Americas Colombia Travels

Eating Your Way Through Bogota, Colombia

October 18, 2020

I didn’t go to Bogotá with food on my mind. Culinary pursuits way south would hail Mexico and Peru first as the real food destinations. And yet, besides absorbing the vibrant art scene and intoxicating energy pulsing through the streets, it seems all I did was eat! From the comforting classics to the exciting cuisine the new generation of young chefs is creating, to really get to know Bogotá is to eat your heart out… and I hope you’re very hungry. You’re in for a real treat.

At an elevation of nearly 9,000 feet, Bogotá is one of the highest capitals in the world. The altitude and cool climate mean the local staples tend to be on the heavier side – so pace yourself. The city is vast with roughly 8 million inhabitants spread throughout 20 little towns that were joined together decades ago. It would take months to truly get to know the innards of the city and its full culinary offerings hence I can only offer a delicious glimpse today. You’ll need to taxi your way to the various restaurants and neighborhoods so make sure you walk around the ‘localidades‘ enough to justify the next meal!

Starting at the heart of it all, the main square of Plaza de Bolívar puts you in the center of the action. It houses City Hall, Colombia’s high courts, the Congress building, and the Primatial Cathedral, as well as hundreds of pigeons. Locals meet here for a snack and a stroll around the old cobblestone streets branching out of the square.

Bolivar Square in Bogota, Colombia

The first food stop is right next door at the legendary La Puerta Falsa, Bogotá’s oldest restaurant, open since 1816. There will be a line and it’ll be crammed inside but it’s one of those can’t miss experiences. It’s also the perfect introduction to the local food customs: 1) no Colombian meals is complete without carbs and 2) cheese has a place absolutely everywhere.

La Puerta Falsa - Bogota

People mostly come here for ‘onces‘, a mid-morning or afternoon snack which usually consists of some cheesy bread and a hot beverage. The restaurant is also famous for Colombian classics such as tamales and hearty soups.

La Puerta Falsa - Bogota

For a true Bogotano experience, order the hot chocolate which comes with bread and cheese (chocolate completo). Yes, cheese. Cheese gets melted on, baked in, stuffed into, and served with just about everything in Bogotá, including hot chocolate and coffee.

La Puerta Falsa - Bogota

Mixing cheese with sweets is perfectly normal here and I must admit a delightful surprise. Do as the locals do and dip it in until it melts, and then drink the whole thing. Yum. My kind of tea time. And it seemed to cure my horrible altitude-induced headache and brain fog hence why I suggest this as your first snack of your trip. 🙂

Hot Chocolate and Cheese at La Puerta Falsa - Bogota

If you’re here on a weekend, don’t miss the weekend flea market in Usaquén, a neighborhood to the north of the city.

Usaquen Market in Bogota

Every Sundays, outdoor vendors set out along the cobblestone streets, selling everything from quality handicrafts and paintings to food and cheap trinkets. It’s a great place to buy souvenirs that are not the touristy kinds sold in downtown shops.

Usaquen Market in Bogota
Usaquen Market in Bogota
Usaquen Market in Bogota

There’s a wide variety of restaurants and bars throughout the neighborhood, but it’s worth seeking out Abasto for one of the best breakfasts in town.

Abasto restaurant in Usaquen

The restaurant/bodega has an organic look and philosophy and works with nearby farms for its fresh take on local cuisine. The arepas (corn cakes), a diet staple, are famous and come with a wide variety of toppings…including cheese of course.

Arepa at Abasto restaurant in Usaquen

It’s also an ideal place to eat some greens and vegetables which you won’t get a huge dose of if you didn’t pick up yet on the heavy theme. Try their fresh hearts of palm salad – first time I was tasting it not from a can, a revelation!

Hearts of Palm Salad at Abasto restaurant in Usaquen

And then jump straight back in with an heirloom potato gratin made with a local spicy ripe cheese.

