Blog - Flying Fourchette

Quechee – Vermont’s ‘Little Grand Canyon’

November 28, 2020

Vermont’s deepest gorge is one of the state’s most spectacular natural wonders and makes for a lovely day out in nature. Situated on the Eastern Vermont border in the Upper Valley within Quechee State Park, the Quechee Gorge (pronounced kwee-chee) can be easily admired from the bridge that crosses it on Route 4, though you’ll want to get out of the car and explore the gorgeous surroundings.

The Ottauquechee River flows 165 feet below and gracefully snakes its way through the stunning autumnal display. There are a number of viewpoints from the bridge for your panoramic shots and then I’d suggest you take the easy Quechee Gorge Trail to see more of the spectacle.

The 2.7 miles out-and-back hike leads you right to the bottom of the gorge for an entirely different perspective.

All of this was formed some 13,000 years ago by glacial activity – the riverbed a spiky and stratified witness to nature’s retreat.

Back up and over the gorge, the trail ends at the dam where the river cascades down to the bottom of the gorge.

A few minutes drive away is Quechee Village, one of five unincorporated villages in the town of Hartford, VT. It’s a quiet and upscale community with picturesque country roads, antique stores, a country club and several quaint covered bridges.

The main covered bridge in Quechee, up the river from the gorge you just explored, is the ideal vantage point to take in the small village center.

Taking center stage is the original Simon Pearce‘s glassblowing mill which also houses the flagship store from this Irish-born glassmaker and the eponymous fine dining restaurant. He certainly knew how to pick a location!

After shopping his finely crafted glassware and pottery (tours of the workshop are on hold during COVID), you can dine on elevated Irish fare while precariously perched right above the waterfall.

Another worthwhile stop nearby in the town of Norwich is the headquarters of King Arthur Baking Company. If you’ve been caught up in the ‘baking epidemic’ that has recently swarmed all over the world, you’ll love peeking into America’s oldest flour company’s campus.

There’s a cafe and bakery to have a snack either indoor or on their terrace outside…

…but it’s the expansive store that’ll have amateur bakers clap for joy upon seeing rows and rows of ingredients, tools and pans to create every baked goods under the sun. They also have a school if you wish to hone your skills in a particular area.

You can round up your road trip with a nice walk at the Path of Life Sculpture Garden.

Inspired by a famous garden in Europe, you get to experience the ‘circle of life’ by traveling through eighteen works of art of varying sizes and materials, from birth to death and beyond.

It’s a great family destination, and I can imagine kids just loving the hemlock maze (which isn’t that easy to get out of!).

An amphitheater filled with sculptures of rock band members symbolizes creativity.

Towards the end of the path, a Buddha overlooks a stone labyrinth, allowing for a period of contemplation and enlightenment before sending you to the garden of death followed by rebirth….and so it goes. A fine way to end (or continue on) this little road trip in one of the loveliest corners of Vermont.

Americas Travels US

Slowing Down in Grafton, Vermont

November 22, 2020

There’s no point sugar-coating it: 2020 has been (and still is) one hell of a stressful year. While big international trips are still a no-go, many of us have found solace in getting into our cars and heading away from the big cities to local, natural gems. There’s no shortage of them around me and Vermont, with its bucolic landscapes and unspoiled villages, was everything I needed right now.

A scenic 2.5 hrs drive from my house (around 4hrs from New York City) through the Green Mountain National Forest already lifts the weight of months of confinement anxiety. Winding through the mountains with the fresh smell of pine trees wafting through the car is pure relaxation therapy. Having left the main road behind and now slowly following a meandering dirt lane, I passed a few picturesque rural estates before seeing an opening ahead where soil turned to pavement, and a vintage-looking sign nailed to a tree said “Welcome to Grafton”.

Little has changed in this Vermont village since its heyday a century and a half ago and that’s why it’s considered one of the prettiest in New England. Come in the fall to admire the blazing foliage color or winter for a quiet weekend straight out of a fine art painting.

Once a thriving town on the Boston-Albany post road, Grafton made its living from cheese-making (which you can still enjoy today), sheepherding, tanning, sawmills, etc. But as witnessed elsewhere, the 20th century saw many of these industries become obsolete and the noble town suffered a serious decline. Thankfully, a local foundation was established to preserve its lovely historic buildings and the town’s rural economy.

