Americas Travels US

Colonial-era Stroll in Portsmouth, NH

November 26, 2019

The warm summer days on the coast of New England seem far behind now, though I’m glad it took me that long to publish this post as I get to relive this charming town on a cold, late fall day. With history around every corner (it was settled in the 1600s) and a thriving food and cultural scene, it’s fair to say Portsmouth, New Hampshire is a coastal gem worth exploring.

Portsmouth, NH - Colonial house

It’s an easy day trip from Boston although you’ll want to stay at least a night or two to make the most of it. While there are a few key sites to check off your tourist list, the small town beckons you to stroll its quiet neighborhoods (almost everything is within walking distance – fantastic!) and take in the myriads of Georgian homes gracing the streets.

Portsmouth, NH - Historical houses

The south waterfront area is particularly picturesque. 18th century homes with clapboard sidings in a rainbow of colors will quickly zip you back in time.

Portsmouth NH Historic District
Portsmouth NH Historic District
Portsmouth NH Historic District

You’ll undoubtedly notice the more upscale Wentworth-Gardner House on your stroll which sits on the waterfront. It’s a National Historic Landmark which you can tour to get a peak at the design and architecture as well as learn a bit of history. But don’t spend too much time in here as you’ll be doing a lot of house visits shortly…

Get a fresh breath of coastal air and a peak at the nearby harbor, still pretty busy these days. Water played a big part in Portsmouth’s history as it was built on the Piscataqua River exclusively for the King’s commerce – to build British ships.

Porstmouth NH Harbour

Walk along the water to reach Prescott Park and its formal gardens which were in full bloom when I visited in September.

Prescott Park - Portsmouth

You’ll find gorgeous oasis of calm with fountains and benches to rest for a bit.

An old cemetery features some fascinating gravestones (skulls and crossbones were in vogue) belonging to the elite from back in the days.

When lunchtime comes, the buzzing old harbour is the place to be. Portsmouth has a huge choice of amazing and modern restaurants all within a few blocks of each other so having a great meal here is no issue and will be a highlight of your stay. For a quick and delicious seafood fix, check out the Old Ferry Landing on the docks.

Old Ferry Landing - Portsmouth

The old seafood shack has a large outdoor terrace so you can watch the boats go by, super friendly staff, and most importantly a very decent menu of local seafood specialties. Seeing the popularity of the place and the turnover, you know it’s all insanely fresh and you can taste it too. I got the fried scallops basket and can still remember biting into their smooth, buttery flesh… the stuff of dreams.

Fried scallops - Portsmouth NH

Now you should be ready to tackle Portsmouth’s main attraction: The Strawbery Banke Museum. An absolute ‘do not miss’ in the heart of the historic downtown area, this living indoor-outdoor museum packs a punch within its 10 acres. You might have walked by on your morning stroll without realizing it…

Strawbery Banke Museum

Opened in 1958, the complex of 36 buildings spanning 300 years of American history is considered to be the first urban preservation project in the United States. Plan for a few hours here so you can explore at a leisurely pace and partake in some of the ‘living’ demonstrations.

Strawbery Banke Museum

Besides the houses and buildings, there are eight well maintained gardens to wander through, some aesthetic and others recreated to showcase the edibles grown a few centuries ago.

I think the last time I experienced a similar outdoor museum was during my school years! I must say I really enjoyed the exploration, the ability to come in and out of the buildings in whichever order you chose, and all the details that brought to life Portsmouth from the late 1600s until the 1950s.

The randomness of the visits also meant I would walk into a 1950s living room one minute…

…and step into a 17th century wood-framed English house the next.

Sherburne House 1695-1703
Wheelwright House 1780

While some structures are more modest, others like the Chase House, which belonged to a merchant family, have incredible architecture and woodwork which are beautifully accompanied by period furniture and costumes.

Chase House 1762

Cooking demonstrations are also taking place – ah, the smell of an open hearth!