Abasto restaurant in Usaquen

In the Chico Norte neighborhood, a lunch at La Mulera Restaurante will introduce you to a host of other local rib-sticking specialties that feed workers on their midday break.

Arepas with cheese
Fried chunchullo (intestines)
Patacon – fried and flattened green plantain, topped with melted cheese

I chose as my main meal a bowl of ajiaco, a hearty chicken soup made with three different kinds of potatoes, corn and a distinctive aromatic herb. Bogotanos are proud of their soups for good reason – they’re deeply flavored and honestly perfect for warming your bones in the cool altitude climate. The ajiaco came with sides of rice, avocado, pickled capers and heavy cream to garnish – no wonder I could only stomach half of it after snacking on all these fried cheesy bites before!

The men in my group though all went with the ‘Bandeja Paisa‘ which loosely translates to ‘farmer’s tray’ due to the sheer size. This giant meal usually consists of rice, red beans stew, chicharrón (pork cracklings), avocado, minced meat, a fried egg, chorizo sausage, a platano, salad and tomato, blood sausage (morcilla), arepa and hogago (a hot salsa made from tomato and onions). You can find it on every Colombian restaurants’ menu with slight variations.

Head to El Nogal for a dose of greenery, plush residences and design boutiques – it’s like a little village within the bustling city centre.

It’s also where you’ll find, tucked away at the end of the street, El Bandido Bistro.

El Bandido Bistro in Bogota

The very cool French Brasserie is there for when you want a break from the local fare and are looking for a scene with the in-crowd. You might catch a live jazz set or other retro act to accompany the excellent brasserie menu.

El Bandido Bistro in Bogota
Octopus Ceviche at El Bandido Bistro in Bogota
Octopus Carpaccio
El Bandido Bistro in Bogota
Portobellos Bordelaise

No visit to Bogotá would be complete without wandering the streets of La Candeleria, the historic central neighborhood flanked by colorful hillsides and intersected by winding streets covered in beautiful murals. And thankfully you can fuel your exploration with one of the most celebrated lunches in the city at the acclaimed Prudencia.

Prudencia Restaurant in Bogota

Stepping into the renovated colonial home, one immediately feels serene. The abundance of light and the natural elements applied throughout this most homey of greenhouse call for a slow, celebratory meal which is exactly what Prudencia has been setting out to do since it opened in 2016.

Prudencia Restaurant in Bogota
Prudencia Restaurant in Bogota

The striking setting is ideally matched to the incredibly flavorful food that comes out of the open kitchen. In the words of the American-Colombian owners: “food from all over the world, using local ingredients, minimal waste, a connection with the natural environment, and preservation techniques that take time, such as smoking and fermentation.”

Prudencia Restaurant in Bogota

Reservations are recommended, but even without one there’s a charming garden at the back where you can wait for a table while sipping a refreshing house made cocktail, such as this tarragon-infused cider with fennel and grapes.

The four-course set price lunch changes weekly, always includes a vegetarian option, and showcases the best of local ingredients in this showstopper of a meal where absolutely everything is made from scratch.

Wood-fired bread with house-cultured butter
Fresh organic watermelon, its own broth and pickled rind
Beef tenderloin with coffee from Pasto, Sichuan and pink peppers
House-cultivated crème fraîche and ricotta, strawberry curd, fennel yogurt and white chocolate crumble

When the sun starts going down, head to El Chicó, an affluent neighborhood known for the Parque de la 93 garden plaza, surrounded by international restaurants and trendy bars.  On the rooftop of The Click Clack Hotel where I was staying, the Apache burger bar has 50’s Americana vibes and panoramic views over the city.

Sample some cocktails and inspired snacks (I had a memorable octopus hot dog) before hitting the town for dinner.

Cocktails in Bogota

A few short blocks away, get comfortable in the lounge or dining room of Local By Rausch.

Local by Rausch - Bogota

The Colombian-born Rausch brothers are gourmet celebrities famous for experimenting with Colombian cuisine. Their eclectic restaurant is the place to sit back and relax with a creative cocktail and a modern take on local classic dishes, all buzzing with flavors and expertly executed.