The general store has a great selection of seasonal food and snacks with a strong focus on artisanal products. Grab a sandwich and a salad and sit down at one of the tables set under the trees for a glimpse at local life and a few of the 600 village residents.

The real heart of the town though is no doubt The Grafton Inn. In operation since 1801, its rooms and tavern have catered to many passing travelers. I can’t think of a better vantage point than sitting on a rocking chair on the broad, columned porch.

One of the few shops in town, Mercantile has gifts and home goods to give an air of ‘upscale country chic’ to your abode with a few chosen antiques and paintings lovingly displayed in this former home.

Make sure you visit the cheese shop at the back of the store to sample some of the local cheddar. The Grafton Village Cheese Co is preserving 100 year-old tradition in cheesemaking by still making their cheese by hand right here in the village and only using premium raw milk from local family farms. Their line of cheddars is pretty extensive, from aged reserve to flavors like sage, smoked chili, truffle and maple smoked – you’ll want to grab a few for the road.

Strolling the village is perhaps the best meditation of all. Every side street will conjure the kind of idyllic scenes we’ve all associated with this part of the country. Pretty little white houses with black trimmings, perfectly manicured lawns, babbling brooks and secret gardens with mountains in the distance… classic southern Vermont.

Peace and quiet are what attract visitors to this little haven that really isn’t on a road to anywhere. You come here to get away from it all so that makes Grafton a pretty hot destination for 2020 and beyond…

And of course the picture wouldn’t be complete without the old covered bridge which you’ll find at the end of a street. There are a lot of them in the area, enough to fill an afternoon drive if you feel like it. But why would you leave… this nature escape was exactly what the doctor ordered.

Main course Recipes

Pork with Persimmons and Mustard Greens

November 8, 2020

The sight in late fall of gorgeous persimmons is enough to send me aflutter – I simply adore them. Eaten raw as a snack, tossed in a salad or paired with cheese, I sneak them into my diet as much as I can during their short season, keeping a large case in plain view on my kitchen counter for immediate reward.

Persimmons can also be cooked and turned into jams, tarts and cakes with wonderful results. But have you ever tried them in a savory recipe? Their fragrance and sweetness is a perfect complement to roasted pork. Swap your usual apples with these beautiful orange fruits in this super easy recipe I found in my Martha Stewart Living magazine. It’ll add a splash of exoticism and stunning fall flavors to your traditional pork roast.

One of the best things about this recipe is how hands-off it is. With less than 15 minutes prep time, it’s really a ‘throw it together and cook’ situation. You simply cut your persimmons (just ripe Fuyu persimmons are the best here) in segments, toss them with oil and garlic, and scatter them around your seasoned pork loin in a cast iron pan. Roast in the oven for 35-40 minutes, turning the persimmons halfway and…voilà!

When the roast is ready and resting, briefly sauté some mustard greens in the same pan until tender (about 2 minutes) and start assembling your very eye-pleasing serving dish. A quick reduction of Marsala wine (always in the same pan) makes for a quick and delish sauce to drizzle over it all.

So simple, so pleasing to look at and absolutely delicious. The caramelized persimmons add the right amount of sweetness to the savory pork and slightly bitter greens. This would be a perfect centerpiece for a small gathering and I’d even venture a possible turkey replacement for Thanksgiving with our COVID crowd limitations?

Either way, if you do see persimmons at your grocery store, don’t hesitate and grab them. This is a fall and winter dinner you’ll come back to again and again. It’ll make you fall in love with these Japanese beauties if you hadn’t succumbed to their irresistible taste before.

Roasted pork loin with sweet persimmons and bright mustard greens - an impressively simple and quick dinner for the fall and winter months that is packed with flavors and nutritious.

Cook Time:	45 min
Prep Time:	15 min
Total Time:	60 min
Yield:	6

Preparation

1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Season pork with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Place pork in a 12-inch cast-iron or other heavy ovenproof skillet.

2. Toss persimmons and garlic with oil; season with salt and pepper. Scatter around pork. Roast 15 minutes. Turn over persimmons, and continue to roast until pork reaches an internal temperature of 125 degrees, 20 to 25 minutes. Transfer pork to a cutting board, tent with foil, and let rest 15 minutes (pork will continue to cook as it cools). Meanwhile, if persimmons are still firm, roast until fork-tender.

