Even if you’re in Seoul for just a few days, it’s likely you’ll visit the two main palaces since they’re in such close proximity, with Bukchon Village nicely tucked in between. It doesn’t really matter which one you start with: the grand (and first) palace of Gyeongbokgung or the second (and often preferred) palace of Changdeokgung.

No day in Seoul could properly start without lining up with all the Instagrammers for the latest bakery craze, which is exactly what I did. The line in front of Mil Toast was already reaching the end of the block only 15 minutes after opening – patience was in order!

They specialize in steamed breads with sweet and savory fillings. I tried a plain and one filled with sweet potatoes and they were absolutely delicious, and so was the drip coffee. Note though that the service is really slow and combined with the queue at the door you have to factor in at minimum 1h30 to 2hrs for your breakfast. I’m still glad I went and felt energized to tackle the one palace I was most excited about…

Changdeokgung

The entrance to Changdeokgung is right in front of a busy intersection and only a block away from the Arario Museum. It is often described as the most attractive of Seoul’s palaces (and it’s a World Heritage Site) though you wouldn’t be able to tell from the main gate…its beauty shall be revealed a bit later.

The “Palace of Illustrious Virtue” was built in the 15th century as a secondary palace to Gyeongbukgung. When both palaces were destroyed during the Japanese invasion in the 1590s, Changdeokgung was rebuilt and became the primary royal residence until 1872.

The main building, Injeongjeon, contains the throne hall which looked more impressive than the one I marveled at Gyeongbukgung.

After traversing vast courtyards and passing by the government office buildings, you reach the private living quarters of the royal family.

Peering inside some of the partially furnished rooms, you can almost imagine the buzz of activity and royal court intrigue that undoubtedly took place.

Separated from the royal residence, an attractive complex is visible a few minutes walk away, across the main “square” and down a verdant footpath. Nakseonjae Hall was built by one of the residing kings for his favorite concubine.

I loved the simple aesthetic from the first sight which is described as an “austere Confucius style”.

The unpainted wood and the “round moon door” were some of my favorite elements.

There were lovely terraced gardens at the back too embellishing the elegant and intricate architecture.

As one of the most recent additions, royal descendants lived in this complex until 1989.

Secret Garden

Now it’s time for the icing on the cake, or the reason why this palace was so beloved by the kings of the Joseon Dynasty – The Secret Garden. Access to the beautiful garden in the back is done through a separate entrance and requires advance reservation so don’t forget to book your time slot when buying your palace ticket. Once you’re in, you first follow an undulating path through dense woodland.

You’ll suddenly emerge in the middle of a gorgeous scene of pavilions and halls surrounding a square lily pond.

The Joseon kings would come here with their family to relax, study, and partake in various outdoor activities.

As enchanting as the setting by the pond is, the Secret Garden takes up almost 60% of the entire area of the Changdeokgung Palace so there’s lots more exploring to do. There are other beautiful sights and buildings hidden in a series of valley making it impossible to grasp the immensity of the garden’s layout at once.

So many ponds and pavilions…

Walk down to find another large complex called Yeongyeongdang.

Deeper still in the garden, a large pond invites you to stroll all around its shore to admire the fall foliage’s reflection.

Another surprise awaits way at the back in the form of an elegant greenhouse.

Step inside for some green envy and a few unique specimens.

You could spend the majority of your day in Changdeokgung but hunger will probably get you out at some point. I stumbled upon this delightful Korean restaurant, Jeonda, near the palace exit.

The lunch special was incredibly tasty and filling, and a great all around introduction to Korean cuisine.

Time to relax for the rest of the day, wander around Bukchon some more, and maybe pop into a fancy tea house for a taste and souvenirs?

Next, time to get a more modern perspective on Seoul with a visit to Dongdaemun…

Another bright sunny day begins in Seoul and with it a plethora of old and new to discover. For us foodie travelers though there’s only one question: what’s for breakfast? Between the giant palace compounds and vast neighborhoods, you will have walked your 10,000 steps before lunchtime so filling up first thing is crucial. Problem is, Koreans don’t have a culture of eating breakfast outside of their homes! Most restaurants open at 11am so what’s a starving tourist up early supposed to do?

Unless you’re staying near one of the few brunch places in the city (or worst – Starbucks), your only option is often a hip bakery serving nothing but breads or pastries (very delicious though!) starting from 9am or 10am so… bring protein snacks! One such bakeries, Soha Salt Pond, specializes in salted breads which are similar to milk buns but with salt in them and in various flavors.

You’ll recognize the hip bakery by the Instagrammable display taking up precious seating (!) and usually interminable lines out the door, except this time I had shown up 15 min before they open… I had been awake since 3am due to jet lag.

There were only two flavors out of the oven then so I tried both the plain salt and the truffle salt breads. They were nice, warm and fluffy, and I did like their saltiness, but I wouldn’t go out of my way to eat them. I just needed a bit of carbs to get me going! My advice would be to visit later in the day for a midafternoon snack and try their sweet offerings too.

