Considered the most important tourist destination on Ethiopia’s northern historic circuit, Lalibela is usually considered a fly-in visit from Addis Ababa which offers daily flights. For us though, who were enjoying a road trip from the north, we made our way from Bahir Dar to Lalibela via concrete to not miss a single stretch of gorgeous countryside.

It takes a full day to cover the distance and as everywhere else we drove through in Ethiopia, the scenery makes the time fly as we pass countless charming alpine villages.

We even observed a long funeral procession which in Ethiopia is a large community event with up to 1,000 attendees.

High-altitude vistas start appearing in the second half of the day and grace our windows with jaw-dropping views of mountains and fertile valleys.

We arrive in Lalibela right around nightfall after making some quick stops to capture today’s last rays.

We wake up at Sora Lodge, a welcoming Inn built on a slope close to the heart of the city.

Views from the bedroom have us up and ready in minutes to snap the surrounding panorama.

The location really can’t be beat at 2,600 m altitude. It gives the best vantage point to admire the vast landscape of wild, craggy peaks surrounding us.

Whether enjoying a cocktail at the bar or eating at the onsite restaurant, there’s really no escaping from the spectacular views.

With a busy day in front of us, we sipped an excellent cup of coffee and started to head into town.

Lalibela is a little town of about 15,000 people in a stunning location with enviable weather year round. With a good infrastructure (i.e. hotels and restaurants) above what we’ve seen elsewhere, it’s a great place to spend a few days in, enjoying the vistas and the food in between the popular sites.

The reason it’s the one place that no visitor to Ethiopia should leave out of their itinerary though has nothing to do with the setting, and all to do with its famous complex of churches chiselled from pink volcanic rock.

Often referred to as the unofficial “eight wonder of the world” and lately as the “next Machu Picchu”, the stunning cluster of 13 medieval churches and chapels will surely leave you spellbound. Each one of them was carved from a single, gigantic, block of stone about 800 years ago by an Ethiopian King named Lalibela.

And they are huge – some higher than 10 m! We felt dwarfed standing on the ground, heads tilted up to grasp the enormity of it all. No two are alike and all are minutely decorated with carved windows, intricate engravings and even paintings. The first one we visited, Bet Medhane Alem, is the most architecturally impressive and is apparently the world’s largest rock-hewn monolith, covering almost 800m².

It seemed even more grandiose in the morning light.

While the popularity of the site has increased tremendously, what I found to be most special was that we weren’t touring some abandoned historical ruins from a dead civilization. All the churches here are still very much in service daily as they have been for at least the last 800 years.

Pious Ethiopians often walk hundreds of kilometers in bare feet to receive blessings here, in this holiest of Christian shrine. Every church we entered had priests and Ethiopians praying, the swishing sound of robes mixing with the clicks from the cameras.

The interior is rather plain, though light bouncing off the windows and colorful rugs add life to the austere, cathedral-like building.

All around the site, we could see some of the traditional houses of Lalibela, very unique two-storey circular stone structures hugging the steep slopes of the town.

Navigating the complex is like going down into a subterranean village since all the churches are carved below ground level. It gives an interesting perspective for sure and I don’t need to mention that comfortable shoes are a must. You’ll be hiking up and down narrow and sometimes exposed paths the whole day…

White-robed hermits that stay in tiny cells carved in the surrounding walls emerge, bible in hand. These moments and scenes are probably very similar to what was taking place here hundreds of years ago and that’s what make Lalibela feels so alive and real…you’re living it.

In the tiny chapel of Bet Meskel (House of the Cross), a priest proudly displays the chapel’s gold cross, a prime photo opp we would get to witness a few more times today.

Bet Maryam is thought to be the first church to be built at Lalibela and is a particular highlight due to its richly decorated interior.

Even the facade showcases a beautiful relief of two riders fighting a dragon above the entrance.

Inside, early frescoes are vividly carved and painted all over the ceiling, columns, arches and upper walls.

To get from one church to the other, we have to navigate a maze of tunnels and passages that connects the various clusters.

Another church, another gorgeous golden cross… I’m particularly loving the fine lace detail on that one.

One church is forbidden to women as we’ve witnessed before in Ethiopia – the church of Bet Golgotha. It is mostly remarkable because of its seven life-size reliefs of saints carved around its walls, which thankfully our male guide was kind enough to take a picture of!