3. Transfer persimmons to a serving platter. Add mustard greens to pan. Season with salt, and saute over medium heat until tender, about 2 minutes. Transfer greens to platter. Add wine to pan, and cook until reduced by two-thirds. Thinly slice pork, and arrange on top of the persimmons and greens. Spoon sauce over top, and serve.

Ingredients

2 pounds pork loin
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1 pound persimmons, tops trimmed, cut into 1 1/2-inch wedges
6 garlic cloves, peeled
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 bunch (14 ounces) mustard greens, large stems removed
1/2 cup Marsala wine

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Main course Recipes Vegetarian

Soba Noodles with Seaweed

October 31, 2020

Seaweed can be a little scary to add to your pantry. They’re mostly seen as the slimy, slippery annoyance from your beach days – not something you’re dying to sink your teeth into! I really warmed up to them during my numerous trips to Asia where they’re a prominent part of the diet, especially in Japan, China and Korea. Now I rarely order sushi without a side of seaweed salad and always seek out recipes where I can add some of this superfood for added benefits.

This soba noodle salad is a great way to gently introduce seaweed into your diet and all of their vitamins and minerals – they’re real nutritional powerhouse. Fairly neutral in taste with a slightly salty/oceanic flavor, they combine wonderfully here with earthy soba noodles (made of buckwheat), cucumber and a flavorful vinaigrette. An easy and healthy Japanese meal from Ottolenghi’s Plenty which should erase all of your fears really!

Soba noodles are usually served cold which makes this meal prep super easy. Cook them for 4-5 minutes before cooling off in cold water, julienne your cucumbers and soak the seaweed of your choice before assembling everything. I used hijiki as I already had some at home but wakame or nori would work equally well. The sweet and spicy dressing brings it all together beautifully.

Mix well and add a good quantity of mint and cilantro for extra freshness and you’re done!

Toasted sesame seeds and sprouts add texture and crunch as garnish.

Think of this as your healthier pasta salad that’s substantial enough for a winter lunch and light enough to not make you drowse mid-afternoon… you can thank the fiber-rich and low calories soba noodles for that. I love the fresh and zingy taste, and the slippery noodles are super fun to eat.

The best thing about this dish is that it keeps like a charm, perfect for a quick lunch between two Zoom meetings and you don’t even need to warm it up!

A cold Japanese pasta salad that is super easy to prepare and packed with good for you vitamins and minerals. The combination of earthy noodles, crunchy cucumber, sweet-and-spicy dressing, and salty seaweed is a winner and leftovers are even better.

Total Time:	60 min
Yield:	4-6

Preparation

1. Shred the cucumbers using a mandolin or a food processor, and place the thin strips in a colander. Sprinkle with two teaspoons of salt, stir, and leave for at least 30 minutes, so the cucumber releases as much liquid as possible.

2. Put the noodles in a pot of boiling water and cook for four to five minutes (or as instructed on the packet). Drain, refresh in a stream of cold water, then set aside to dry.

3. Soak the seaweed in warm water until it softens up, about 10 minutes for wakame and 30 minutes for hijiki (follow the instructions on your package). Drain, then remove and discard tough 'stalks' if using wakame. Cut or tear the rest into large pieces and put these in a large mixing bowl. Add the noodles and cucumber.

4. Whisk together all of the sauce ingredients and add this to the bowl. Stir gently, then add the sesame seeds, coriander, mint and radish sprouts. Stir and taste - you want a sweetish, tart flavour with a kick. If needed, add salt, more vinegar or sugar.