Fragments of original tapestry have stood the test of time in more ways than we thought. What was fashionable then is making a comeback and I for one would love to adorn a wall with such an exquisite pastoral scene – wouldn’t you?

The time warp is real when walking into the general store…

General store - Strawbery Banke Museum

Brands are familiar still, but not the prices!

General store - Strawbery Banke Museum

A few buildings have costumed role-players which add to the history and frankly, it’s just fun to play along! I had an enlightening conversation with the store owner’s daughter Ines who was mending some apron while checking in on clients in the store (connected to their house of course). A rewarding and charming afternoon it was…and possibly the best 300 years of history telling you can get in New Hampshire!

Back in the 21st century, there’s a lively downtown area filled with great restaurants and shops to explore.

And more beautiful houses to admire from the street.

You’ll need a drink after all that walking and I can’t think of a better place than The Wilder. The gastropub makes the best craft cocktails in town and their food looked really good too even though I didn’t indulge.

Inside The Wilder

Just up the street you’ll find The Franklin, a modern tavern and oyster house with glowing reviews. I was intrigued…

Retro look, very decent cocktail menu and a shucking station greeted me at the door and I knew this would be a good dinner.

Of course, the local oysters are a marvel and you should try every one they have available.

The rest of the menu is tapas-style and won’t disappoint.

Roasted Brussels sprouts with Vietnamese sauce and sesame seeds
Albondigas in tomato sauce with charred broccoli

Before heading out the next day, get your caffeine fix at Caffe Kilim. The Turkish coffee shop is a local favorite and has a super cozy interior where you can also shop for Middle Eastern goods while having breakfast.

Of course, the strong Turkish coffee is the reason to come here!

One last stop before hitting the road as it wouldn’t be a true New England getaway without that iconic shot… There’s a lovely lighthouse a 5 minutes drive away in New Castle with gorgeous harbor views and plenty of coastal pedigree.

Breakfast / Brunch Recipes

Monkey Bubble Bread

October 27, 2019

This one is for every cinnamon rolls lovers out there who wish they could have a bite of the buttery dough throughout the day… The Monkey Bread is a genius US creation made from baking together loads of tiny balls of sweet brioche dough coated in cinnamon sugar. The result is an insanely addictive pull-apart loaf equally brilliant for breakfast as it is for snacking throughout the day. As often is the case, I turned to the guys at Baked, one of my favorite bakeries in Brooklyn, for this foolproof recipe.

A lot of Monkey Bread recipes call for store-bought buttermilk biscuit dough though I must say making your own is super easy and you’ll be rewarded tenfold! Once your dough has proofed, the only time-consuming portion of the recipe is to form little balls of dough (think around 60!), dip them in melted butter and roll them in a mixture of brown sugar and cinnamon. The coating is what will create the amazing cinnamon glaze when they bake.

Monkey Bread

Layer them all in a bundt pan, proof one last time, and then it’s baking time!

Monkey Bread in Bundt Pan

You won’t believe your eyes, and the smell in your kitchen, once you invert your bundt pan to unveil the work of art.

Voila – cinnamon rolls in ball form! This bread is a real test of willpower so hopefully you have some people around to help you pick at it. The soft, gooey and sweet balls are the perfect ‘eat with your hands’ brunch and should last you for a few cups of coffee.

If any is left, remember that this bread is better enjoyed warm so just pop it back into the oven for a few minutes every time you want to indulge. I doubt it’ll last long anyway!

A sinful cinnamon sugar treat, this Monkey Bread can be both a showstopper breakfast or a fun dessert for the table. Regardless of the time of day, I bet you won't be able to stop eating the soft and sweet brioche dough balls.

Prep Time:90 min
Total Time:200 min
Cuisine:Brunch
Yield:One 10-inch Bundt
Method:Baking
Preparation
1. Generously spray the inside of a 10-inch Bundt pan with nonstick cooking spray.

