Blog - Flying Fourchette

Oaxacan-Style Horchata

July 20, 2019

Well hello, heat wave. When the temperatures reach into the triple-digit, that’s when you realize a subtropical climate is a lot more tolerable with a beach to jump right into! My home survival tips involve closing all the windows and drinking gallons of delicious, cold agua fresca… The refreshing Latin American drink of fruits blended with water and a sweetener is a savior in the dog days of summer.

Agua frescas come in a wide range of flavors and I’m a particular fan of horchata where rice and sometimes nuts are steeped overnight in water and blended with cinnamon and sugar into a sweet, milky version. It’s a very common drink all over Mexico but in Oaxaca, they like to mix their horchata with strawberries for a special treat. Since we still have a few fresh strawberries growing over here, it seemed like the perfect thirst-quencher!

Simply soak brown rice and almonds (they give a nice, nutty flavor) together with ground cinnamon and agave nectar (it blends more easily than sugar) overnight in a blender. Blend it really well the next day, strain it into a pitcher and add more water to reach the top.

You can drink the horchata right away, it’ll certainly beat your morning glass of milk (!) but go ahead and make the strawberry syrup if you want to try it ‘Oaxacan-style’. It’s an easy mix of strawberries, agave nectar and freshly squeeze lime juice.

Fill a glass with ice, about 3/4 of the way with horchata, and pour some strawberry syrup on top – voila!

You have yourself a cool, refreshing, light smoothie that is the perfect accompaniment to scorching days and lazy afternoons. It’s also a great pairing for spicy meals or daydreaming sessions about the Yucatán Peninsula…

Beat the summer heat with a cold glass of Oaxacan-style horchata. The refreshing milky and nutty drink gets a special topping of strawberry syrup.

Prep Time:	10 min
Category:	Beverage
Cuisine:	Mexican
Yield:	6 servings

Preparation

1. Horchata: Pour 3 cups of water into the bowl of a blender or a large mixing bowl and add the brown rice, almonds, agave nectar, and cinnamon. Let soak overnight. Blend in a high-powered blender until smooth, then mix with an additional 6 cups water. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer.

2. Oaxacan-Style Horchata: In a blender, combine the strawberries, agave nectar, lime juice, and salt; blend this syrup until smooth. For each serving, fill up a 12-ounce glass with ice and fill three-quarters of the way with horchata. Pour 2 ounces Oaxacan-style syrup on top.

Ingredients

Horchata:
1 3/4 cups cooked long-grain brown rice, preferably organic
1 cup raw almonds
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons agave nectar
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground cinnamon
Oaxacan-Style:
1 cup cleaned and stemmed strawberries
1/2 cup agave nectar
1 1/2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

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Americas Travels US

Admiring Frank Lloyd Wright’s Buffalo & Niagara Falls

July 9, 2019

So few people I know have been to Buffalo. The second-most populous city in New York State is more often the butt of a joke then a destination on your wishlist. Bitter cold winters? Industrial decline? Just a pit stop on your way to Niagara Falls? Wrong! The Buffalo I just visited was a delight deserving way more than a weekend to do it justice. There’s an identity affirming renaissance happening here and you should plan your visit now.

If you’re a fan of architecture, you’ll no doubt have heard that Buffalo is home to some of Frank Lloyd Wright’s best works. How many cities can boast seven of its splendid creations? Taking in Buffalo’s magnificent architecture is the easiest way to fall in love with it and see it as it was in its industrial heydays. If you have only a short time, make a visit to the Martin House a priority, and take the two hour tour.

No photos are allowed inside so you’ll have to see it for yourself, but I can assure you that stepping inside this temple of design is absolutely incredible. Especially when learning about the house’s history of opulence, abandonment and meticulous $50 million restoration that took 21 years.

The house was the most extravagant private residence Frank Lloyd Wright ever designed, and it was also his favorite. He described it as “a domestic symphony” and that it was “the most perfect thing of its kind in the world.” He affectionately called it his “opus” which should give you an idea of its splendor.

The 15,000-square-foot complex takes up nearly half a city block and every inch of it was refurbished in meticulous details, from the refabricated glass windows to the Wright-designed furniture. Standing in the middle of it, noticing his signature glass work, his clever use of natural light, and his talent for bringing the outside in has imprinted a vision in me I shall keep forever – and lofty goals for one day finding a similarly inspiring place to live in!

A dramatic 175-foot pergola links the house to the rest of the complex and pulls you towards the seductive view of a towering Winged Victory sculpture in the conservatory.