Lunch was in a pleasant, shaded hotel courtyard serving a plethora of Ethiopian dishes. It was my first try of Fir Fir, a popular breakfast dish of torn injera bread fried in butter and berbere spices, here served with chicken and egg. Massive, the plate could have fed three or four of us!

As usual, there were also many vegetarian dishes and sauteed vegetables ready to be scooped up with fresh injera.

A strong coffee after a big lunch was needed before continuing our active exploration of Lalibela’s churches.

While we had started in the morning with the northern cluster of churches, the afternoon brought us to the southern cluster only 250m away. Bet Emanuel, below, is considered by art historians to be the finest and most precisely worked church in Lalibela.

Partially faded wall friezes can be seen in this cluster, medieval depictions of wise men or saints?

There are deep trenches around these parts and a lot more greenery.

Our guide led us up a path, through a gate, and into a side of Lalibela not usually featured on maps…

We had ventured into the nun’s quarters! Signs of domestic life and lush gardens so close to the rock churches were surprising to say the least.

Hobbit-like houses with tiny doors lined the twisted alleys of the ‘neighborhood’, everything in such close distance it was hard not to feel like an intruder. Still, incredible to be standing here, knowing how old these streets are and the life of devotion these nuns have committed themselves to.

The southern cluster is definitely more of a hodgepodge and we were thankful to have someone to follow. Be prepared for very dark tunnels, dubious staircases and narrow trenches leading to small cavern-like structures.

Bet Mercurios is a proper cave church, still attached to the rock, and has unfortunately suffered from the ravages of time.

There’s only one more site to see which lies some 300m away in isolation from the other churches. You’ll have to walk a bit and cross the main road, passing by typical houses.

Despite all the photos I had seen, I can honestly say that my first sight of Bet Giyorgis aka Church of Saint George is forever ingrained in my mind. Wow.

It’s the only church in Lalibela not covered by a protective shelter and for the first time you can fully appreciate the incredible work of art it represents. Seeing this gigantic cross peaking out from the ground is mind blowing. No wonder it has become Ethiopia’s most iconic sight.

Measuring close to 15m in height, it is imposing for sure, but it’s its symmetrical cruciform shape that is most impressive.

Lalibela’s masterpiece seen from below.

The interior is surprisingly small and unadorned but the height gives the space an atmosphere you won’t find in the other churches.

Perfectly proportioned and without the need for any support whatsoever, it is visually superb.

Go as we did during the last hour of sunshine for that amazing golden hue and to capture the rock in all its splendor, from its pinky undertones to its yellow and green effects of time passing.

Whichever angle you look at it will photograph well, she’s that pretty. Let’s hope she continues to age with such grace and beauty for centuries to come…

No better way to wrap up this day than with a sunset back at Sora Lodge. It’s the end of the tour and that view simply sums it up so well – Ethiopia, you were a surprising delight in every way.

With the castles of Gondar behind us, we made the 3-hour journey down to our next destination of Bahir Dar, passing beautiful scenery with fields of bright-yellow daisies.

We stopped en route to visit one of the main markets in the area to check out the local offerings.

To say it was packed would be an understatement. Surely everyone living within a 10 miles radius was here today as markets are well known gathering places in Africa – you get both your shopping and gossiping done in one go!

Carefully stepping through the crowd and looking down at the ground soon unveiled a myriad of goods for sale.

I always get so much pleasure visiting local markets in every country I go to, not only to learn about their eating habits but also to get immersed in the local life and dynamics.

Back on the road with a few more packages, we continue to pass through farmland and villages.

There was a goat market going on – not exactly a souvenir shopping stop so we kept on driving!

The landscape kept on shifting, offering features as unique as this rock formation which is supposedly called ‘the devil’s nose’.

We arrived in the gorgeous midday sun in Bahir Dar, the third largest city in Ethiopia on the shore of Lake Tana. This beautiful lake is the biggest in the country at 68 km wide and 73 km long and we immediately got on a boat to explore it.

As if on cue (actually it surely was), a man on a small boat quickly appeared followed by a squadron of pelicans, feeding them to keep them around for our enjoyment.

Such large birds with such enormous mouths made quite a spectacle, fighting for one little fish…

Besides its pretty shoreline and fresh, cooling breeze, Lake Tana is famous for its 30+ islands, on many of which are found beautiful churches and monasteries.