2. In a small saucepan, warm your milk to slightly above room temperature, then remove it from the heat, add the yeast, and whisk to dissolve. (Do not warm it beyond 110 degrees F or you will kill the yeast).

3. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the flour, sugar, and salt until combined.

4. In a small bowl, beat the egg with a fork and add it to the dry ingredients. Mix on low speed until combined.

5. Keeping the mixer on low, slowly stream in the milk until combined. Add the melted butter and mix until the dough comes together. Replace the paddle attachment with the dough hook attachment. Continue to mix on medium speed until the dough becomes silky and tacky, but not sticky, 8 to 10 minutes. The dough should mound together and easily come off the bottom of the mixing bowl. (If the dough is too wet, add some flour. If it is too dry, add a tiny bit of water.)

6. Spray the bottom and sides of a large bowl with cooking spray. Place the dough in the bowl and roll it around to make sure it is completely covered in oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a dish towel and let it rest in a warm area until the dough has doubled in size, approximately 1 hour.

7. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper.

8. Use your clean hands to push down and deflate the dough. Remove it from the bowl and pat it into a rough circle approximately 8 inches diameter. Use a bench knife or serrated knife to cut dough into 1- to 1½-inch pieces (about ½ ounce each)--alternatively, use your hands to pinch apart the dough. Roll the pieces into balls (they don’t have to be perfectly round). Place the balls on the sheet pan (you will get about 60 pieces in all). Cover the balls lightly with plastic wrap.

9. To make the Cinnamon Sugar Coating: In a small bowl, stir together the sugar and cinnamon. Place the melted butter In a separate bowl.

10. To Assemble the Bread: Remove the plastic wrap from the dough halls and dip one ball in the melted butter. Let the excess butter drip back into the bowl, roll the ball in the brown sugar mixture, and place it in the Bundt pan. Continue this process with each ball, until you have several layers, arranging them as if you are building a brick wall.

11. Wrap the Bundt pan tightly in plastic wrap. Set it in a warm area of the house for about 1 hour, or until the dough balls have doubled in size and appear puffy.

12. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Remove the plastic and bake the Bundt until the top layer is deep brown and the caramel coating begins to bubble around the edges, about 30 minutes.

13. Cool the bread for 5 minutes, then turn it out directly onto a platter and serve warm. Should you have any leftovers (this is rare, I promise you), simply reheat them in a 300-degree oven until warm to the touch.
Ingredients
1¼ cups whole milk
2 teaspoons instant yeast
4 cups all purpose flour
5 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 egg
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1¼ cups firmly packed dark brown sugar
2 teaspoons cinnamon
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
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Americas Travels US

Coastal Escape in Rockport, MA

October 11, 2019

A quick New England getaway for kissing goodbye to summer led me to the artsy coastal town of Rockport in Massachusetts. A favorite vacation spot less than an hour’s drive north of Boston, its popularity thankfully doesn’t dampen its appeal or its photogenic quality.

Rockport Massachusetts

Get down first to the harbor to feel its pulse and relish in some rare moment of tranquility.

Rockport harbor - Massachusetts

You likely won’t be alone exploring Rockport’s main attraction of Bearskin Neck and that’s all good. The peninsula jutting out into the harbor is full of quirky shops, restaurants and art galleries that seem to put a smile on everyone’s face, making for a very pleasant stroll.

Rockport harbor - Massachusetts

Even if what’s inside the shops doesn’t interest you, the buildings themselves are a fine backdrop to any curious wanderer, with some houses dating as far back as 300 years ago.

Rockport harbor - Massachusetts

Another reason to get excited about a walk in these parts is to join the line at Roy Moore Lobster Co.

Rockport harbor - Massachusetts

The tiny operation has been here since 1918 and is totally worth the hype and short wait. While it might look like takeout-only at first glance, you only need to walk past the jovial employees to find yourself on their back patio. If it’s full, as it often is, you have a scenic harbor perfect for an impromptu picnic.

