a few days. Renting a villa or an apartment is the best option if you want the splendid views with a dose of tranquility and flexibility. With a terrace like this, I sure wasn’t complaining…

Driving the Amalfi Coast should be on everyone’s list, both for the drop-dead gorgeous scenery and sheer thrill of negotiating those famous hairpin bends with the numerous tourist buses invariably going the other way.

Every way you look: turquoise water, colorful villas spilling down the cliffside, small beaches, green terraces, etc.

It’s worth making a few stops and Ravello should be a priority as few places can compete with the views this highly perched town affords.

The peaceful and polished square with its cathedral sets the tone of this elegant resort town.

The square’s cafe is the ideal setting for a morning coffee break of cornetto and cookies filled with nutella and apricot jam.

And let’s not forget the ricotta and pear tart which I’ve been indulging in almost every cities we visited.

The traffic-free town is charming on its own though stepping into one of its main villas will uncover the true glamour of bygone days and illustrious artists that stayed here.

The castle-like Villa Rufolo makes for an enchanting walk with history spanning hundreds of years and Arab influences at every corner.

It’s the elegant gardens and terraces though that will leave you speechless…

…and the heart-stopping, vertigo-inducing views from the belvedere.

When you’re ready to get down to sea level, the fishing town of Cetara awaits not too far away with its secluded beach, quaint little cottages, and delicious fish cuisine.

Walking up from the town’s pretty little harbor, you can’t help but notice the incredible quietness and picturesque main street that tortuously goes up the hill. Wandering around Cetara is a wonderful way to get a glimpse of traditional living on the Amalfi Coast without the usual hordes of tourists, so you’ll end up lingering here for a while!

Cetara specializes in fishing, processing and preserving tuna and anchovies and is famous for the local production of ‘colatura di alici‘ – dripping of salted anchovies. There’s no better place to sample it than at Acquapazza right by the harbor.

Known across the coast for their anchovies dishes, the menu will please any lover of fish sauce and freshly caught fish which feature on almost every dishes.

Tuna with roasted eggplant cream and powdered olive

Roast octopus with mixed salad

Salted anchovies matured in barriques with olive oil, chili, garlic, and parsley

Amberjack with water, oil, tomatoes, parsley, salt, garlic, white wine

Paccheri with bottarga and figs

Strawberry coulis with sweetened ricotta cheese

Patty hot citrus

Don’t miss a visit to their tasting room next door to sample their homemade culinary delicacy of salted anchovy sauce which you can purchase onsite.

When the fish is caught, the fishermen throw it into wood barrels, alternating layers with handfuls of salt. Then the fish is pressed down by a wooden lid weighted with rocks for a couple of months after which the anchovies have produced the precious and fragrant amber juice.

Last but not least, no trip to the region would be complete without a stop in the epitome of Amalfi chic – Positano.

Considered by many to be the most photogenic town on the coast, admire it from the beach looking up and then climb up the winding streets to get the most out of every angle – you won’t be able to put your camera down.

Steeply stacked houses seem to tumble down into the sea in a splash of pastel colors.

Besides the views, Positano is the place to indulge in glamorous hotels, fashionable boutiques, and authentic restaurants with stunning views.

If you’re after an even higher vantage point and a bit of a good time, then head up much higher in the lush green hills overlooking Positano to Fattoria La Tagliata.

The colorful family-owned restaurant is a tourist magnet with its gargantuan feast served family-style,  live entertainment, and very gentle prices. You’d better pace yourself as you’ll rarely see such an amount of food in one sitting, especially not when it includes over 6 antipasto, 4 different pasta dishes, an extremely large platter of grilled meats, and a sampling of homemade desserts. Just enjoy yourself (and the view if you can come during lunch hour) and savor the simple and rustic dishes and the warmth of your hosts – this will be a meal you won’t forget.

Antipasto

Pasta

Meat!

When you feel like you’re about to explode, you’ll enjoy the opportunity to get out of your chair and participate in the live band along with the owners – you’ll need all the calorie-burning activities possible to make up for what you’ve just ingested!