Bukchon Hanok Village

Our destination for today is a short walk away, smack in the middle of old Seoul – Bukchon Hanok Village. This incredibly scenic neighborhood is on every tourist’s must do list and easy to access as it sits nicely between the two main palaces of Gyeonbokgung and Changdeokgung. Bukchon (North Village) is a traditional village consisting of around 900 hanok houses and  is where the ruling class lived during the Joseon Dynasty. Start with a visit to the Baek In-je’s House, a house museum (free entry) that will give you a behind-the-scene look at the hanok style.

The house was built in 1913  during the Japanese colonial period and is a beautifully preserved example of a traditional hanok with modern features. It is named after the former owner, Dr. Baek In-je, a surgeon who resided here from 1944.

The beautiful courtyard, large garden , and abundant windows bring a feeling of seclusion in the middle of the city.

Take your time to soak up the unique atmosphere and admire the distinctive architecture.

You’re free to wander around the property and take a peak inside the buildings from the outside, noticing the Japanese influences in the tatami rooms and hallway.

Now it’s time to step into the village proper and get lost in its maze of twisting streets.

The uphill walk is best done super slowly and quietly to take in the unique homes built of stones, wood, soil and rice paper, their iconic slopping tiled roofs and the occasional patterned wall. Despite being filled with tourists, this is still a residential neighborhood and visitors are asked to keep noise to a minimum.

A handful of homes are open to the public, some as cute tea houses, others hosting workshops to learn traditional crafts, all incredibly picturesque.

You might struggle to find an empty street but still nothing will distract you from the views of the modern city in the distance.

Find a quiet spot for a refreshment amid the many hidden courtyards and gardens or visit a nearby coffee shop at the edge of the village.

Seasonal treats are always a good idea and fall is chestnut time in South Korea. I deserved a cake after all that uphill walking!

Lunch time around Bukchon

For something more substantial, the area is filled with good restaurants, it just depends on how hungry you are and if you’re willing to queue…

Walk down Yulgok-ro 3-gil street to find tons of small Korean eateries amongst the many gift shops.

A classic gimbap always hit the spot.

Round out your meal at the nearby Hansik Space, a very cool, multidisciplinary venue to promote authentic Korean food and its culture. There’s an educational showroom/gallery, a cafe where you can sample traditional teas and sweets not found everywhere, a shop where you can buy authentic local products from traditional farms and producers…

…and there’s also the Sool Gallery focused on Korean traditional liquors.

You can even book a tasting which I highly recommend you do. You’ll get to try five liquors ranging from the traditional makgeolli to fruit-based dessert wines, just enough to give you an extra boost to finish the day.

Quirky art

With your newfound buzz, head to the Arario Museum in SPACE a few blocks away for a sensorial and fun experience. The contemporary art museum is one of the most peculiar I’ve seen, blending art, architecture, and history into a mysterious collage. The building itself, an architecture firm’s office from the 1970s, shapes a big part of the impression with its ivy-covered courtyard and angular staircases.

Exhibits run from large scale modern sculptures to slightly disturbing pieces (candy made of body parts or severed head made by the sculptor’s own blood).

The exhibitions aren’t the only draw here. Step outside to find a hanok in the courtyard serving coffee and cakes and a pagoda rumored to date back to before the Joseon Dynasty (before 1392).

Evening

Down an alley you’ll find my favorite cocktail bar in Seoul – Gong-gan. Set in a stunning traditional hanok with a modern, minimalist decor, this is where you want to relax after a long day and savor some exquisite cocktails and food. The service is impeccable – you get a hand towel to freshen up and rice crackers upon sitting down – and each refined cocktail comes paired with a small bite.

If you prefer to go low on alcohol, you could head to Slown for a glass of kombucha or tea pet-nat.

After wetting my appetite, my stomach led me straight to a hip katsu restaurant, illwall katsu. It’s not Korean but crispy Japanese pork cutlets are always a good option in my book and this one was as close to being in Japan as I’ve ever tasted!

Next > time to hit the other palace!

With a vibrant mix of tech-forward and deeply traditional culture, Seoul offers a wonderfully diverse blend of experiences for visitors. The trick is in planning your itinerary carefully to take in as much of what interests you in the second largest metropolitan area in the world! From ancient palaces and temples to K-Pop and mountain trails, you can tailor your days to your own taste and reveal the most appealing urban side of Seoul.

I packed in a lot in five days in the city and while I didn’t cover everything I wanted to see, I feel I got an ideal mix of sights and local experiences. This is the first in a series of several posts on Seoul in no particular order to give you a taste of the breadth of things to see and do and let you do your own picking… Most people start in the centuries-old heart of Seoul, the Jongno district, where the main palaces are juxtaposed with galleries and cafe-filled streets.

Gyeongbokgung Palace

Considered the epicenter of old Seoul, Gyeongbokgung Palace (the Palace Greatly Blessed by Heaven) is Seoul’s first palace built by the founder of the Joseon dynasty in 1395. It’s a great place to start your exploration of the city and get over your jet lag as you wander around some of Seoul’s grandest architectural gems and get a good introduction to Korean culture.