Roy Moore Lobster - Rockport
Roy Moore Lobster - Rockport

Order a caught-that-day steamed lobster roll and anything else you fancy (they have clam chowder, shrimp cocktail, smoked mackerel, etc.) and take your lunch outside.

Roy Moore Lobster - Rockport

There’s the breeze, seagulls and clapping of the water to accompany this quintessential New England summer meal. And this still being an active fishing harbor, you might also have the chance to observe lobstermen hauling their traps while you enjoy a glorious sample of their catch.

Rockport harbor - Massachusetts

Notice that red fishing shack that seems to hug the spotlight wherever you look? If it seems familiar, it’s no coincidence. What is commonly called “Motif #1” has the reputation of being one of the most painted and photographed building in New England.

Rockport Motif #1

The original from 1884 has been destroyed by blizzards and storms over the years but is always rebuilt as the symbol of the town.

Rockport Motif #1
Rockport harbor - Massachusetts

Walk to the end of the peninsula to get to “the point” where you’ll enjoy great views of the open seas and passing boats.

Rockport harbor - Massachusetts

From there, get back to the main street for some more shopping, although I much prefer wandering the impossibly cute residential streets for a peek at New England Coastal architecture…

Rockport - Massachusetts
Rockport - Massachusetts
Rockport - Massachusetts
Breakfast / Brunch Recipes

Poached Eggs with a Yogurt and Paprika Dressing

September 16, 2019

I just can’t seem to get enough of discovering new Middle Eastern breakfasts these days. After my Yogurt and Za’atar Granola Parfait phase, my eyes landed on this dish of poached eggs in a lightly spiced yogurt sauce and I was hooked. I’m thinking it’s the turn to a savory start to my day that feels so novel and exciting… Fret not, my sweet tooth is never too far behind and will surely return as fast as the leaves are starting to change color these days!

But for now, let me introduce you to çilbir – a humble and incredibly flavorful Turkish breakfast made of poached eggs on a bed of yogurt, drizzled with spicy butter.

Poached Eggs with a Yogurt and Paprika Dressing

It’s a quick and simple dish to prepare with just a few ingredients and key to this tasty bowl is the butter… Melted gently and mixed with sweet paprika (or Aleppo pepper if you have some for an even more authentic taste), it not only adds a gorgeous splash of colour on the all-white canvas but it also brings a superb depth of flavor.

Poached Eggs with a Yogurt and Paprika Dressing

For the rest well you simply have to poach your eggs – there are instructions below but if you have your own foolproof method feel free to ignore them! – and gently nestle them over a generous portion of tangy yogurt. Drizzle the hot butter, snip some fresh mint over the top and voila!

Poached Eggs with a Yogurt and Paprika Dressing

Get hold of a slice of crusty bread to help you mop up all that yolky and creamy goodness and get ready for a revelation – or your new favorite alternative to shakshuka!

Poached Eggs with a Yogurt and Paprika Dressing
Poached Eggs with a Yogurt and Paprika Dressing
Soft and savory, this poached eggs and yogurt bowl is a warming start to your day. Pair it with some crusty bread for the perfect textural combo.

Total Time:35 min
Cuisine:Middle Eastern
Yield:4 servings
Preparation
1. Half fill a medium saucepan with salted water and add the vinegar. Bring to the boil and turn down the heat so that it is just gently simmering. The water must not be boiling vigorously.

2. One at a time, crack the eggs into a small bowl and gently slide them into the simmering water. Do not cook more than 2 at a time. If an egg seems to be going wrong and isn't keeping its shape, scoop it up and start again. You'll need to cook the eggs for 3-4 minutes for a soft yolk, and at least 5 minutes for a hard yolk. Transfer the eggs with a slotted spoon to a large bowl of hot water to keep warm.

