If you need a break from summer in NYC and the crowded Hamptons, a weekend getaway to the Finger Lakes is calling. Just a few hours drive will bring you to one of the best wine regions in the country with gorgeous scenery, a thriving food scene, and plenty of outdoor pursuits to get your mind off the city grind.

The Finger Lakes region is quite vast with 11 long and narrow lakes giving its name to this beautiful upstate destination. Attempting to cover it all over a weekend would be crazy so you’re better to concentrate on a single of the larger lakes – and I’d hastily recommend Seneca Lake. It’s the largest of the Finger Lakes but most importantly, it’s home to the biggest wine trail in New York State and three of the best parks in the region.

There are a lot of wonderful towns around the lake but you should base yourself either at the southern tip in Watkins Glen or the northern one in Geneva for the best access to all there is to do here.

The bigger of the two though still pretty quaint, Geneva has a beautiful lakefront state park and a growing culinary scene that make a good case for staying here. Even if you’re not spending the night, make sure you try one of the F.L.X. spots, whether it’s the intimate farm-to-table dinner of F.L.X. Table or the fried chicken and waffle creations from F.L.X. Fry Bird.

With just about 40 wineries surrounding Seneca Lake, the hardest part of planning your trip will be choosing which ones you wish to stop at (and who’s driving!). Going down the western side of the lake from Geneva, I made sure to stop at Shaw Vineyard near Himrod after reading much praise about the artisanal operations.

The sustainably minded winery hosts tastings in its small and rustic barn-like room and is notable for having a great selection of reds in a region known mostly for white wine. The small production and cellar-aging (often five years or more for reds) means the bottles here aren’t the cheapest but the complexity and character of each bottle makes this a great stop on any wine tasting route.

A very different experience awaits at Lakewood Vineyards, a family-owned winery producing wine and mead.

The outdoor patio with scenic views of the vineyard and the lake is a big draw, and so is the wide variety of wine on offer. It’s the kind of winery that has something for everyone and many different tasting flights from dry to sweet and everything in between.

Sample a bunch, buy a bottle and some snacks and settle at a picnic table to enjoy the magnificent views. I fell in love with their dry Riesling, their sparkling and their Cabernet Franc and left with quite a few bottles to fill the trunk of my car!

I honestly never thought I would sample such fine wines up here, and apparently the answer lies in the topography… It has been observed that the large size of Seneca Lake moderates the temperature which creates ideal conditions for growing grapes on the surrounding land. That’s the reason Seneca Lake has more wineries in the region than any other lakes and is now widely considered by winemakers to have the region’s best terroir.

When you need a break from all that drinking, just past the southern tip of the lake you’ll find the small, charming village of Montour Falls. Its main attraction is a big waterfall called Shequaga that suddenly appears in between houses in a spectacular and surprising effect.

A small park with benches allows you to linger for a while and admire that frothy cascade pouring down the cliff. The resemblance to a lacy wedding veil won’t be caused by the amount of wine you’ve ingested I can assure you…it’s nature’s own striking show once again.

A few minutes drive back up north and you’ll find yourself in the town of Watkins Glen, a very fine lakeside home base from where to hit all the wonders around Seneca Lake.

Most people who have heard of Watkins Glen are more familiar with its racing history of which you’ll find numerous reminders around town. Nicknamed ‘The Glen‘, its automobile race track was once known around the world as the home of the Formula One Grand Prix as well as a number of other famous racing events.

The new face of Watkins Glen though is very much centered around the burgeoning wine industry and fantastic outdoor adventures available nearby. For a local taste, I stopped by the highly praised Graft Wine + Cider Bar on the main street (*it has unfortunately recently closed its doors after four years in service – its owners wanting to do something different). The casual eatery offered wine and drinks all made in New York State with a daily changing menu of locally sourced sharing plates.

The next day, wake up as early as you can for what I consider the highlight of the region – a hike through Watkins Glen State Park. I confess that this park only is what brought me here, over 4 hours drive from my home, and it was more than worth it.

The most famous park in the Finger Lakes has its entrance right in the middle of the village and will undoubtedly blow your mind. You’ll want to devote at least 1.5 hours to exploring the world-class Gorge Trail and my early start recommendation will be the best gift you can give yourself around these parts.