The visit ends with the gardener’s cottage, a decidedly more modest example of Frank’s style but no less interesting to explore. You’ll leave with a newfound passion for the architect if you hadn’t been hooked before, and a newly created list of homes to visit across the US!

The neighborhood around the house makes for a lovely walk and you can also see a few blocks away another one of Frank’s designs. The Walter Davidson House is privately owned (lucky them!) but you can have a good look at it from the street.

Time to check out the food scene and it is fabulous here and totally unpretentious which is so refreshing to see. Of course you can have your fill of delicious chicken wings at many of the local taverns (ask for suggestions – everyone has a strong opinion!) but for a modern mix of small, creative plates, look no further than The Dapper Goose.

The Dapper Goose - Buffalo — Cocktails with beet juice makes me soooo happy!

It has the feel of a very hip and welcoming neighborhood restaurant, comfy seating, and plenty of light – love.

Avocado and crab toast was in order to counteract other Buffalo specialties that were to follow…none too healthy. 😉

Walk it off in beautiful Forest Lawn Cemetery.

There’s another Frank Lloyd Wright’s jewel in here in the shape of the Blue Sky Mausoleum.

Although this unique crypt was commissioned by Darwin Martin (owner of the Martin House you’ve just seen), it was never completed during their lifetime. Martin lost everything in the crash of 1929 and had to put the mausoleum on hold.

The plan was to have a resting place for his entire family with 24 crypts laid out like steps descending to the water’s edge.

The trademark organic architecture is at its place in these lovely grounds and is what I would call a superb last residence…

From there it’s a short walk to another of Buffalo’s shining stars: the Albright-Knox Art Gallery.

It’s one of the oldest museums in the nation and has a high concentration of arresting artworks. I absolutely adore it mainly because of its immaculate curation but also mostly because of its size… So many museums and art galleries are just too big to capture your full attention from beginning to end, and this medium-sized gallery was just perfect to fill in a 2-hour cultural slot with as much beauty as I could take.

Oriol Vilanova’s “Anything, Everything” was a stunner – 4,500 second-hand museum postcards organized by colored background. A mosaic I would blanket a room in my house with…

Modern sculptures on one side, famous paintings on the other – there is literally something for everyone.

Venture outside and you’ll also find a number of amazing sculptures and art installations scattered around the complex.

One more visual gem of Buffalo is the Kleinhans Music Hall, home to the Buffalo Philharmonic Orchestra.

Built in the late 1930s, it is renowned for its acoustical excellence and graceful architecture. Alas, there were no concerts the weekend I was there hence I wasn’t able sadly to experience it for myself…

When dinnertime comes, if you feel like having a well-crafted cocktail (or a few!) with a couple of plates of comfort food, head to Buffalo Proper downtown. The dimly-lit, brick-walled room with a touch of taxidermy and mustachioed bartenders does have that ‘Brooklyn’ feel people seem to want to attribute to everything these days…but it works, tastes amazing, and you’ll have a wonderful, boozy evening.

Near the restaurant, you’ll find the famous Shea’s Performing Arts Center if you want to end the night with a Broadway show or a play. The interior is gorgeous, modeled after the opera houses and palaces of Europe of the 17th and 18th centuries, so full of baroque and rococo.

Another day starts with a filling breakfast at BreadHive Bakery & Cafe.

They make their own bread, bagels and pretzel and their breakfast sandwiches are to die for.

BreadHive Bakery - Breakfast Sandwich — The Aaliyah – scrambled eggs, house breakfast sausage, cheddar, butter, maple syrup

Time to head outside of Buffalo and continue to follow the trace of Frank Lloyd Wright by driving 20 minutes south to reach Graycliff on the shore of Lake Erie.

The beautiful summer estate was designed for Darwin Martin (the same as the Martin House we just visited in Buffalo) and was built between 1926 and 1931.

Graycliff is one of the most ambitious and extensive summer estates Wright ever designed, and although it doesn’t have all the luxurious details of the Martin House, the organic feel and natural location of the house are well worth the detour.

The light pouring in from everywhere is the focal point of the house. The owner’s wife had poor eyesight and the brilliant Frank worked his magic to almost invisibly merge the outside and the inside.

The expansive view over the lake which you can see from everywhere in the house must never have gotten old. Hopefully they will restore the bridge that used to connect with the stairs going down to the beach too!

Enjoy your midday break in the nearby town of Hamburg and its delightful restaurant – The Grange Community Kitchen. The space is gorgeous and the food is all locally sourced and thoughtful. You’ll get a casual cafe vibe during the day and a warm, candle-lit ambiance in the evenings.

