With a vibrant mix of tech-forward and deeply traditional culture, Seoul offers a wonderfully diverse blend of experiences for visitors. The trick is in planning your itinerary carefully to take in as much of what interests you in the second largest metropolitan area in the world! From ancient palaces and temples to K-Pop and mountain trails, you can tailor your days to your own taste and reveal the most appealing urban side of Seoul.
I packed in a lot in five days in the city and while I didn’t cover everything I wanted to see, I feel I got an ideal mix of sights and local experiences. This is the first in a series of several posts on Seoul in no particular order to give you a taste of the breadth of things to see and do and let you do your own picking… Most people start in the centuries-old heart of Seoul, the Jongno district, where the main palaces are juxtaposed with galleries and cafe-filled streets.
Gyeongbokgung Palace
Considered the epicenter of old Seoul, Gyeongbokgung Palace (the Palace Greatly Blessed by Heaven) is Seoul’s first palace built by the founder of the Joseon dynasty in 1395. It’s a great place to start your exploration of the city and get over your jet lag as you wander around some of Seoul’s grandest architectural gems and get a good introduction to Korean culture.
What you’re seeing today is a recent reconstruction since the royal palace was destroyed during the Japanese invasions, including the mythical lion-like creatures greeting you by the imposing Gwanghwamun gate.
Renting a traditional hanbok is a popular thing to do and you’ll easily find rental shops all around the main palaces if you want to bring back original portraits (plus it gives you free entry into the palaces!). Even if you don’t play dress up, you’ll find the majority of locals do and you’ll appreciate the timeless aesthetics it’ll bring to your pictures.
Peak inside the main palace building for a dose of ornate decorations – this is where kings were crowned, met foreign envoys and conducted affairs of state.
Despite its popularity, visiting Gyeongbokgung comes with a surprising amount of quieter moments. The largest palace in Korea, it once consisted of 330 buildings (and 7,700 rooms!) with up to 3000 staff serving the royal family. Take your time wandering through this small city built in a labyrinthine style and finding hidden corners away from the crowds.
Look for the “Wall of Longevity” outside Jagyeongjeon Hall (the queen’s main residence), a beautiful chimney embossed with the ten symbols of longevity, mostly animals and trees, as a wish for the queen’s long life.
Terraced gardens invite picnickers and serene photoshoots.
At the northern edge of the compound you’ll find more residential halls for the king’s personal use in verdant surroundings.
An attractive hexagonal pavilion on an island in the middle of a pond invites contemplation, especially amid the colorful fall foliage. Benches all around lets you sit and admire the beautiful view and take a rest from all the walking.
Capture views of Bukaksan mountain in the back, a popular day hike if time permits.
To the west, the stunning Gyeonghoeru pavilion emerges from an artificial lake on 48 stone pillars. It used to host royal banquets and is now a favorite background for portraits and selfies.
Before exiting, a stop at the National Palace Museum of Korea is a worthwhile addition to learn some more background info on the Joseon Dynasty & the royal family. It’ll come in handy for the rest of your stay in the country.
Medicinal Lunch
Considering you will have spent a few hours touring the palace, head straight out towards lunch a few blocks away in a traditional (and very popular) establishment – Tosokchon Samgyetang. Get used to seeing long queues outside of every well-known spots in the city and just get in line – this is an experience worth waiting for.
Tosokchon is famous for its samgyetan (ginseng chicken soup), a nutritious meal that used to be served only to royalty. As is traditionally done in Korean cuisine, the soup comes with a number of accompaniments and the restaurant was clever enough to provide an illuminating guide on how to eat everything and in what order – no chance for an embarrassing faux pas!
Try the slightly pricier black chicken version, which uses the silky breed with naturally black flesh and bones to surprising effect. The soup is made with a whole young chicken that is stuffed with glutinous rice and simmered in a broth with ginseng, garlic, jujubes and various nuts for a comforting and medicinal meal.
Downtown Stroll
Head back towards the palace’s main gate and walk south across Gwanghwamun Square, one of the city’s many open spaces built as part of Seoul’s environmentally friendly redevelopment. Pass fountains, cafes, and imposing statues such as that of Admiral Yi Sun-sin, a 16th-century Korean admiral and war hero.
Soon you’ll reach Cheonggye Plaza once you spot the enormous pink-and-blue shell entitled Spring. This place marks the beginning of Cheonggyecheon, a revitalized stream with waterfalls, landscaped walkways and footbridges that traverses the downtown area over 6 miles.
It makes for a delightful riverside walk any time of day and when you need a break from the urban hustle and heavy traffic. Locals gather here to relax, dangle their feet in the water, catch some temporary art installations, etc.
Insadong
Make your way to the maze-like and gallery-filled streets of Insadong just a few blocks north of the street to end your day with some good shopping and eating.
Traditional Korean treats such as hangwa are making a comeback and come in pretty packages ideal to bring back home. The grain-based confections coated in a hodgepodge of dried fruits, seeds, and nuts also make a healthy snack for your trip.
Multi-level shopping malls flank the main pedestrian street filled with Korean designer shops. Look for original handicrafts, fashion and homewares and grab a coffee or sweet on the rooftop terrace to get a nice view over the vibrant neighborhood.
Just up the street, an unassuming staircase leads to a second floor restaurant – Bonjuk Insadong. Serving mainly juk (Korean rice porridge), it’s a cozy place to try this traditional Korean dish usually eaten for breakfast.
There’s a porridge to suit everyone’s taste, from vegetarian and crab with abalone intestine to sweet versions. It’s quick, filling, and reasonably priced.
A stone’s throw away, pay a colorful visit to Jogyesa Temple, the center of Korean Buddhism.
Come for a bit of respite from the bustling shopping district and enjoy the gorgeous installations that change with the seasons, from lanterns and lotus plants to flowers.
At the center of it all, a giant tree (Chinese Scholar Tree) rises more than 85 feet high and is over 450 years old – a sight to behold.
End your day with an evening walk along the stream which looks totally different under the night lights.
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