Docking on our first island, we started walking through a lush forest with flowering shrubs and coffee trees.

Local artisans have set up shop all along the trail and you can watch the making of (and buy) handicrafts such as silver cross pendants…

…vibrant paintings…

…and traditional cloth and shawls.

After about 20 minutes of walking, we got to the entrance gate of Ura Kidane Mihret.

The most visited and the most beautiful of all the churches around Lake Tana, the 16th century circular church seems pretty ordinary from the outside.

Once you step through its doors though, you’ll find a rather unique interior.

Look closely and you’ll find some rather intriguing drawings on the doors – were they sketches ready to be painted and never got finished?

The colorful murals immediately brought to mind the church of Debre Birham Selassie which we had visited the day before in Gondar. Similar style of religious paintings adorned the walls, vividly depicting the medieval times in Ethiopia (which means be prepared for some gory details, severed heads, blood spatter, etc.).

There’s not much else to see apart from the frescoes, but if you let your eyes wander long enough, you’ll find some more artistry hidden in the corners of windows and door frames.

As we made our way back to the boat, I paid less attention to the vendors and more to the trees around us, a few of them playing host to cheeky monkeys.

Another quick boat ride and we reached the similar though slightly less ornate church of Azwa Maryam.

Nearly identical in style, a short visit will let you appreciate the small differences and the careful preservation.

Besides visiting the churches and monasteries on the lake, another must when in Bahir Dar is to make your way to see the Blue Nile Falls. About an hour’s drive from the city center on a scenic countryside road, you’ll hop on a quick boat ride to follow the Blue Nile river downstream from Lake Tana (where it originates).

A 1 km path through a village brought us to one of Africa’s most spectacular waterfalls, only really true if you time your visit between May and October when the flow is at its peak.

The falls have diminished in size since the build of an adjacent hydro-electric plant which unpredictably reduces the flow of water. If you’re lucky, you’ll get a good spray from the river plunging over a sheer 45-meter precipice and a close enough visual of what has been known locally for centuries as Tis Isat aka “Water that Smokes”.

It’s the perfect viewpoint for a cup of hot and freshly brewed coffee.

There are a few walking trails around and a suspension bridge that brings you to clifftop vantage points.

We enjoyed the crisp and clear morning before heading back to Bahir Dar to relax by the lake and enjoy the palm-tree lined promenade. Tomorrow is a long travel day to reach Ethiopia’s most famous cultural site…do you know what it is? 😉

After the highs of the Simien Mountains, we came down slightly in altitude to the ‘comfortable’ 2,300 m elevation of Gondar. Arriving in the town’s center, lined with simple buildings from the Italian era, one can’t miss Gondar’s most famous historical figure proudly standing atop the roundabout: Emperor Fasilides. You’ll see his name quite often in the former capital of Ethiopia of which he was the founder.

Gondar has an incredibly rich history and a number of impressive sites to visit which we’ll get to in a moment, but it’s worth noting just how pleasant the city is to explore despite its considerable size (population is estimated at 600,000).

There’s a real laid-back atmosphere, tons of greenery, cattle sharing the road with tuk-tuk and remnants of festivities everywhere – it essentially feels like a huge welcoming village.

Remains of the fortress city Gondar once was lend a medieval air to the compact center.

Gatherings are joyful and frequent, whether it’s a school graduation with parents and family eagerly waiting for young students…

…or the morning church service held in the plaza as it’s probably the only place able to fit everybody!

At the heart of this charming town, you’ll find the impressive royal compound of Fasil Ghebbi which is also known as the Camelot of Africa.

Staring at a cluster of medieval castles and palaces is not what one usually expects when sightseeing in Africa and yet here they are – proofs of Ethiopia’s long-running royal dynasty.

The UNESCO site dates from Gondar’s imperial heydays in the 17th and 18th centuries when it was established as Ethiopia’s capital. For over two centuries it was home to a series of emperors, religious tensions, bloody royal murders and all the scandal you can expect from a medieval empire.

900 meters of walls and towers encircle the fortress city which contained three castles, three churches and a few other notable buildings such as a library and banquet hall.

Most buildings are well preserved, but I love a good old crumbly one which lets your imagination picture what it once was…

The fact that they are all standing still is marvelous considering all the British wars they’ve survived.

Lion cages reputedly still held live lions until the last one died in 1992 – entertainment or more obscure uses you think?