The Grange Community Kitchen - Hamburg — Farro bowl with sunchokes chips and marinated egg

End your day by driving the 30 minutes to Niagara Falls for an afternoon of very fine water views shared with a few thousands of tourists. Definitely cross the border into Canada as this is where you’ll have the best panorama.

Niagara Falls - Canada side — The Niagara River marking the border between the US and Canada with view of the American Falls

The famous Horseshoe Falls (straddling the border but mainly visible from the Canadian side) is the clear showstopper and the most powerful waterfall in North America.

It’s powerful, and beautiful, and you’ll get a bit wet while trying to get close to the mouth of the beast. I must admit though, they are no match to Iguazu Falls in South America or Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe… Glad I got to close the loop by finally checking out the North American competition!

Main course Recipes

Tartiflette

June 24, 2019

Tartiflette – usually synonymous with wintry nights and ski resorts, I have no problem with indulging in this rich dish from the French Alps at the beginning of summer. Hiking burns calories too! Trust me, nothing could put a smile on your friends’ faces quicker than seeing that delicious mound of potatoes and bacon drenched in melted Reblochon cheese on the table.

The popular gratin dish is made with sliced potatoes, onions, a good pour of white wine, lardons (or smoked bacon), and a generous dollop of crème fraîche…

…before being topped with half a wheel of Reblochon cheese and placed in the oven. Reblochon is a soft washed-rind and smear ripened cows milk cheese with a nutty, buttery flavor – and it melts like a dream.
Can’t get your hands on Reblochon (it’s unfortunately banned in the US – thank you FDA)? Raclette or a strong triple cream brie should do just fine!

The result is what dreams are made of with a crispy golden layer on top that is a visual stunner. Serve with a light side salad to cut through all that cheese and a chilled Savoie white wine.

The wonderful thing about Tartiflette is how luxurious yet so unpretentious it is. It’s about getting together with friends (preferably after a good day out in the mountains though that’s optional!), the comfort of sharing an indulgent supper and enjoying a good bottle of wine.

I’ll end with a quote from Anthony Bourdain which couldn’t sum it up any better: “Here’s more evidence that you can never have too much cheese, bacon, or starch.”

A luxurious potato dish from the French Alps, Tartiflette is sure to impress any fromage loving friend at your table.

Cook Time:	50 min
Total Time:	75 min
Category:	Entree
Cuisine:	French
Yield:	6

Preparation

1. Peel the potatoes and cut them into slices roughly 1/4 in/ 6 mm thick.

2. Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan. Sweat the onion over medium-low heat for about 10 minutes, or until translucent. Add the bacon and cook for about 5 minutes longer, until the onion is starting to gild and the bacon just begins to crisp. Drain a bit of the bacon fat from the pan but leave most of it for the potatoes.

3. Add the potatoes and toss to coat well with the onion, bacon and residual bacon fat. Sauté for a few more minutes over medium-high heat. Season with salt and pepper. Add the wine, cover the pan, and reduce the heat to low. Simmer for 10 minutes.

4. Preheat the oven to 475°F/240C°.

5. Rub the inside of a ceramic gratin dish with the garlic and then grease with the duck fat.

6. Add the crème fraîche to the potatoes, stir to combine, and then pour the mixture into the prepared gratin dish. Cut the half wheel of cheese in half again. Place the two pieces on top of the potatoes.

7. Bake in the center of the oven for about 20 minutes, or until the cheese is melted, bubbly, and golden.

8. Remove the tartiflette from the oven and let stand for 5 minutes before serving.

Ingredients

3 lbs/1.4 kg waxy yellow potatoes such as Yukon gold
2 tbsp olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
6 oz/170 g smoked bacon, chopped
Salt and freshly cracked black pepper
1/2 cup/120 ml dry white wine
1 garlic clove, peeled
2 tbsp duck fat or unsalted butter
1/3 cup/75 ml crème fraîche
1/2 wheel (8 oz/225 g) Reblochon de Savoie or Preferes des Montagnes cheese

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Breakfast / Brunch Recipes Vegetarian

Yogurt and Za’atar Granola Parfait

June 2, 2019

Have you noticed how Middle Eastern influences in cooking can now be found pretty much everywhere? Nothing could make me happier to be honest. One only has to take a look at my olive oil smeared pages of Ottolenghi cookbooks to know I’m a regular user… Ever since traveling to Jordan years ago, I’ve developed an obsessive love for za’atar. The superb aromatic spice blend combines various herby flavours, usually from toasted sesame seeds, dried thyme, dried marjoram, and sumac although I’ve seen many variations.