Local by Rausch - Bogota
Lamb at Local by Rausch - Bogota
Lamb shank with peanut puree

Hidden on a curvy street in the Chapinero neighborhood, Mini-Mal feels like a hip and quirky apartment you’ve been exclusively invited to.

Mini-Mal Restaurant in Bogota

The interior is a lot more casual than the façade may make it appear, and eating in one of the house’s intimate rooms is incredibly cozy. People come here for the food as well as for the ethos of this Colombian fusion restaurant. The cuisine highlights artisanal products from the country’s often overlooked regions such as the Pacific coast and the Amazon, helping to spread awareness about Colombian biodiversity while supporting the regions’ farmers and fishermen.

Mini-Mal Restaurant in Bogota

It’s one of Bogotá’s most interesting restaurants and the creative plates, all beautifully presented, will give you a taste of the whole country without leaving your seat.

Fried Costeño cheese skewers
Meat-filled arracacha and yuca cakes with passion fruit sauce
Pollo Enchichado – Chicken thighs stewed in chicha and cane sugar, served on top of a puree of native potatoes, dressed with cilantro and Paipa DO cheese pesto
Selva Adentro – Braised beef neck with yuca fries, bread, and ants

So many more Colombian dishes to try, but this is a good start to get a glimpse at this exciting cuisine’s incredible diversity and hearty nature. Just don’t forget to pack your stretchy pants…

Breakfast / Brunch Recipes Vegetarian

French Toast with Strawberry Salad

September 28, 2020

Six months into the pandemic… With all our routines and habits upturned, it’s now more important than ever to find ways to treat ourselves on a daily basis and find the positive in as many places as we can. One suggestion? Start your day with a special breakfast – it’ll set you up on the right track. Why wait for the weekend now that you don’t have to commute or rush out the door? This French Toast with Strawberry Salad recipe (adapted and translated from Cuisine Revisitée) is ready in less than 20 minutes and frankly tastes even better on a Tuesday morning when you’re struck by that familiar Groundhog Day feeling.

Slice a crusty seeded bread (sunflower is awesome here, but feel free to use whatever you have on hand) really thick, like at least 1 inch thick or more, and dip in a batter of egg, cream, milk, sugar and vanilla bean. Sear in hot butter until caramelized and you get these delicious browned crusts on the exterior.

French Toast

Top with a quick strawberry salad which is simply a mix of fresh strawberries sliced in half (frozen would work in a pinch), a handful of dried currants, crushed peppercorns, thyme, lemon juice and powdered sugar.

French Toast with Strawberry Salad

The mix of fresh, crunchy fruits with a savory bite (thanks to the thyme and peppercorns) and the sweet, chewy bread is surprising in all the good ways. Such a winning breakfast and perfect for breaking up that boring morning routine. And the batter can be kept in the fridge for an even quicker set up the next day.

Don’t leave these indulgences just for the weekends….you deserve them every.single.day.

An easy way to up your weekday breakfast game, this sweet French toast topped with a fresh and crunchy strawberry salad is a crowd pleaser.

Cook Time:15 min
Prep Time:10 min
Yield:6
Preparation
1. In a medium bowl, combine the sugar, vanilla bean seeds and eggs and whisk well until the sugar is completely dissolved. While whisking, add the cream and the milk. Set aside.

2. In another medium bowl, gently combine all the ingredients for the salad (except the butter) with a wooden spoon until the powdered sugared has melted. Set aside.

3. Melt the butter in a nonstick pan over medium heat until it foams a little. Dip a slice of bread into the cream mixture, drain, and put in the hot pan over the butter. Let it caramelize on both sides and serve with 1/6 of the strawberry salad on top.