No need to be a history buff to appreciate the wonder that is Pompeii, the old city buried in ash. Located near Naples, what was once one of the greatest cities of the Roman age before being destroyed by the eruption of the Vesuvius in 79 A.D. is now one of the best examples of preservation known today. With a pair of sensible shoes, a water bottle, and a bit of advance planning, you can spend a few hours in the only place in the world offering a fairly clear picture of what life was like here 2,000 years ago.

The ancient street plan is intact so you just need to grab a map, decide which of the numerous buildings you most want to see and start walking. Don’t try to work out what every building was as you would be here for days but do venture outside of the main arteries for a quieter exploration.

The large theatre could sit up to 5,000 people and hosted performances of comedies and tragedies as entertainment.

The expansive Forum was, like in Rome, the political, commercial and social heart of the town.

The court house, municipal offices, main temples, and the market were all located within the Forum.

If you visit later in the afternoon, you’ll be able to escape the crowds, the heat, and linger along the silent streets where you can truly fall under the site’s spell.

The beauty of wandering through a deserted Pompeii is unmatched, especially as you’ll discover plenty of hidden treasures along the way. By all means, if you spot an open door – go through it! We’ve stumbled upon open courtyards, little fountains, marble furniture, etc.

The House of the Tragic Poet, a example of a typical private home of that time, charms with its colorful walls, well preserved paintings, and overall romanticism.

A lot more impressive though is the House of the Faun, one of the largest residences in Pompeii.

Looking at the magnificent gardens (reconstructed of course) and lavish mosaics still covering some of the floors, one can only imagine the opulent lifestyle of the elite owners.

One of the main streets

An exquisite marble bench

Besides lovely houses, the historical value of discovering the day-to-day life through the numerous bath houses and here, the local bar, is immense. Large holes would contain water, beer and/or wine.

While many inhabitants were able to flee the eruption in time, it’s impossible to ignore the tragic ending of those who got stuck in the city as is remembered throughout the site. A stop at the “Garden of the Fugitives” is a chilling reminder with plaster casts of victims still in situ, crouching in corners or clinging to each other as the debris fell.

At the other end of the city, next to the exit, stands the majestic Amphitheatre.

It’s the oldest stone building of this kind in the world, 150 years older than the Colosseum in Rome.

Preserved sign by the exit

You’ll surely be hungry by now and thinking of jumping into the first open café you’ll see and that wouldn’t be far from the best scenario. As providential and surprising as it may seem, it’s merely a few steps down the street from the exit that we had one if not THE best meal of our trip in the most inconspicuous of places. That such a culinary treasure as Add‘u‘ Mimi‘ should find itself in close proximity to the biggest tourist attraction in the region is a mystery, but one you’d be foolish not to uncover.

First of all this has to be the restaurant with the best service we’ve had, the owner Roberto kindly welcoming us and describing the house specialties with a love and respect for the regional food one hardly sees, and in three languages no less! With everything made in-house, including a fennel-based digestive at the end of our meal which trumped every limoncello we’ve previously had, the outstanding quality shone throughout the few hours we spent there.

What followed was a perfectly choreographed feast of the simplest dishes, heavy on the local seafood  which is the specialty, each with a taste that I have yet to forget. Even better, the prices are as gentle as the cooking methods with barely anything on the menu venturing into the double digits. A true find which has ‘almost’ eclipsed the 2,000 yrs old city we had just visited…

Antipasto Assortito – Bruschetta

Antipasto Assortito – Prosciutto e mozzarella

Mussels

Antipasto di Mare

Polpo

Insalata Caprese

Shrimps

Frittura Mista del Golfo

Salsiccia

Pasta

Vitello

Torta Ricotta e Pera

Baba au rhum

Chocolate & Hazelnut

You’ll be pretty full by then, but just in case there is a great gelateria almost right across the street which is well worth a visit also.

De Vivo has plenty of retro charm and loads of pastries on top of the homemade gelato.

We couldn’t resist…