I have a habit of wanting to sprinkle it on almost everything (you should try!) and smile every time I come across a za’atar spiced croissant or flatbread in a bakery. It’s therefore no surprise that I jumped when I saw this recipe for za’atar spiced granola – it’s as divine as I had imagined! It’s crunchy, salty, and tangy from the pomegranate molasses with nice little chunks of chewy dates.

Layered with Greek yogurt, or even better with labneh for a true Middle Eastern treat, it’s topped with juicy pomegranate arils and a drizzle of honey for a sweet and savory breakfast.

It’ll give your boring yogurt bowl a satisfyingly spicy crunch and if you’re a newbie, it’ll introduce you to the addictive flavours of za’atar in the best of ways.

It sure tastes wonderful in this yogurt parfait, but try it also as a salad topper, hummus garnish, and anything else you can think of – just have fun with it. Its versatility will win you over.

Update your boring breakfasts with this za’atar spiced granola parfait - layers of spicy crunch and yogurt are topped with pomegranate and honey. Divine!

Prep Time:	30 min
Total Time:	510 min
Category:	Breakfast
Yield:	8

Preparation

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. Stir together oats, dates, pumpkin seeds, za’atar, sesame seeds, and salt in a large bowl.

3. Whisk together 2 1/2 tablespoons honey, olive oil, orange juice, and pomegranate molasses in a small bowl. Pour honey mixture over oat mixture, and stir to combine.

4. Transfer oat mixture to prepared pan, and spread in an even layer. Bake in preheated oven, stirring every 5 minutes, until oats are toasted and begin to look dry, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool completely on baking sheet. (Granola will crisp as it cools.) Store cooled granola in an airtight container until ready to serve.

5. In each of 8 (12-ounce) glasses or bowls, layer 1/4 cup labneh or yogurt, 2 tablespoons granola, 1 teaspoon pomegranate arils, and 1 teaspoon honey. Repeat 2 times in each glass with remaining labneh/yogurt, granola, arils, and honey. Serve parfaits immediately.

Ingredients

2 cups uncooked regular rolled oats
1/2 cup pitted dates, finely chopped
1/4 cup hulled pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
1/4 cup za’atar
2 tablespoons sesame seeds
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 cup plus 2 1/2 tablespoons honey, divided
2 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh orange juice
2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses
6 cups labneh or plain whole-milk Greek yogurt
1/2 cup pomegranate arils, for serving

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Americas Aruba Travels

Beaches and Flamingos in Aruba

May 16, 2019

Aruba – a tiny Dutch Caribbean island off the coast of Venezuela – supposedly has more repeat visitors than any other island in the Caribbean. I was intrigued, of course, and went with a friend to investigate.

It’s hard to argue with Aruba’s moniker of ‘One Happy Island’ and you’d be hard-pressed to feel otherwise during your time here. Feeling happy in Aruba is EASY, the living is easy, and that’s why I think most people come back here again and again.

Weather is dry, comfortable and sunny all year long. It’s outside of the hurricane belt so no need to worry about soaked and ruined holidays. The U.S. dollar is accepted everywhere, and English is spoken universally. There’s something to do for everyone whether you prefer to shop ’til you drop, lounge on a pristine white beach all day, party the night away at the casinos, explore a rugged national park, sail into the sunset, or just relax and do nothing at your resort.

In essence, you’ll have a good time no matter what, though the abundance of familiar chains and fellow US vacationers made it feel like I was not too far from home – not the remote island life I was looking for (you might want to check out Tobago if you prefer to step out of your comfort zone too)!

That being said, there’s nothing wrong with a beautiful and reliable winter getaway as we need those as well and Aruba has quite a few perks waiting for you. The beaches for one are splendid, if a little crowded. Both Eagle Beach and Palm Beach are close to each other and offer that wide, gorgeous stretch of white sand lined with hotels, restaurants and bars. They’re perfect for beachgoers who like to have many options and switch from suntanning to jet skiing to enjoying happy hour at a lively beach bar.

Convenience is also a blessing when it comes to food and you’ll find plenty of options on both beaches for any cravings you have. Seafood is obviously an amazing pick, whether deep-fried like these calamari …

…or served ceviche-style.

Sunsets are gorgeous, but fleeting! Being so close to the equator means you have about 5 minutes of rosy glow before that shining orb disappears in the water.