4. If you have a sweet tooth, you can add a little bit of maple syrup on top of it all!
Ingredients
6 thick slices of seeded, crusty bread (sunflower bread is great here)
2 eggs
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup whole milk
75g sugar
1/2 vanilla bean
Strawberry Salad:
500g strawberries, sliced in half
10 black peppercorns, crushed
100g dried currants
2 tablespoons powdered sugar
Juice of one lemon
1/4 bunch of thyme, chopped
100g unsalted butter
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Americas Travels US

Weekend Getaway in Cooperstown, NY

September 20, 2020

Few villages embody the ideal of ‘small-town America’ as well as Cooperstown in central New York. Founded in 1786 by William Cooper, father of novelist James Fenimore Cooper, who wrote “The Last of the Mohicans” and other tales set in this region, the vintage postcard setting of the town has made it one of the most visited in the country.

Cooperstown NY

It’s an ideal long weekend getaway from NYC – a 3.5hrs drive from the city or only an hour from the Albany airport. As soon as you enter the town you’re transported back to another time. Simply walking the three blocks long Main street conjures up scenes straight from a Rockwell painting with families eating ice cream next to retro storefronts.

Cooperstown Main Street
Cooperstown Old Tavern

If you didn’t know it already, Cooperstown is famous for something other than its vintage charms. It is home to the National Baseball Hall of Fame and Museum – a real shrine for thousands and thousands of game enthusiasts who come here to pay homage to the heroes and admire such beloved memorabilia as the ball that Babe Ruth hit for his 500th home run.

Cooperstown Baseball Hall of Fame

Almost every other shop in town is dedicated to America’s favorite pastime and you’ll be able to get your hands on anything from uniforms for kids and adults to vintage cards and bats. If you’re not into baseball fear not – there’s still plenty to enjoy for the non-devotees.

Cooperstown Main Street

Word of the beautiful village started spreading in the late 19th century and wealthy New Yorkers began building vacation homes up here, creating stately civic structures that bookend Main street.

Cooperstown Buildings
Cooperstown Village Hall

Side streets brimmed with historic mansions, many turned into exquisite inns that are a big draw for visitors.

Cooperstown Stone House

And two blocks from the Main street you’ll find Cooperstown’s true jewel – Otsego Lake.

Cooperstown and Otsego Lake

Also known as Lake Glimmerglass (the name James Fenimore Cooper gave Otsego Lake in his most famous book, “The Last of the Mohicans), the lustrous nine-mile-long lake is a hub of activities. Whether you wish to take a canoe across, stand up paddleboard, try your hand at fishing or simply contemplate its sparkling beauty, you’ll keep on finding yourself drawn to its shores which only add to Cooperstown’s romantic appeal.

Otsego Lake

A number of grand residences are to be found all around it such as the Fenimore Art Museum set in a beautiful 1930’s brick mansion.

Cooperstown - Fenimore Art Museum

It houses one of the largest collections of American Indian art and artifacts as well as American folk and decorative art. Some of the furniture and portraits shed some light on the life of the town’s famous author and his family.

Cooperstown - Fenimore Art Museum
Cooperstown - Fenimore Art Museum
Cooperstown - Fenimore Art Museum

The grounds at the back offer expansive views of the lake and there’s a short walking trail to see other outlying buildings.

Cooperstown - Fenimore Art Museum Terrace
Cooperstown - Fenimore Art Museum
Cooperstown - Fenimore Art Museum Lake Views

Near the northern part of the lake, you’ll find the most spectacular of all the mansions around in the legendary Hyde Hall. The national historic landmark is considered the finest example of neoclassic country mansions anywhere in the United States and doing a guided tour of its interior is definitely a must when visiting Cooperstown.

Cooperstown - Hyde Hall

The British-American country house was the home of George Clark, a wealthy English landowner, who married the widow of James Fenimore Cooper’s oldest brother. He bought some land on Lake Otsego in 1817 and  commissioned a grand house which was built between 1817 and 1834 and considered the largest residence built in this country before the Civil War.