The Gorge Trail starts climbing up right after the entrance of the park and will show you some of Nature’s most spellbinding work along the way.

7am – pretty much the only time in high season you’ll have the trail to yourself and it’ll mean the world to not only your photographs but to be able to enjoy this grand spectacle in peace and quiet… The trail follows the glen’s stream which descends 400 feet past 200-foot cliffs, creating 19 waterfalls along its course.

For 1.3 miles, you’ll wind your way over and under all of these waterfalls in a light, color and sound show that can’t truly be captured by mere photos.

While the hundreds of stone steps you’ll be climbing are man-made, the erosion of the cliffs surely isn’t and it’s incredible to see the sheer size of the chasm created over thousands of years.

With the early morning sun bouncing off every which way and water splashing against the cliff sides, rainbows are a regular occurrence and only adds to the magic of the place.

Approaching the thundering Cavern Cascade…

…if you’ve never stood behind a waterfall you’ll get your chance here.

The wide setting of ‘The Cathedral’ is an imposing sight after the closed-in and narrow start of the trail, and things are just beginning to get grander.

It’s hard to explain the palpitations felt of being a tiny individual in this stunning setting, approaching what she knows is the exact shot that draws everyone for hundreds of miles to this little state park. I can still feel the excitement as I slowly made my way up these narrow steps in the cool morning air…

…to witness the Rainbow Falls in all their glory. No. Word. I’m not exactly sure how long I stood there – it never felt like enough time to capture it all.

With a few photo and contemplative stops, you can hike the trail up in about an hour and then you’ll have the choice to catch a shuttle at the top end of it to bring you back to the entrance, or walk the Gorge Trail back in reverse. I obviously advise you to do the latter. You’ll find many angles you’ve missed on the way up, the light will have changed dramatically, and you’ll be able to wave to the hordes of tourists who didn’t wake up early enough to have this natural wonder all to themselves for a spell…

So few people I know have been to Buffalo. The second-most populous city in New York State is more often the butt of a joke then a destination on your wishlist. Bitter cold winters? Industrial decline? Just a pit stop on your way to Niagara Falls? Wrong! The Buffalo I just visited was a delight deserving way more than a weekend to do it justice. There’s an identity affirming renaissance happening here and you should plan your visit now.

If you’re a fan of architecture, you’ll no doubt have heard that Buffalo is home to some of Frank Lloyd Wright’s best works. How many cities can boast seven of its splendid creations? Taking in Buffalo’s magnificent architecture is the easiest way to fall in love with it and see it as it was in its industrial heydays. If you have only a short time, make a visit to the Martin House a priority, and take the two hour tour.

No photos are allowed inside so you’ll have to see it for yourself, but I can assure you that stepping inside this temple of design is absolutely incredible. Especially when learning about the house’s history of opulence, abandonment and meticulous $50 million restoration that took 21 years.

The house was the most extravagant private residence Frank Lloyd Wright ever designed, and it was also his favorite. He described it as “a domestic symphony” and that it was “the most perfect thing of its kind in the world.” He affectionately called it his “opus” which should give you an idea of its splendor.

The 15,000-square-foot complex takes up nearly half a city block and every inch of it was refurbished in meticulous details, from the refabricated glass windows to the Wright-designed furniture. Standing in the middle of it, noticing his signature glass work, his clever use of natural light, and his talent for bringing the outside in has imprinted a vision in me I shall keep forever – and lofty goals for one day finding a similarly inspiring place to live in!

A dramatic 175-foot pergola links the house to the rest of the complex and pulls you towards the seductive view of a towering Winged Victory sculpture in the conservatory.

The visit ends with the gardener’s cottage, a decidedly more modest example of Frank’s style but no less interesting to explore. You’ll leave with a newfound passion for the architect if you hadn’t been hooked before, and a newly created list of homes to visit across the US!

The neighborhood around the house makes for a lovely walk and you can also see a few blocks away another one of Frank’s designs. The Walter Davidson House is privately owned (lucky them!) but you can have a good look at it from the street.

Time to check out the food scene and it is fabulous here and totally unpretentious which is so refreshing to see. Of course you can have your fill of delicious chicken wings at many of the local taverns (ask for suggestions – everyone has a strong opinion!) but for a modern mix of small, creative plates, look no further than The Dapper Goose.