3. If desired, stir the garlic into the yogurt. Heat the butter until sizzling in a small skillet over low heat. Add and stir the paprika for 30 seconds (don't let it burn). For each serving, use the slotted spoon to transfer 2 eggs to a bowl. Top with the yogurt, drizzle with the paprika butter, and sprinkle with mint. Season and serve.
Ingredients
1/4 cup white distilled vinegar
8 large eggs
1 garlic clove, minced (optional)
1 2/3 cup yogurt
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 teaspoons sweet paprika
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint
Sea salt
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Wine & Waterfalls around Seneca Lake, New York

August 26, 2019

If you need a break from summer in NYC and the crowded Hamptons, a weekend getaway to the Finger Lakes is calling. Just a few hours drive will bring you to one of the best wine regions in the country with gorgeous scenery, a thriving food scene, and plenty of outdoor pursuits to get your mind off the city grind.

The Finger Lakes region is quite vast with 11 long and narrow lakes giving its name to this beautiful upstate destination. Attempting to cover it all over a weekend would be crazy so you’re better to concentrate on a single of the larger lakes – and I’d hastily recommend Seneca Lake. It’s the largest of the Finger Lakes but most importantly, it’s home to the biggest wine trail in New York State and three of the best parks in the region.

Seneca Lake
View of Seneca Lake from Geneva

There are a lot of wonderful towns around the lake but you should base yourself either at the southern tip in Watkins Glen or the northern one in Geneva for the best access to all there is to do here.

Geneva - Seneca Lake
Geneva Lakefront Park

The bigger of the two though still pretty quaint, Geneva has a beautiful lakefront state park and a growing culinary scene that make a good case for staying here. Even if you’re not spending the night, make sure you try one of the F.L.X. spots, whether it’s the intimate farm-to-table dinner of F.L.X. Table or the fried chicken and waffle creations from F.L.X. Fry Bird.

F.L.X. Fry Bird
The ‘Dressed’ fried chicken sandwich with corn and pickle salad from F.L.X. Fry Bird

With just about 40 wineries surrounding Seneca Lake, the hardest part of planning your trip will be choosing which ones you wish to stop at (and who’s driving!). Going down the western side of the lake from Geneva, I made sure to stop at Shaw Vineyard near Himrod after reading much praise about the artisanal operations.

Shaw Vineyards

The sustainably minded winery hosts tastings in its small and rustic barn-like room and is notable for having a great selection of reds in a region known mostly for white wine. The small production and cellar-aging (often five years or more for reds) means the bottles here aren’t the cheapest but the complexity and character of each bottle makes this a great stop on any wine tasting route.

Shaw Vineyards

A very different experience awaits at Lakewood Vineyards, a family-owned winery producing wine and mead.

Lakewood Vineyards

The outdoor patio with scenic views of the vineyard and the lake is a big draw, and so is the wide variety of wine on offer. It’s the kind of winery that has something for everyone and many different tasting flights from dry to sweet and everything in between.

Lakewood Vineyards

Sample a bunch, buy a bottle and some snacks and settle at a picnic table to enjoy the magnificent views. I fell in love with their dry Riesling, their sparkling and their Cabernet Franc and left with quite a few bottles to fill the trunk of my car!

Lakewood Vineyards

I honestly never thought I would sample such fine wines up here, and apparently the answer lies in the topography… It has been observed that the large size of Seneca Lake moderates the temperature which creates ideal conditions for growing grapes on the surrounding land. That’s the reason Seneca Lake has more wineries in the region than any other lakes and is now widely considered by winemakers to have the region’s best terroir.

Lakewood Vineyards

When you need a break from all that drinking, just past the southern tip of the lake you’ll find the small, charming village of Montour Falls. Its main attraction is a big waterfall called Shequaga that suddenly appears in between houses in a spectacular and surprising effect.

Montour Falls

A small park with benches allows you to linger for a while and admire that frothy cascade pouring down the cliff. The resemblance to a lacy wedding veil won’t be caused by the amount of wine you’ve ingested I can assure you…it’s nature’s own striking show once again.

