For anyone looking for an underdeveloped slice of paradise, the tiny town of Todos Santos in Baja California Sur is just the ticket. The area is so delightful that it was designated a Pueblo Mágico by the Mexican government, one of just 100 or so small towns honored for its natural beauty, cultural richness, traditions, arts & crafts, etc.

The quiet surfing town lies an hour north of Cabo and got a healthy amount of buzz when the Hotel San Cristobál opened in 2017. Down a dirt road connecting the highway to the Pacific Ocean, you’ll find the stylish beachfront abode favored by Instagram influencers and the chic nomadic types.

Sipping mezcal cocktails by the turquoise pool overlooking the ocean is a fine way to spend your time here, but there are also miles of great hiking and biking trails all around in the foothills of the Sierra de la Laguna mountain range. And of course surfing with some of the country’s best surf breaks located nearby.

The wide Punta Lobos beach is secluded and peaceful, with locals coming to fish as they’ve done for a long time.

This is THE stylish spot for those who want a little bit of scene and eye-catching design while still feeling pretty remote and yet undiscovered – it’s ‘Baja cool’. Nooks with fireplaces all around the pool add to the charm and the onsite restaurant serves fresh, healthy and wholesome meals to regenerate you after too many margaritas. You’ll want to linger here for a few days, at least, feeling rejuvenated and totally inspired.

When you’re ready to get out and explore, Todos Santos is just a 5 minutes drive away.

The incredibly chilled and sleepy town is a walker’s dream with quiet cobblestone streets lined with pastel-colored colonial buildings.

Popping into artisan shops and galleries is a joy as you get to interact with locals and expats who’ve settled here to live their hippie dreams. From colorful crafts to bohemian clothing and intricate handwoven textiles, the shopping experience here feels a lot more relaxed and rewarding than in Cabo.

Old haciendas have been turned into boutique hotels and restaurants. I love the rather unique architecture of brick buildings, somewhat blending the desert and mountains style synonymous with the region.

Side streets filled with charming cafes are begging for quiet contemplation and cultural immersion, with artists workshops opened onto the sidewalks.

Even private residences have a pedigree all their own and a personal nod to their beautiful surroundings, wildlife being especially prolific both underwater and in the sky.

For such a small town, there is an impressive amount of good eateries with a perfect blend of local and expat cuisine. Some are more hidden than others and you’ll find a delightful surprise in the backyard of Ezra Katz’ gallery.

A lush and beautiful garden is also a Mediterranean restaurant called ‘Bleu’ where you can savor drinks and light meals in a tropical haven.

Everything here is a reminder to take it slow…and it’s a big reason why Todos Santos has won so many hearts. Taking in its myriad of little details from photogenic doorways to stunning mosaics on a wall is the art cure we all need. Reality is it probably won’t stay this quiet for long (people are already referring to it as the ‘next Tulum’) but I’m pretty sure the hippie vibes will stay on.

Mountains, beach, outdoor activities, delicious food, local arts, friendly locals, uber chilled town with everything you need… this is the alternative Mexican beach vacation that will leave you totally refreshed and feeling like a lucky insider.

Until we can travel again, I’m glad I hadn’t had the time yet to post about my early 2020 trips which now serve as a reminder of how lucky I was to visit these beautiful places before the world shut down. To hit the reset button in Baja California Sur was a treat I look forward to repeating, and I hope my past and upcoming posts will keep your travel itch alive and well for when we can all start exploring again.

Set at the tip of Mexico’s Baja Peninsula, Cabo San Lucas spreads its resorts-laden beaches to meet those of nearby San José del Cabo, creating the party central of A-listers known as Los Cabos (“The Capes”). Both towns offer something different, and if you want to be in the thick of the action you’ll usually end up in ‘Cabo’, short for Cabo San Lucas.

Miles of golden sand beaches are lined with restaurants and bars, and the stretch of El Medano Beach has calm waters you can swim in which makes it particularly popular.

This is where the crowd flocks to enjoy the sun and sand while listening to DJs spinning, drinking copious amount of cocktails, and admiring the gorgeous scenery.

When hunger strikes, you simply have to walk a few feet on the beach to find delicious food and festive ambiance, such as at The Office on the Beach, a famous and busy hangout.

Whether you opt to lunch with your feet in the sand or up in the bar area, the offerings are all scrumptious and beautifully presented with top-notch service. Definitely a cut above what you’d normally expect in such a setting.

When you’ve had enough of the beach (and the crowds!), there are a few small neighborhoods worth exploring on foot to admire glamorous villas. The ones up on a hill, such as Pedregal, have plenty of them, all vying for the best views.

Eating well is easy, you’re in Mexico after all, and Cabo has something for everyone. Do make sure to try some of the local places besides the fancy hotel restaurants, they offer incredible value. Tacos Gardenias for example will feed you delicious seafood tacos for less than $5 and is a 5 minutes walk from the beach.

One of the greatest things about Cabo is the amount of activities you can partake in, as I’m not one to sit on the beach indefinitely or spend sunny days shopping at malls and dancing in raucous nightclubs. You’ll want to head to the bustling marina for every kind of excursions from sport fishing to snorkeling to whale watching – which was the main reason I was here.

Time your trip between December and April for an experience you likely won’t forget, as Cabo is a worldwide hot spot for seeing whales in the Pacific Ocean. The waters around the peninsula are breeding areas and migratory stops for whales during this period and your chances of an encounter are almost guaranteed (most tour companies will take you on a second tour for free if you don’t see any).