5. To serve, pile the noodles into bowls and garnish with radish sprouts.

Ingredients

2 large cucumbers, unpeeled
2 tsp salt
300g (11oz) soba noodles
60g (2-oz package) wakame or other seaweed
1/2 cup toasted sesame seeds
2 cups cilantro leaves, roughly chopped
3/4 cup mint, roughly chopped
1 1/3 cup radish sprouts, plus extra for garnish
For the sauce:
2 tbsp rice vinegar
Grated zest of 2 limes
1/4 cup (60ml) lime juice
1 tbsp grated ginger
2 chillies, finely chopped (or fewer if you don't like it hot)
1 tbsp palm sugar
2 tbsp sesame oil
2 tbsp peanut oil
1 tbsp sweet chilli sauce
1 garlic clove, crushed
½ tsp salt

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Americas Colombia Travels

An Art Tour of Bogotá, Colombia

October 25, 2020

The art scene in Bogotá has been growing exponentially over the last decade. Just driving into the city from the airport has become a visual appetizer of sorts with some of the city’s biggest sponsored murals lining the main artery of Avenida El Dorado (Calle 26). This open-air museum makes wandering the streets in search of striking visuals a fun and rewarding way to discover the city (and walk off all the food you’ll be ingesting).

Thanks to the decriminalization of graffiti in 2011, Bogotá is one of the most street-art-friendly cities on Earth and a real mecca for art lovers. Head to the historical part of the city, La Candelaria, for some of the best work from local and international artists spread on everything from storefronts to hotels and parks.

The murals are so condensed around here that you need to do a 360 on every corner to catch them all and I’d say it’s probably not even possible seeing how many there are (I heard it was around 6000?). There’s a famous graffiti tour that operates daily and is often led by artists themselves. It gives great information on the various artists and themes and is totally worth your time if you can squeeze it in.

While you’re in La Candelaria, you won’t want to miss a visit to the Botero Museum set in a beautiful colonial mansion.

If the name Fernando Botero doesn’t ring a bell, the moment you lay your eyes on his chubby characters will surely bring a smile to your face in obvious recognition.

Although his home is in Medellin, Colombia’s most famous living artist has donated more than 100 of his own works along with a large number of paintings from his personal collection (including some Picasso, Monet and Matisse) to Banco de la República which has created the museum and made them available to view free of charge in Bogotá since 2000.

The term “Boterismo” now refers to his particular aesthetic of bloated figures and objects, an entirely unique perspective that is beloved in Colombia and all over the world.

He’s also a gifted sculptor and you’ll get to admire his love of curves in 3D with numerous bronze statues displayed across the museum.

I don’t think I can get over how adorable these nudes are… as I walk out to feast on carbs and meat as one does here. 😉

A few blocks away, it’s a different kind of art you’ll see in Bogotá’s Museo del Oro.

The museum houses the most famous jewelry exhibit in the world with its collection of gold and emeralds and it’s only a fraction of what’s on display. It’s one of the most visited sites in the country and deserves a part of your day – ideal activity for a rainy day or when you need a break from chasing murals up steep alleyways!

With roughly 30,000 pieces, the immense collection can draw you in for hours. Follow your gaze and get close to what catches your eyes – some are so intricate it’s incredible to think of the craftmanship that existed hundreds of years ago.

More than eye candy, it’s a fascinating look into the various indigenous populations that called the region home in pre-Hispanic times. There’s stunning jewelry of course, but also ceremonial masks, funeral vessels, housewares, statues, etc…. which honestly would all look dazzling in my home today.

Some artifacts are so special that they even have a dedicated room, such as the below Balsa Muisca, or Muisca Raft – the museum’s star attraction. Discovered in a cave outside Bogotá, this miniature raft is directly connected to the legend of El Dorado. It represents the initiation ceremony during which the heir to the chieftainship covered his body with gold dust and jumped into the lake (Guatavita) along with gold offerings and emeralds to the gods. It’s only about 10 inches long and is made of 229 grams of pure gold with some copper and silver.

In El Retiro, modern shopping malls are adorned with vivid murals and art galleries stand next to apparel stores, proof that Bogotá’s commitment to arts truly transcends neighborhoods.

With over 100 commercial galleries, there’s something for everyone and an ever expanding platform for local talent to shine.

Art Gallery in Bogota — Gallery El Museo

Venture a bit outside the city center to step into the wonderful world of Distrito Graffiti – an industrial district turned outdoor gallery.

The city has invited over 50 artists to unleash their creative expression over two long blocks of warehouses to marvelous effects.

With walls as high as seven stories, the sky’s the limit for these stunning murals, depicting everything from women’s rights and tribal communities to wildlife and cartoon characters. Feast your eyes and learn about what’s on Bogotanos’ minds walking its streets and keeping your head up.