I like saving the best for last, and coincidentally my last days in Nicaragua were spent on the tropical paradise of Ometepe. The 19-mile long island feels like a world away from the rest of the country. A few days spent exploring its relatively untouched nature is all one needs to join the ranks of admirers of this often called ‘mini-amazon’.  

Getting there requires a little bit of effort, and catching one of the ferries leaving the port of San Jorge on the mainland. 

In a little over an hour you’ll reach the promised land, its iconic twin volcanoes luring you towards its shore.

From the moment you step onto the island, your mind immediately switches to its laid-back setting. The green and lush landscape, farm animals crossing the street, warm welcome from locals who never dreamed of leaving…the mood is slow and happy, just what you needed.

There aren’t any big resorts here (thankfully) so you have the choice between a handful of great, family-run guest houses spread throughout the island or a few more established hotels such as Finca San Juan de la Isla where I spent a few idyllic days.

From the entrance gate, it’s a mile-long road through the beautiful 160 acres of private land, getting immediately immersed in the rustic life…

…and their tropical fruit tree plantation.

The end will no doubt stun you as you disembark to the sound of the crashing waves and the strong lake breeze blowing against the shore. Welcome to my version of a perfect laid-back getaway. 

Looking out, it’s pretty impressive to think you’re standing in the middle of a lake with those waves and no sign of the mainland as far as your eyes can see. Lake Nicaragua is indeed Central America’s largest body of freshwater, so vast that Spanish Conquistadors believed it was open sea…

Lake-front bungalows are the real draw here with this view from your bedroom and private terrace.

Or you can opt for even quieter dwellings by staying in one of the rooms by the water pond.

The shared porch is probably one of my favorite spots on the island with impressive birdlife to contemplate and the outline of Maderas volcano in the background (often covered in clouds which adds to the enchantment). 

You could spend your days here and truly, really relax, enjoying the healthy meals served all fresco by the beach…

…but you would be missing out on quite a few treasures hidden throughout the island. An easy walk or ride from Finca San Juan will bring you to Ojo de Agua, a pair of natural spring water pools shaded by leafy old trees.

Locals and tourists spend part of the day alternating between dips in the warm water, drying on the sun-dappled rock edges, and snacking in the cooling shade.

The pools are fed by an underground river that comes down from volcano Maderas.

Get some more close-ups of Ometepe’s incredible nature by hiking the trails of Chaco Verde.

The natural reserve is a tropical dry forest, home to an abundance of wildlife and pretty sights at every turn.

Looking towards volcano Maderas in the distance.

The dry jungle eventually rolls back down to shore, revealing a super small and quiet beach if you feel like another dip.

The wet lowlands and mangrove forest are filled with birds and a real treat to wander around with overgrown vegetation encircling your path… stunning.

The path will soon bring you to Laguna Verde with this time a close view of volcano Concepcion.

Make a stop at the Butterfly Sanctuary on your way out for a glimpse of a few intricate creatures. 

Next, you’ll want to cross the small strip of land linking the north to the south of the island to find yourself in Ometepe’s hippieland. 

The small town of Balgüe is a hub of activity for backpackers who flock to one of the farm-run hostels  along the foothills of Maderas. Cheery cafes serving the local bounty line the main road and offer plenty of chilled respite from the hot afternoon sun.

Make some time to go see some of the intriguing rock carvings nearby, like those accessible from Finca Magdalena. Few people know that Ometepe’s sacred native ground is strewn with pre-Columbian petroglyphs dating as far back as 1000 B.C.

When hunger strikes, Cafe Campestre will satisfy all your cravings with their organic farm-to-table offerings.

Just seeing their homemade pasta station should convince you to eat here, and more than once if you’re around for a few days.

The wide-ranging menu makes the most of the produce they grow on their farm, here featured in a scrumptious veggie burrito with plantain chips and passionfruit juice. 

Save your sweet tooth though for the nearby El Pital Chocolate Paradise, a raw chocolate factory and juice bar located nearby on a quiet cove.

Hammocks hanging between trees, surfboard decor, people with dreadlocks, crystals and silk floating in the breeze…you get the picture! 

They do make some amazing, healthy desserts and of course artisanal raw chocolates flavored with local ingredients. Their totally natural composition means you can’t take them home with you (they wouldn’t survive the trip!) so consume them in this island paradise – it’s where they were meant to be enjoyed.