It has the feel of a very hip and welcoming neighborhood restaurant, comfy seating, and plenty of light – love.

Avocado and crab toast was in order to counteract other Buffalo specialties that were to follow…none too healthy. 😉

Walk it off in beautiful Forest Lawn Cemetery.

There’s another Frank Lloyd Wright’s jewel in here in the shape of the Blue Sky Mausoleum.

Although this unique crypt was commissioned by Darwin Martin (owner of the Martin House you’ve just seen), it was never completed during their lifetime. Martin lost everything in the crash of 1929 and had to put the mausoleum on hold.

The plan was to have a resting place for his entire family with 24 crypts laid out like steps descending to the water’s edge.

The trademark organic architecture is at its place in these lovely grounds and is what I would call a superb last residence…

From there it’s a short walk to another of Buffalo’s shining stars: the Albright-Knox Art Gallery.

It’s one of the oldest museums in the nation and has a high concentration of arresting artworks. I absolutely adore it mainly because of its immaculate curation but also mostly because of its size… So many museums and art galleries are just too big to capture your full attention from beginning to end, and this medium-sized gallery was just perfect to fill in a 2-hour cultural slot with as much beauty as I could take.

Oriol Vilanova’s “Anything, Everything” was a stunner – 4,500 second-hand museum postcards organized by colored background. A mosaic I would blanket a room in my house with…

Modern sculptures on one side, famous paintings on the other – there is literally something for everyone.

Venture outside and you’ll also find a number of amazing sculptures and art installations scattered around the complex.

One more visual gem of Buffalo is the Kleinhans Music Hall, home to the Buffalo Philharmonic Orchestra.

Built in the late 1930s, it is renowned for its acoustical excellence and graceful architecture. Alas, there were no concerts the weekend I was there hence I wasn’t able sadly to experience it for myself…

When dinnertime comes, if you feel like having a well-crafted cocktail (or a few!) with a couple of plates of comfort food, head to Buffalo Proper downtown. The dimly-lit, brick-walled room with a touch of taxidermy and mustachioed bartenders does have that ‘Brooklyn’ feel people seem to want to attribute to everything these days…but it works, tastes amazing, and you’ll have a wonderful, boozy evening.

Near the restaurant, you’ll find the famous Shea’s Performing Arts Center if you want to end the night with a Broadway show or a play. The interior is gorgeous, modeled after the opera houses and palaces of Europe of the 17th and 18th centuries, so full of baroque and rococo.

Another day starts with a filling breakfast at BreadHive Bakery & Cafe.

They make their own bread, bagels and pretzel and their breakfast sandwiches are to die for.

Time to head outside of Buffalo and continue to follow the trace of Frank Lloyd Wright by driving 20 minutes south to reach Graycliff on the shore of Lake Erie.

The beautiful summer estate was designed for Darwin Martin (the same as the Martin House we just visited in Buffalo) and was built between 1926 and 1931.

Graycliff is one of the most ambitious and extensive summer estates Wright ever designed, and although it doesn’t have all the luxurious details of the Martin House, the organic feel and natural location of the house are well worth the detour.

The light pouring in from everywhere is the focal point of the house. The owner’s wife had poor eyesight and the brilliant Frank worked his magic to almost invisibly merge the outside and the inside.

The expansive view over the lake which you can see from everywhere in the house must never have gotten old. Hopefully they will restore the bridge that used to connect with the stairs going down to the beach too!

Enjoy your midday break in the nearby town of Hamburg and its delightful restaurant – The Grange Community Kitchen. The space is gorgeous and the food is all locally sourced and thoughtful. You’ll get a casual cafe vibe during the day and a warm, candle-lit ambiance in the evenings.

End your day by driving the 30 minutes to Niagara Falls for an afternoon of very fine water views shared with a few thousands of tourists. Definitely cross the border into Canada as this is where you’ll have the best panorama.

The famous Horseshoe Falls (straddling the border but mainly visible from the Canadian side) is the clear showstopper and the most powerful waterfall in North America.

It’s powerful, and beautiful, and you’ll get a bit wet while trying to get close to the mouth of the beast. I must admit though, they are no match to Iguazu Falls in South America or Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe… Glad I got to close the loop by finally checking out the North American competition!