Restoration is ongoing which is great to see, and parts of the process can be observed in a corner of the compound.

As with everything else we’ve witnessed so far in Ethiopia, it’s all manual as workers diligently break large stones into tiny pieces with only a hammer, their arms and legs covered in dust.

We ended our visit at the stables and the adjoining banquet hall, both very well preserved. We can easily imagine the lavish soirees that must have taken place here.

Pops of colors as we exit the royal enclosure with the inevitable market stalls and coffee vendors.

Beautiful poinsettia trees are adding to the colorful streets.

Next stop on our royal tour: Fasilidas’s Bath. The emperor’s bathing palace is in a beautiful setting, a private retreat from the busy city center surrounded by greenery and wildlife.

It was said to be the emperor’s second residence.

While the pool is dried most of the time, it is still filled with water once a year to celebrate Timkat, the Epiphany in the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. During this remarkable ceremony, which is a traditional re-enactment of the baptism of Christ, thousands of white-robed worshipers plunge into the pool to be blessed and sprinkled with holy water by colorfully attired priests. It must be quite a sight to see!

The walls, overgrown with tree roots, reminded me of the ruins of Angkor Wat…

…or perhaps a made-up throne straight out of GoT.

You won’t be able to miss the giant fig tree on your way out – possibly as old as the bath itself.

Last but not least, the jewel in the crown of Gondar was saved for day’s end and is not to be missed: Debre Berhan Selassie.

One of Ethiopia’s most beautiful churches is enclosed by a high stone wall (like many buildings around here as you would have noticed) and surrounded by towering juniper trees.

Notice the unique architecture made of brick and bamboo and the medallion on the roof surrounded by seven ostrich eggs signifying the seven days of the creation…

…but what’s most arresting about this church is by far its sumptuously decorated interior.

Every walls, corners, and the ceiling are completely covered with painted murals, all original with their colors intact. It’s truly impressive and no wonder it is considered a masterpiece of the Gondarene School of Art.

Biblical scenes are vividly depicted all around, covering the life of Christ and various saints.

It’s the ceiling though that will probably catch your eyes first or perhaps trigger a joyful smile as you contemplate the 80 angel faces looking down on you in neat rows. It’s probably the most famous ceiling in all of Ethiopia and the most photographed too!

In stark contrast with the cherubic faces above, a rather scary rendering of the devil surrounded by flames is to be found right next to the main door.

A perfect end to the day with a royal feast at the Four Sisters restaurant in the center of Gondar.

The buffet of traditional food is exquisite, the service fantastic with a coffee ceremony to accompany dessert (teff beignets were a hit) and it’s also where you’ll be able to taste the local honey wine – a sweet and delicious treat.

Leaving Aksum behind us to continue the historical Northern circuit of Ethiopia, it wasn’t long before the road ahead started climbing. What awaited us around the next bend was only the beginning of one of the most spectacular drive I ever took as we slowly made our way into the heart of the Ethiopian Highlands…

Our destination, which we would reach after a full day of driving, made stunning apparitions between hills and valleys. The jagged peaks of the Simien Mountains were finally coming into focus for a first and certainly not last panoramic photo stop. This was the very moment that we all acknowledged the world had been missing out on one of the most beautiful mountain scenery there was – and so few knew about it!

Jiggling with excitement, we kept going. The landscape leveled up for a while as we passed by large refugee camps – semi-permanent settlements for nearby Eritreans who fled to escape the compulsory military service in their home country.

A quick stop for lunch in a sunny village gave us an occasion to stretch our legs and catch a few more glimpses of the mountains…

… as well as the local life.

The afternoon saw the road turn to dirt and us climbing steeply through the clouds. A fine drizzle only accentuated the dramatic landscape and our arrival on “the Roof of Africa”.

After what seemed like an eternity, we finally reached the small village of Debark, the official gateway to the Simien Mountains National Park. Everyone must stop by the park’s headquarters here to pay a fee and hire local guides who will take you into the park and lead your hikes and treks.

Then it was a further 45 min drive up to reach our destination, passing tiny villages and this bucolic setting with a lovely Orthodox church surrounded by farm animals.

We finally arrived just before sundown at Simien Lodge, our home for the night which also happens to be the highest hotel in all of Africa at 3,260 m!!