Cooperstown - Hyde Hall

Step inside for a taste of a Jane Austen life and some serious architecture envy…

Cooperstown - Hyde Hall

There are nearly 50 rooms in Hyde Hall, from the splendid entertaining areas to the modest staff quarters and all have a fascinating history divulged by your skilled guide. Restoration is ongoing and you’ll get to hear about (and perhaps see) the painstaking details of bringing the mansion back to its former glory.

Hyde Hall Reception Room
The Parlor

Most of the furnishings are original to the house and although many had been sold at auctions over time, volunteers are tracking them down and buying them back.

Hyde Hall Dining Room
The Main Dining Room
Hyde Hall Dining Room
Hyde Hall - Common eating room
Family Dining Room with View of the Courtyard
Hyde Hall Office
George Clark’s Office
Hyde Hall Reading Room
The Library
Window overlooking Otsego Lake - Hyde Hall
Staircase at Hyde Hall
Staff Staircase – details
Hyde Hall Pantry
The Pantry
Old Chinese Tea Box - Hyde Hall
Chinese Tea Box
Antique Serverware at Hyde Hall
Serverware
Hyde Hall Kitchen
The Kitchen – under renovation
Bells system for the entire house (i.e. for summoning the staff from different rooms)

The first phase of Hyde Hall was this lovely stone house (1817-1819) which contains the family living quarters.

Hyde Hall Front Porch

The views from the porch are exquisite and you can see Cooperstown in the distance some 8 miles away.

Porch at Hyde Hall
View of Otsego Lake from Hyde Hall

Look in the other direction and you’ll see the beach and hiking trails of Glimmerglass State Park adjoining the property on the north end of Otsego Lake.

Ending your visit of Hyde Hall with a forested walk in the park and some more picturesque views of the lake is to me the perfect way to spend an afternoon.

Glimmerglass State Park

You can also check in one more piece of history by stopping by Hyde Hall Bridge – the oldest documented, existing covered bridge in the United States.

Hyde Hall Bridge

It was built in 1825 on what was then the private property of Hyde Hall.

Hyde Hall Bridge
Hyde Hall Bridge

Continue your circumnavigation of the lake to reach a different kind of oasis – Origins Cafe. The much loved seasonal eatery just outside of Cooperstown is set within a garden center and is a wonderful place for a healthy lunch.

Origins Cafe near Cooperstown

Enjoy organic, seasonal dishes made from locally grown produce while sitting in the middle of a greenhouse, surrounded by flowers, plants, and the gurgling of water fountains – so restful!

Origins Cafe near Cooperstown
Origins Cafe near Cooperstown

Also on your way out of Cooperstown, you shouldn’t miss the hot spot that is Brewery Ommegang. The former farm has been transformed into the area’s most popular hangout and you can easily spend a few hours here being well fed and entertained.

Ommegang Brewery

The outdoor bar and terrace is a prime spot to savor the rich and excellent Belgian-style ales and partake into some lawn games.

Ommegang Brewery

The food menu is equally fun and delicious, especially the chicken and waffle topped with raspberry jam and maple bacon bechamel…

Ommegang Brewery - Chicken & Waffle

Don’t forget to visit the shop for some souvenirs. They have a decent selection of glasses, mugs and snacks perfect for pairing with the many brews you’ll be leaving with. The making of an epic picnic in this laid-back and gorgeous corner of Upstate New York.

Ommegang Brewery Shop
Main course Recipes Vegetarian

Roasted Squash with Black Rice and Orange Tahini Sauce

September 6, 2020

As we gently roll into September, the beginning of my favorite time of year, we’re starting to see shades of orange everywhere, from the early changing leaves in the north to the first pumpkins lining the roads. Orange epitomizes fall and I like to celebrate this most wondrous season by eating copious amounts of root vegetables, such as squash, sweet potatoes, etc.