It’s easy to spend all your time in Aruba along the coast, why wouldn’t you? You’d be missing out on some of the local life and treasures hidden in the middle of the island though. A few minutes drive from the main beaches and hotels, you’ll find The Old Cunucu House – a genuine, laid back family restaurant set in an old Aruban house built over 150 years ago. The hospitality was as warm as the air temperature, an old guy was singing at the front, and the menu of local specialties finally put that Aruban touch the trip was missing. Below is the Keeshi Yena – a dish of chicken with olives, raisins and cashews baked in gouda cheese – a good representation of the various cultures found on the island and sooo delicious!

And a good old Aruban beef stew.

The next day, explore further north to see where the locals hang out and discover the rocky shore of Aruba.

There’s a tiny sandy cove called “three steps” which is a popular snorkeling spot and a quiet escape away from the crowds.

There isn’t much sand there though to lay down your towel so head 2 minutes north to reach the very last beach on the island, Arashi.

Locals are in majority here and who would blame them with all this powdered white sand and calm waters that are perfect for swimming! Bring a picnic as there aren’t many facilities and enjoy a superb slice of turquoise heaven.

Not all beaches are on the mainland though. If you don’t mind splurging a bit for a day out, get up really early to queue for the shuttle taking you to the Renaissance hotel’s private island just a 10 min boat ride off the coast.

The 40-acre private tropical retreat costs $125 to non-guests of the hotel, which includes lunch and all-day access to this stunning (although man-made) paradise. It makes for a truly amazing day as you get to enjoy a stunningly beautiful beach, actually there are two, without the crowds and with all the comfort you’d expect from a high-end resort.

Iguana Beach, below, is where you’ll find the nicest lagoon as well as the restaurant.

Just pick a chair and an umbrella and really you’re set for the day. The beach is perfect for sitting back, relaxing, and watching the world go by.

The island is surrounded by mangrove forests which are ideal for cooling off…

…and getting face-to-face with some of the resident wildlife.

Follow the path behind Iguana Beach for a surprising find: baby flamingos!!

You might have heard about Flamingo Island when researching Aruba, which is the nickname given to Renaissance Island because of its flamingos. They’re not indigenous to the area but have been brought here for the tourists and they successfully became an Instagram sensation. While you might find the babies isolated and available for as many close-ups as you want…

…reaching the second beach of the island, aptly called ‘Flamingo Beach‘, will bring you to the adult flamingos, and their many fans.

A lot pinker than the youngsters, these flamingos spend the day on the beach, being fed and photographed.

My camera sure liked their profile and rosy hues.

When you’ve had enough with chasing birds, take a seat at the only onsite restaurant which thankfully serves pretty decent food, whether you opt for the grilled catch of the day…

…or a gooey, delicious wood-oven baked pizza.

And let’s not forget the tropical cocktails, as sweet as the views…

Now that you’ve covered the north of the island in 2-3 days, it’s time to venture in the ‘unknown’ south, as hopefully you’ve booked your stay for a little more than a short weekend? Aruba is a small island so by going south, I really mean driving about 45 minutes to reach the other end – easy!

You’ll find a pretty beach at the southern tip of Aruba called Baby Beach due to its shallow and tranquil waters, perfect for the kids!

One of Aruba’s very unique feature is its trees, which are dramatically bent by the constant and super strong winds that blow on the island.

Not too far from Baby Beach you’ll find the town of San Nicolas.

Loving the Art Deco vibe!

But what is most impressive is the street art! Once a forgotten city, San Nicolas has been transformed since 2016 with the help of numerous local and international artists who created Aruba’s only Mural District.

Simply walk around the center and let yourself be wowed by the incredibly gorgeous murals popping up everywhere.

Yes, there are over 40 murals, but they’re all concentrated over a few blocks so you really only need about 20 minutes to see them all.

Hopefully that art walk will have opened up your appetite and you’ll be ready to go join the queue at Zeerovers.

The casual eatery is the best place to enjoy seafood with a view with its location right on the water.

You’ll have maybe two or three choices among the catches of the day, decide how hungry you are as you’ll have to pay by the weight (it’s cash only) and pick a few side dishes.

Grab a cold beer at the bar and sit down at one of the picnic tables to wait for your simple and amazingly delicious dinner.

Hands down the best dining experience you can have here – it doesn’t get any fresher or any more local than this!

Lastly, whether waiting for your flight back home or just to check some restaurants, spend a few minutes wandering around the old part of Oranjestad, Aruba’s capital. The Plaza Daniel Leo in particular and the surrounding streets are a rainbow display of old Dutch colonial architecture.