Twenty traditional Tukul (the typical round houses seen in parts of eastern Africa) hug the side of a cliff during the gorgeous golden hour. We’re told to walk up slowly as the altitude is already being felt on our tired bodies.

Our cozy quarters include a decent hot shower and piles of blankets for those crisp mountain nights.

We hurried outside to catch the last few rays and contemplate the surreal pastoral scene right outside our doors. Have we been transported to Tuscany? Rolling hills with farmsteads, grazing cattle and lush pasture as far as the eyes can see…not the Ethiopia we’ve been told about for sure!

Watching the sun sets while standing tall on the Roof of Africa is a treat as much as was the journey to get here.

How cozy the night will be…

Evenings are spent inside the round bar which always has a roaring fire going on (I forgot to take a pic at night) and an impressive menu of wine and cocktails while hearty food is served in the dining room next door. A much better option than camping!

Mornings here are glorious, and hopefully you’ve gotten a good night of sleep as the altitude can make some sleepers pretty restless… Nevertheless, the views greeting us from the highest hotel in Africa were worth getting out of bed for.

After a solid breakfast, we set off on foot from the lodge to go explore Ethiopia’s highest mountain range with the hopes of stumbling upon some of its incredible flora and fauna.

A few minutes later, we were facing the first of many stunning views from right behind the lodge. It’s like nowhere else on earth. I wasn’t surprised to later find out that the Simien Mountains were one of the first sites to be made a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1978. Millions of years of erosion of the Ethiopian plateau have created stunning serrated mountain peaks, deep valleys and sheer cliffs which today are still home to unique flowers and rare creatures – the biggest draw for visitors coming all the way here.

As if by magic, it wasn’t long before we saw our first such creatures appearing at the top of the hill and coming towards us: Geladas!!

I had been dreaming of that day after seeing their striking features gracing the pages of National Geographic magazines and African tours brochures so imagine my excitement on this bright and cool morning…

Geladas are baboon-like monkeys that are only found in the Ethiopian Highlands. Also known as the “bleeding heart monkey” for the bright pink patch of skin on their chest, they can be seen in large groups fairly easily around here.

As the world’s only grass-eating monkeys, there are truly no other animals left like them as they are the last surviving species of ancient grazing primates that were once numerous. 

That lion-like mane is almost as characteristic as their colorful chest and shines brightly in the morning light. I stood there for a while observing them plucking and munching on grass and herbs, something they’ll be spending most of the day doing!

Mother and child are inseparable, at least until the baby has learned to feed himself.

Obviously curious by nature, they kept me at close watch with their heavily wrinkled face that seemed to belong to a 95 years old man. I just couldn’t help but make a Benjamin Button reference whenever I stared at one!

Can you think of a better morning hike than to hang out with these incredible creatures against such a beautiful backdrop?

Geladas are not known to be good tree climbers since they spend about 99% of their time on the ground, so at most you’ll see them sit comfortably on the lowest branch just a few feet up.

After a little while enjoying their company we continued on our way, tracing the contour of the cliff and taking in the sights and sounds of the Simiens.

Feather-like trees, lichen-covered trunks, endemic flowery bushes and bird songs accompany our gentle hike.

Some more jaw-dropping scenery of the park keeps appearing around every turn.

Soon, another form appears ahead – a single gelada grazing by himself, in the mist.

The morning mist sure hides some great views but it does add a mysterious and artistic quality to nature photography…

Eventually making our way back to the lodge, who do you think was there to welcome us?

Yes, a big old group of Geladas hanging right by our rooms. That is to say that if you stay at Simien Lodge, not only your chances of seeing these precious monkeys are pretty high, you might not even need to leave your bed to enjoy their company!

More time with them meant observing even more closely their behaviors to my greatest joy. From babies feeding…

… to a little one perhaps foraging for the first time…

…to family disputes? One thing’s for sure, these are not quiet animals. Geladas possess one of the most varied vocal repertoires of all primates and are known to be very noisy, fact we can confirm after being surrounded by 50 of them for a while.

Alas, it was time to depart and I sure was glad they were checking us out as we took our leave.

More breathtaking vistas awaited on the road and only gave me the craving to come back for multiple days of trekking. The forces of nature have created such a vast and stunning landscape here with cascading waterfalls and escarpments that give views for days.

A lot more to be discovered from the Roof of Africa, but for now we’ll be making our way down slightly to our next destination…