This recipe from one of my favorite healthy cookbooks, My New Roots, pairs roasted squash with my favorite rice which I wanted to share with you: black rice. How I love this dark whole grain which is full of antioxidants with a nutty taste like no others. Drizzled with an orange tahini sauce, this dish is a nutrient-packed meal ideal for welcoming the cooler temps and fueling our harvest and apple-picking days.

Roasted Squash with Black Rice

Black rice is an heirloom variety of rice cultivated in Asia. What really sets it apart is its fiber-rich black husk which is still intact as the rice is sold unmilled. That outer bran layer is full is antioxidants which are also found in blueberries and açaí so you know it’s good for you. It’s also rich in complex carbs and good-quality digestible protein. Besides the health benefits, it’s the taste that will win you over: fruity and nutty with a very pleasant texture. Bonus? It turns a deep, gorgeous shade of purple as it cooks!

Black rice

Any type of squash would work well here so go with your preference or what’s available. I picked Kabocha squash (Japanese pumpkin) as I think they look prettier when cut up. You simply roast them in the oven with a bit of olive oil, garlic and salt.

Roasted Kabocha Squash

Roasted squash with black rice is like beautiful fall colors on a plate, but it’s missing one crucial element…

Roasted Squash with Black Rice

…an orange, maple syrup and chili-spiked tahini sauce to bind everything together into one filling, extremely yummy dish (and add a healthy dose of omega-3 fatty acids to the mix).

Roasted Squash with Black Rice
Roasted squash on a bed of black rice with chile and garlic, drizzled with an orange tahini sauce. A comforting, healthy and fragrant meal perfect for when the temperatures start to drop in the fall. You can substitute any squash and swap in brown rice for the black if you can't get access to it.

Total Time:60 min
Category:Entree
Yield:4
Preparation
1. Put the rice and a few pinches of salt in a small saucepan, add 3 cups water, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer covered, until the water is absorbed, 25 to 50 minutes (depending on how long you soaked the rice). Remove from the heat.

2. While the rice is cooking, roast the squash: Preheat the oven to 400°F / 200°C. Wash the squash skin well (if it's edible). Cut the squash in half, then remove the seeds and slice the squash into rounds or sections of approximately the same width. Put them in a single layer on a baking sheet, drizzle with melted oil, and sprinkle with the minced garlic and a few pinches of salt. Toss to coat. Roast the squash until tender, about 30 minutes.

3. For the sauce: Put the tahini, maple syrup, vinegar, tamari, orange zest and juice, ginger, and chile in a food processor or blender. Add 1/4 cup water, and blend on the highest setting until smooth. Season with salt if desired. Store any leftovers in a tightly sealed glass container in the fridge for up to 1 week.
Ingredients
1 1/2 cups (250g) black rice, soaked overnight if possible, rinsed and drained
Fine sea salt
1 medium squash or pumpkin about 2 pounds / 1 kg, such as Delicata or Hokkaido
Knob of coconut oil or ghee, melted
2 garlic cloves, minced
Freshly cracked black pepper
1/2 cup / 10g chopped flat-leaf parlsey
1/2 fresh chile, sliced (Serrano is a good choice)
Handful of raisins (optional)
For the sauce:
1/2 cup / 125ml tahini
2 teaspoons maple syrup
2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon tamari
Grated zest of 1 small orange (or tangerine)
1/3 cup / 80ml freshly squeezed orange juice
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 fresh chile (such as Serrano)
Flaky sea salt
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Americas Mexico Travels

Isla Espiritu Santo – The Galapagos of Mexico

August 30, 2020

If you’ve made it to La Paz and spent a few days living the life, eating your heart out and visiting the most gorgeous beaches and friendly whale sharks, chances are you would have heard of Espiritu Santo Island. Twenty-five kilometres off the coast of La Paz, Isla Espíritu Santo is widely regarded as the most beautiful island in the Sea of Cortez (which has more than 900 of them so no small feat!). You won’t want to miss a day trip to this UNESCO World Heritage Site, home to dreamy beaches, crystal-clear waters, and a super friendly colony of sea lions.