What you’re seeing today is a recent reconstruction since the royal palace was destroyed during the Japanese invasions, including the mythical lion-like creatures greeting you by the imposing Gwanghwamun gate.

Renting a traditional hanbok is a popular thing to do and you’ll easily find rental shops all around the main palaces if you want to bring back original portraits (plus it gives you free entry into the palaces!). Even if you don’t play dress up, you’ll find the majority of locals do and you’ll appreciate the timeless aesthetics it’ll bring to your pictures.

Peak inside the main palace building for a dose of ornate decorations – this is where kings were crowned, met foreign envoys and conducted affairs of state.

Despite its popularity, visiting Gyeongbokgung comes with a surprising amount of quieter moments. The largest palace in Korea, it once consisted of 330 buildings (and 7,700 rooms!) with up to 3000 staff serving the royal family. Take your time wandering through this small city built in a labyrinthine style and finding hidden corners away from the crowds.

Look for the “Wall of Longevity” outside Jagyeongjeon Hall (the queen’s main residence), a beautiful chimney embossed with the ten symbols of longevity, mostly animals and trees, as a wish for the queen’s long life.

Terraced gardens invite picnickers and serene photoshoots.

At the northern edge of the compound you’ll find more residential halls for the king’s personal use in verdant surroundings.

An attractive hexagonal pavilion on an island in the middle of a pond invites contemplation, especially amid the colorful fall foliage. Benches all around lets you sit and admire the beautiful view and take a rest from all the walking.

Capture views of Bukaksan mountain in the back, a popular day hike if time permits.

To the west, the stunning Gyeonghoeru pavilion emerges from an artificial lake on 48 stone pillars. It used to host royal banquets and is now a favorite background for portraits and selfies.

Before exiting, a stop at the National Palace Museum of Korea is a worthwhile addition to learn some more background info on the Joseon Dynasty & the royal family. It’ll come in handy for the rest of your stay in the country.

Medicinal Lunch

Considering you will have spent a few hours touring the palace, head straight out towards lunch a few blocks away in a traditional (and very popular) establishment – Tosokchon Samgyetang. Get used to seeing long queues outside of every well-known spots in the city and just get in line – this is an experience worth waiting for.

Tosokchon is famous for its samgyetan (ginseng chicken soup), a nutritious meal that used to be served only to royalty. As is traditionally done in Korean cuisine, the soup comes with a number of accompaniments and the restaurant was clever enough to provide an illuminating guide on how to eat everything and in what order – no chance for an embarrassing faux pas!

Try the slightly pricier black chicken version, which uses the silky breed with naturally black flesh and bones to surprising effect. The soup is made with a whole young chicken that is stuffed with glutinous rice and simmered in a broth with ginseng, garlic, jujubes and various nuts for a comforting and medicinal meal.

Downtown Stroll

Head back towards the palace’s main gate and walk south across Gwanghwamun Square, one of the city’s many open spaces built as part of Seoul’s environmentally friendly redevelopment. Pass fountains, cafes, and imposing statues such as that of Admiral Yi Sun-sin, a 16th-century Korean admiral and war hero.

Soon you’ll reach Cheonggye Plaza once you spot the enormous pink-and-blue shell entitled Spring. This place marks the beginning of Cheonggyecheon, a revitalized stream with waterfalls, landscaped walkways and footbridges that traverses the downtown area over 6 miles.

It makes for a delightful riverside walk any time of day and when you need a break from the urban hustle and heavy traffic. Locals gather here to relax, dangle their feet in the water, catch some temporary art installations, etc.

Insadong

Make your way to the maze-like and gallery-filled streets of Insadong just a few blocks north of the street to end your day with some good shopping and eating.

Traditional Korean treats such as hangwa are making a comeback and come in pretty packages ideal to bring back home. The grain-based confections coated in a hodgepodge of dried fruits, seeds, and nuts also make a healthy snack for your trip.

Multi-level shopping malls flank the main pedestrian street filled with Korean designer shops. Look for original handicrafts, fashion and homewares and grab a coffee or sweet on the rooftop terrace to get a nice view over the vibrant neighborhood.

Just up the street, an unassuming staircase leads to a second floor restaurant – Bonjuk Insadong. Serving mainly juk (Korean rice porridge), it’s a cozy place to try this traditional Korean dish usually eaten for breakfast.

There’s a porridge to suit everyone’s taste, from vegetarian and crab with abalone intestine to sweet versions. It’s quick, filling, and reasonably priced.

A stone’s throw away, pay a colorful visit to Jogyesa Temple, the center of Korean Buddhism.

Come for a bit of respite from the bustling shopping district and enjoy the gorgeous installations that change with the seasons, from lanterns and lotus plants to flowers.

At the center of it all, a giant tree (Chinese Scholar Tree) rises more than 85 feet high and is over 450 years old – a sight to behold.

End your day with an evening walk along the stream which looks totally different under the night lights.

Next, explore more of the old Seoul in Bukchon Hanok Village >