A few minutes drive back up north and you’ll find yourself in the town of Watkins Glen, a very fine lakeside home base from where to hit all the wonders around Seneca Lake.

Seneca Lake
Seneca Lake South Shore
Watkins Glen Marina
Watkins Glen Harbor

Most people who have heard of Watkins Glen are more familiar with its racing history of which you’ll find numerous reminders around town. Nicknamed ‘The Glen‘, its automobile race track was once known around the world as the home of the Formula One Grand Prix as well as a number of other famous racing events.

Watkins Glen

The new face of Watkins Glen though is very much centered around the burgeoning wine industry and fantastic outdoor adventures available nearby. For a local taste, I stopped by the highly praised Graft Wine + Cider Bar on the main street (*it has unfortunately recently closed its doors after four years in service – its owners wanting to do something different). The casual eatery offered wine and drinks all made in New York State with a daily changing menu of locally sourced sharing plates.

Graft Wine + Cider Bar
Graft Wine + Cider Bar
Graft Wine + Cider Bar
Burrata and asparagus
Scallop ceviche

The next day, wake up as early as you can for what I consider the highlight of the region – a hike through Watkins Glen State Park. I confess that this park only is what brought me here, over 4 hours drive from my home, and it was more than worth it.

Watkins Glen Gorge Trail

The most famous park in the Finger Lakes has its entrance right in the middle of the village and will undoubtedly blow your mind. You’ll want to devote at least 1.5 hours to exploring the world-class Gorge Trail and my early start recommendation will be the best gift you can give yourself around these parts.

Watkins Glen Gorge Trail

The Gorge Trail starts climbing up right after the entrance of the park and will show you some of Nature’s most spellbinding work along the way.

Watkins Glen Gorge Trail

7am – pretty much the only time in high season you’ll have the trail to yourself and it’ll mean the world to not only your photographs but to be able to enjoy this grand spectacle in peace and quiet… The trail follows the glen’s stream which descends 400 feet past 200-foot cliffs, creating 19 waterfalls along its course.

Watkins Glen Gorge Trail

For 1.3 miles, you’ll wind your way over and under all of these waterfalls in a light, color and sound show that can’t truly be captured by mere photos.

While the hundreds of stone steps you’ll be climbing are man-made, the erosion of the cliffs surely isn’t and it’s incredible to see the sheer size of the chasm created over thousands of years.

Watkins Glen Gorge Trail

With the early morning sun bouncing off every which way and water splashing against the cliff sides, rainbows are a regular occurrence and only adds to the magic of the place.

Watkins Glen Gorge Trail

Approaching the thundering Cavern Cascade…

Watkins Glen Gorge Trail

…if you’ve never stood behind a waterfall you’ll get your chance here.

Watkins Glen Gorge Trail
Watkins Glen Gorge Trail

The wide setting of ‘The Cathedral’ is an imposing sight after the closed-in and narrow start of the trail, and things are just beginning to get grander.

Watkins Glen Gorge Trail - Cathedral
Watkins Glen Gorge Trail - Bridge

It’s hard to explain the palpitations felt of being a tiny individual in this stunning setting, approaching what she knows is the exact shot that draws everyone for hundreds of miles to this little state park. I can still feel the excitement as I slowly made my way up these narrow steps in the cool morning air…

…to witness the Rainbow Falls in all their glory. No. Word. I’m not exactly sure how long I stood there – it never felt like enough time to capture it all.

Watkins Glen Gorge Trail
Watkins Glen Gorge Trail
Watkins Glen Gorge Trail

With a few photo and contemplative stops, you can hike the trail up in about an hour and then you’ll have the choice to catch a shuttle at the top end of it to bring you back to the entrance, or walk the Gorge Trail back in reverse. I obviously advise you to do the latter. You’ll find many angles you’ve missed on the way up, the light will have changed dramatically, and you’ll be able to wave to the hordes of tourists who didn’t wake up early enough to have this natural wonder all to themselves for a spell…