Isla Espiritu Santo

The best way to visit Isla Espiritu Santo is with an authorized tour operator, who will take you from La Paz to the island and back in about 7 hours. I met up with Punta Baja Tours one bright and sunny morning at Playa Pichilingue north of La Paz where we departed from a tranquil cove.

The hour-long boat ride takes you first along the scenic coast of the Baja peninsula…

… where you can get another perspective on its stunning beaches, such as Playa Balandra here seen from the boat.

Playa Balandra from the boat

Playa El Tecolote is another popular beach right next to Balandra, with more services but fewer jaw-dropping scenery.

Tecolote Beach

And then it’s on towards Isla Espiritu Santo, which is technically a small archipelago composed of five smaller islands.

Isla Espiritu Santo in the distance

The main island is roughly 31 square miles, uninhabited, and a protected biosphere reserve due to the incredible diversity of the creatures that call its otherworldly landscape and turquoise waters home.

Centuries of wind and water have carved dramatic cliffs into the volcanic strata of the island, revealing reds and blacks that contrast beautifully against the vivid green shrubs and cerulean sea.

Every few minutes appear small coves lined with pristine white sand.

Isla Espiritu Santo

A colony of Magnificent Frigate birds can be seen and heard from afar. Known to be the 7th fastest bird in the world, they surprisingly can’t swim despite spending all of their time near the water.

Beach on Isla Espiritu Santo

The main island connects with Isla Partida at its northernmost point via a narrow canal as you continue the boat ride north.

Isla Espiritu Santo

You’ll pass under a rock arch carved on the west side of Isla Partida, bringing you that much closer to the massive rainbow-colored cliffs you’ve been skirting and admiring for hours.

And soon you’ll have your eyes on the prize: the little group of islands at the northernmost part of the archipelago – Los Islotes.

The set of islets is home to a large sea lions colony (reportedly over 400!) and is a highlight of every tour to Isla Espiritu Santo.

They are literally everywhere, basking in the sun, frolicking in the water, peeking from caves and holes in the cliffs.

Las Islotes sea lions

All you hear besides the clapping of the water are the barks from the temperamental bulls, large black male seals that like to honk at tourists (and mostly defend their territory).

Las Islotes sea lions
Las Islotes sea lions
Las Islotes sea lions

While there’s plenty to see from the boat, the real thrill is jumping in the water with a snorkel and taking part in their afternoon play session.

Sea lion at Isla Espiritu Santo

I dare you to think of a recent experience that brought so much childish joy than having these juvenile sea lions swirl all around you. Definitely one for the bucket list!

Sea lion at Isla Espiritu Santo

Their curiosity and playfulness is contagious as they torpedo toward your face before swiftly changing course at the last minute, gracefully going up to take a breath before coming back down to play some more. What a treat.

Sea lion at Isla Espiritu Santo

Starving after this wild swim and still laughing at all the tricks these adorable creatures played on us, we stopped at yet another little piece of paradise: Playa Ensenada Grande.

Beach on Isla Espiritu Santo

Once voted the most beautiful beach in Mexico and ranked amidst the most gorgeous in the world, this dreamy stretch of sand is the perfect pit stop for lunch.

Beach on Isla Espiritu Santo

Ceviche and a cold beer in this natural setting… I’d do this everyday.

Ceviche!

On the way back, your guide will point out some impressive rock formations along the coast, such as ‘La Mascara‘ (the mask)…

…and the ‘devil’s profile‘ looking out to the sea.

We return at sunset which only multiplies the stunning views as we leave the islands behind.

The last few rays ignite the rocks, turning the peninsula and the island gorgeous hues of reds and oranges.

Isla Espiritu Santo at sunset

No wonder Isla Espiritu Santo is often referred to as the ‘Galapagos of Mexico’, and sometimes of North America.  Absolutely enamored with it, and the fact that it is one of those rare spots today where nature seems to thrive, unhindered and untouched.