The boat ride will take you close to the stunning rock structures you’ve been eyeing from the beach, hosts to pelicans and other aquatic birds.

You’ll pass by Lover’s Beach, a beautiful and calm beach on the Sea of Cortés.

Soon you’ll arrive at Cabo’s landmark of El Arco. The famous rock arch is seen on every pictures and publicity for Los Cabos and you’ll want to capture a few photos, especially with the morning light shining through.

The Arch also marks the point where the Sea of Cortés and the Pacific Ocean meet.

Sea lions are often seen the arch, sunning on rocks or frolicking in the water.

Leaving the calm sea behind, the boats make their way towards the deep blue of the Pacific Ocean. Looking back, you can see Divorce Beach (not kidding), the other side of Lover’s Beach connected by a small gap in the rocks. It apparently takes its name from the fact that the waters on this side are turbulent and make swimming forbidden…

More upscale resorts line this quieter side of Cabo, including the Waldorf Astoria, with prime ocean views.

Only a few hundred feet from the shore, you should start to see them…the whales! At first it’s a tail or the outline of a large body slowly rolling close to the surface.

Our inflatable speedboat got into high gear to close the distance between us and the latest splash we’d seen in the distance. It’s a thrilling ride and you’ll want front row seats.

These are humpbacks, usually 40 to 50 feet long, and if you’re lucky they’ll put on quite the show… It’s called ‘breaching’ – a form of surface behaviour where most of the whale’s body leave the water to crash back down in an enormous splash. It is meant to be a way of communicating with the others below the surface.

Our guide heard over the radio about a particularly active one further out so we rushed to witness this absolutely breathtaking performance, over and over again. She must have done it 4-5 times while we sat and watched, speechless, as her ginormous body jumped out and fell back in a loud splash.

A 70,000 pounds ballerina’s final bow.

Besides the spectacular displays, you’ll learn a lot about these magnificent creatures, such as how their tail is their unique identification and no two are alike. Alas, the ocean got quiet again and we returned to land.

The streets around the marina are rather pleasant during the day before the night crowds come out and worth an afternoon stroll. Mind you, downtown Cabo will never be considered ‘quaint’ with its shopping malls and oversized pubs, but if you look closely you’ll find a number of smaller spots and restaurants to enjoy some quiet Mexican time.

Outpost restaurant is a welcome oasis on the main drag with boho vibes and organic food and cocktails.

For no fuss, delicious tacos, you have to try Tacos Guss. Well known in the touristic circuits, it’s still a very solid stop for an affordable lunch of meat tacos with all the fixings.

For souvenirs, I’d recommend avoiding the usual tourist traps all around downtown and instead walking 10 min north to get to La Coyota.

The huge craft store is set in an old colonial hacienda with every room devoted to a different theme. You can find everything from embroidered textiles to kitchen utensils and outdoor planters and the experience is incredibly peaceful since most visitors don’t come that way.

Back on the beach for late afternoon, the options for a drink are plentiful but pretty similar after being here for a few days.

Break the ‘monotony’ with one of my best discoveries – Baja Brewery. The local brewery is almost hidden in plain sight, perched on the rooftop terrace of Cabo Villas Beach Resort & Spa.

You’ll be stunned by the views and the airiness of the bar. Grab one of their craft beers on tap and you can also have a full meal here with the usual comfort food offerings. Live music, matches broadcasted on the tvs, and let’s not forget the panorama… and you have one of the best places to chill out in Cabo for a few hours.

For an even more elevated experience, it’s totally worth splurging on a meal (or a night) at one of the many luxury hotels and resorts that are dotted along the coast between Cabo San Lucas and San Jose Del Cabo (the ‘Golden Corridor’ as it is known). They have unbelievable vistas and all the chic magazine cover looks the jet-setters have been flocking to for years. You’ll have many to choose from depending on your tastes. As for me, it was obvious I had to pay a visit to The Cape, a Thompson Hotel familiar to my former NYC life.

The sleek, mid-century modern surfer vibes are spread throughout the luxury hotel which is partially outdoors.

The open-air lobby and sunken bar feels cozy enough for a reading session and dramatic enough for hours of contemplation.

Sunsets at the rooftop bar are the perfect prelude to enchanting evenings with uninterrupted skies, live music, and carefully crafted cocktails.

You can gaze all the way out at the famous El Arco straight in front of you…

…and look down at the Monuments Beach point break for a beautiful slice of nature without the usual beachfront hotels lineup.

The true highlight of the evening though comes with the food. The on-site restaurant, Manta, is a creation of the biggest name in Mexican cuisine: Enrique Olvera. The man behind such treasures as Cosme in New York and world-famous Pujol in Mexico City has done it again here in Cabo with a stunning space and equally memorable dining experience.

Similar to his other restaurants, the space is hugely atmospheric and incredibly cozy at the same time. The huge floor-to-ceiling windows look out over the bay and the sound of crashing waves is a lovely accompaniment to the coastal cuisine.

Whether going for the tasting menu, which I highly recommend, or choosing from à  la carte, a meal here is a gustatory adventure fans of Enrique will no doubt recognize and adore. The theme here is a comforting blend of Mexican cuisine using Japanese and Peruvian influences, and of course local ingredients with a lot of seafood in the mix. It’s fabulous, unparalleled, and the kind of meal you’ll linger over for hours.