You’ll soon want to trade your hippie chair for a hammock on that porch back at the hotel though (life is exhausting here)…

…as these Ometepe sunsets are truly a sight to behold.

When you arrive in Nicaragua’s oldest colonial city, your gaze is immediately taken by its iconic generations-old buildings of stucco and cement painted in vivid pinks, lime greens, violet, etc. Granada is a city for leisure walkers and anyone who can appreciate historical beauty and good food – hence why it is so popular!

Rival with Leon as the country’s main city, what it lacks in terms of urban buzz Granada definitely makes up for with its colorful aesthetic.

The food is varied and delicious, blending local cuisine with global trends for the increasing number of expats as seen in this delicious dragon fruit smoothie bowl at Pitaya Bowl Cafe.

Life is centered on the Cathedral Square with its candy-colored government buildings…

You’ll see far more locals than tourists here, especially in the parque central in front of the cathedral. 

Take a seat in the much appreciated shade and watch them socializing over shaved ice or getting their shoe shined.

You’ll also find some of the best local specialties right in the park at El Gordito in the southwest corner.

You can’t leave Granada before trying the national dish of vigorón which originated here. The unique combo of soft starchy yuca (cassava), crunchy chicharrones (pork rinds), vinegary chopped cabbage, a tangy local fruit called mimbro, and spicy chilli is lip-smacking delicious and perfect enjoyed outside with a local hibiscus juice. 

Two blocks away you’ll find the most beautiful church in the city, Iglesia La Merced. Admire its 1534 run-down facade before going in for the real treat.

Climbing to the top of the clock tower offers the best photo opportunities in all of Granada and you’ll be able to capture the entire city, neighboring volcanoes and lake in one jaw-dropping 360 degrees view.

Granada’s main street is the pedestrian-only La Calzada which extends east from the cathedral towards the lake.

Lined with a wide range of bars, restaurants, shops and travel agencies, it sure is a bit touristy but the ample outdoor seating makes it ideal for people watching.

You’ll find Granada’s best bakery on La Calzada – Pan De Vida – which is as good for its breakfasts as it is for lunch (brick oven pizza!).

Their courtyard is a well-kept secret and a serene place to enjoy your baked goods away from the bustle of the street.

Granada’s old mansions hide many courtyards and a lot of them around La Calzada have been transformed into art galleries and shops, so get lost and enjoy discovering the labyrinth of the center’s artistic scene.

If you’re looking for original art, I would highly suggest you go to Ricardo Maya’s Art Studio just a few blocks away on Calle El Arsenal. The  Master Cuban Painter has been living in Granada for over 20 years and I found his creations (which have been exhibited in galleries all over the world) to be exquisite and the best I’ve seen in Granada. Our wonderful chats have given me a local perspective on living in Granada and arts in Central America…as well as a stunning souvenir to bring home… 🙂

Few places in Granada can rival The Garden Cafe for its ambiance and gorgeous interiors.

You can stay in the light and airy front room to sip an amazing coffee while browsing the myriads of books lining the walls.

Or you can step inside into their amazing courtyard garden for a peaceful breakfast or lunch.

Get their Nacatamales, a Nicaraguan specialty (the fatty cousin of the Mexican tamale), usually eaten at breakfast time. Steamed corn meal dough holds rice, vegetables and meat wrapped in a large banana leaf, here served with gallo pinto and toast – a filling start to the day!

If the heat of the city has gotten to you or you just feel like relaxing for an afternoon, Mansion de Chocolate is most probably the answer.  The oldest colonial mansion in the city was built by the former president Evaristo Carazo around the year 1860 and is now a chocolate-themed hotel and spa.

You can buy a day pass to access the pool or book a massage at the spa which will grant you free access to the premises. 

Of course, this being a ‘chocolate-themed’ spa, you should totally try their signature ‘choco therapy’ massage… I did and I can still smell the warm, melted chocolate that was rubbed all over my body!

Slow walking is necessary in Granada since every city block will have a few colorful treasures you’ll want to stop and admire for a while, imagining life behind rainbow-hued walls.

You’ll find a delicious farm-to-table meal at El Garaje, a charming family-run restaurant on Calle Corrales. 

Only opened for lunch, it offers super fresh dishes from sandwiches to soups and salads as well as more substantial meat plates. 

Cucumber gazpacho

House salad

On the same street, the imposing San Francisco Convent glows in the early evening light. Take a look inside the attached cultural centre which now holds Nicaragua’s best pre-Columbian museum.

