Seogwipo, Jeju’s second largest city, is where you should base yourself if you only have a few days on the island. With beautiful coastal scenery, easy access to the main highlights including Mount Hallasan, and plenty of food options in a walkable city center, doing day trips from here to explore Jeju is ideal.
The city is perfect for nature lovers with several leafy parks and waterfalls all within its limits. Start at the waterfront by visiting Saeseom Island which you access from the sail-like bridge that stretches across the harbor.
A densely wooded trail takes you around the island on boardwalk, leading to great views of the coast, perfect for a quick sunset stroll.
Back on the harbor, a few minutes walk away will lead you to a beautifully forested gorge, following a shaded path with bridges and temples.
Your destination is the popular Cheonjiyeon Waterfall, literally right in the center of town.
From there you can walk up the hill to get to the city center, stopping for a quick refreshment with views on the way.
Visiting the local market is always a highlight for me and you won’t regret passing through Seogwipo Olle Market. It’s as laid-back as the town and a wonderful opportunity to sample some of the locally-grown produce and traditional foods.
Fruits are in abundance, especially the local tangerines which are clearly not all created equal with quality grading and varying prices.
Lots of fresh seafood too which is harder to try when traveling, but there’s plenty of sweets and donuts stalls that make for a quick and easy snack.
For something more filling, street food options abound. You could get some of that fresh seafood prepared Japanese style or try a local specialty, like this black pork kimchi roll which they finish with a blow torch right in front of you. So so good!
The streets surrounding the market are vibrant and filled with cute cafes and galleries. Look for two playful Shibas in front of a cream-colored storefront to find the refreshing treat you were looking for…
… freshly made monakas! The Japanese dessert is most often found in convenience stores but here they make it to order right in front of you – two thin, crisp wafers sandwiching your choice of homemade ice cream. I went with strawberry which was light and the combo of crunchy and cold ice cream was just heavenly.
A 15-minute walk east of the town center will bring you to yet another waterfall – Jeongbang. While not as big or as dramatic as other waterfalls nearby, its claim to fame is that it’s the only waterfall in Asia that falls into the ocean…hence a favorite with photographers.
When it comes to picking a place to stay, there are plenty of attractive options from modern city hotels to seafront resorts, but one stood out for me and ended up being a truly memorable stay: Jeju Bom Museum Stay.
Perched on one of the hills outside of town amid tangerine farms, this artsy boutique hotel had everything I wanted: quiet surroundings, gorgeous sea views, impeccable design, its own museum (!), beautiful art everywhere, and a warm family hosting you.
There’s a peaceful sculpture garden where you can just meander or sit and relax by the pond.
Your stay also includes a private tour of the museum’s two permanent exhibitions: one with works from a famous Korean sculptor, and the other one a site-specific installation of traditional Korean paper hanging above water, both mesmerizing.
You can grab a drink at the hotel bar/restaurant (local beer + peanuts hit the spot) or indulge in a convenience store snack which I love doing all over Asia. Bungeoppang are Korean fish shaped pastries filled with various fillings such as sweet red bean paste, yummy!
Back into town, Cafe Pausa has tangerine blossom wine made by the owner, a slightly sweet and delightful drink to enjoy while watching the sun go down.
Dinner options are plentiful and range from street food to casual sit downs and fancier affairs. I really enjoyed my meal at Leogkisanghoe Seasonal Fish, a must try for seafood lovers if you come to Seogwipo. The kimchi fried rice with egg and the raw tuna belly tartare were both incredible.
Now for a superlative raw fish experience, book a seat at the tiny Hachi restaurant just outside Seogwipo. With only 8 seats, it’s an intimate omakase experience you’ll remember, prepared and served with smiles and conversation by Chef Jun Seok-chang, formerly of Lotte Hotel in Seoul.
The never-ending dishes (not all of them featured here) were varied and exquisite. I especially appreciated having a chance to taste fresh fish caught in Jeju which I had never heard of before.
I honestly don’t know how I was able to ingest so many pieces but that’s just a testament to the quality which was superb.
It’s all right, tomorrow I’ll be burning all those extra calories going up Mount Hallasan…
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