This was it, the last early morning prep of bandaging our feet and stretching our now well-oiled muscles for the final 15 mile leg. Hard to believe we’d be crossing the finish line in Fort William this afternoon which meant nearly 85 miles now separated us from where we started in Milngavie just 6 days ago… Tiny Kinlochleven was just waking up too, waiting for the sun to rise above the mountain range to warm up the village.
A generous breakfast of local smoked kipper and eggs started the day just right with a healthy protein boost. I was really going to miss being served such comforting and delicious local dishes by cheery Scots every morning!
In less than 5 minutes we had crossed Kinlochleven on its single road, on our way to the mountains!
We soon left the pavement to follow a steep, winding climb out of the village through birch trees.
This surprise workout quickly gave us fantastic views over Loch Leven and Kinlochleven, both hugged by beautiful mountains on each side.
We emerged from the trees to find ourselves on a wide and familiar military road.
Another wonderfully remote valley was the backdrop to our morning walk.
After a week of sharing the path (and sometimes B&Bs) with other walkers, there was a definite camaraderie that had built up. We recognized each other on the trail by our jackets, gait, comrades, etc. and enthusiastically traded walking partners to get to know each other a bit more. It was probably a mix of excitement at the approaching conclusion of our common physical challenge and need for social connection in such a remote area that made everyone so talkative on day 7 – it was a blast!
Sometimes we’d just sigh deeply looking all around with a big grin. No words were needed even among complete strangers to express how lucky we felt to be in such a stunning place.
With only a few derelict farmhouses, shelters, and the occasional sheep as photo diversions, the chatter and new introductions continued all day.
Halfway through, the landscape changed to a beautiful area of cultivated forest. The narrowed path started undulating up and down with a few gate crossings to keep the sheep in.
We soon got our first sight of the day of Ben Nevis, Britain’s highest mountain, with a light snow cover at the top.
It would dip in and out of view as we zigzagged our way through a series of dense conifer plantations.
The final descent was on a wide forest track, quite unremarkable except for the occasional views of the “suburbs” of Fort William.
Once you make it down, you have to walk along a busy road to reach the center of Fort William. The Way passes by the entrance to Ben Nevis if you fancy adding a grueling climb to an already long day! I must admit this was probably the least favorite part of the entire Way (hence no photos!) which many describe as a very anticlimactic end – agreed. Having to walk 2 miles on the pavement with cars rushing by is not the grand finish one would hope for but there you go. To add to the ordeal, as you finally enter Fort William proper you pass by what used to be the official end of the West Highland Way. It has since been relocated further, adding another 15 or so minutes to your walk past shops and restaurants…
Just as we stepped into the historic downtown area, a little drizzle started to fall. To think we had managed to escape the rain for 90% of our trek is just unthinkable and only then did we realize how lucky we’d been. Fort William being one of the wettest locations in the British Isles would not be so kind but a drizzle we could handle.
Our last few hundred feet were accompanied by laughter and a huge sense of relief. We soon bumped into a few other walkers we had met on the trail, merrily downing pints at an outdoor terrace. And just behind them… the real end of the Way at Gordon Square, by the aptly named Sore Feet statue. There was a beautiful local brewery right behind where we literally ran to right after the obligatory pic.
A quick check in to our lovely B&B (Myrtle Bank Guest House – left) and we soon rushed to our dinner reservation at the nearby Lime Tree Restaurant. 15 miles + beers = two starving walkers in need of celebratory calories.
And celebrate we did with a half bottle of champagne and a local, very fine whiskey. As much as we would have wanted to, evenings along the Way were rarely fueled by anything other than a small glass of wine or a beer. the early mornings and long days on the trail discouraging most of us from imbibing freely. That final night though was different – I had no plan for the following day besides chilling in Fort William and resting my legs before the return home so… “Slàinte Mhath“!
Sea trout with mussels, asparagus, peas, broccoli, and a white wine veloute hit all the right spots…
Chocolate mousse dome and Basque cheesecake helped replenish our glucose levels and put enough spring in our steps to make it back to our B&B a few doors down.
And what better way to end this adventure than with a short and scenic walk at sunset along the loch. An incredible 7 days and 95 miles that were over too soon, yet my feet were pretty happy to be out of the hiking boots for a little bit! I owe so many thanks to mother nature for sparing us from the rain and snow and letting us see the Highlands with full visibility. Truly one of the greatest long walks anywhere… strongly recommend all my readers to look up the West Highland Way and start planning!