Sunset is the right time to take another stroll on La Calzada when the terraces start filling up again and the colors get that extra pop from the golden light.

Make sure you walk all the way to the end of the street to see the Guadalupe Church in all its glory against the dusky sky.

I’ve always liked that time of day too much to sit at a table so I went on a little exploration of my own in the backstreets of Granada which are as full of character as its historical core.

In the west part of town, Parque Xalteva and Xalteva Church are a real hub of local activity.

Originally used as a market a long time ago, it is now a lovely place for locals to hang out amidst the beautiful neoclassical stone structures and cement benches.

Plaza Xalteva across the street is another pretty square that leads to a charming residential part of town – simply take any streets leaving from it to immerse yourself in the barrio!

Elaborate murals seem to appear out of nowhere.

Even intersections get the artistic treatment….

This part of town also has a very hip place to stop for a coffee, a bit of shopping, or a full meal at Espressionista.

The coffee bar/restaurant offers an ambitious menu of international cuisine and is shining a light on the local craft beer scene as well which makes it an ideal evening stop. I had a delicious fish Pho made with fresh, local ingredients and a locally made German beer, and the candlelit atmosphere is also a winner in my book!

If you have an extra day in Granada, there’s a wonderful escape about 20 minutes drive from the city that is an absolute must – Laguna de Apoyo.

Created by the Apoyo volcano at least 20,000 years ago, the crater lake is a natural wonder of 7km in diameter, surrounded by lush green slopes and a rich flora and fauna. The air is crisp and clean, the water cool and clear, and it’s a delight to lay down on one of the small hotels beaches lining the western shore for a day of total relaxation.

Just like a day at the beach, you’ll have your cocktails, fruit juices, and local dishes to satisfy your every need, here sampling an assortment of plaintain tostones topped with local cheese and ground meat.

It’s a great way to end your visit to Granada and prepare you for your upcoming coastal adventure…

When you’re ready for a reprieve from León’s unrelenting sun, a quick 20-minute drive will bring you to the dreamy escape of Las Peñitas. The close proximity of one Nicaragua’s most picturesque and uncrowded beaches is just one more reason to love León so much. Leave the hustle and bustle behind for a day, a week, or forever as some expats have done when finding this little gem…

The chilled out beach town is the remedy for all the stress in your life. Nothing much to do but relax, grab a book, and enjoy a cold drink staring at the long stretch of dark volcanic beach that extends in either directions.

Tiny hotels and local seafood joints line the main strip, attracting as much the locals as the backpacking tourists. I stayed at the fantastic family-run Simple Beach Lodge, an eco lodge with only 7 rooms and a small dormitory. 

My split-level bedroom was built like an adorable tree-house, with a dreamy bed in an alcove up the stairs.

The window afforded great views of the beach and waves lapping soundtrack to fall asleep at night.

For some quiet time and fresh ocean breeze, I found myself hanging out often on the second floor balcony with its hammocks and antique rocking chair.

The lodge’s café where breakfast, lunch and drinks are served throughout the day is directly on the beach and possibly the best hangout spot in town.

From here you can take a stroll in either direction. Go left to reach the end of the beach and the estuary. Here tours can take you through the nearby mangrove forest and nature reserve of Isla Juan Venado (better when it’s turtle season in from August to December).

Also at the end of the beach – the uber popular (and crowded) restaurant/hostel Barca de Oro.

Fishermen bring their daily catch right on the restaurant’s doorsteps so going with the grilled fish of the day is a smart and scrumptious choice.

Walking back towards the west you can take in all the beach activity which mainly centers around surfing. With waves big and small, it’s a great place to learn with one of the local schools, especially since it’s so uncrowded you’ll get a beach section all to yourself.

For the rest of us who really just want to chill out, well there’s plenty of that too! Simply find a shaded stretch of sand or head to one of the outdoor cafes with hammocks and tables and….do nothing! It’s incredible how one can while away the hours contemplating the rolling waves, the splendid sun, and simply embracing that precious wild side of Nicaragua.

Sunsets are not to be missed over here and anywhere you are you’ll get front row seats to the beautiful spectacle.

The Simple Beach Lodge with its perfect location right in front of the surf break is super crowded by now with live music and good vibes attracting beach goers like bees to honey. 

Watching surfers tackle the waves as the sky turns all shades of pink and orange over the ocean is pure beach bliss and you’ll already feel like Las Peñitas has given you everything you came here for…to let go!