There are times when you just know you’re going to fall in love with a city way before getting there and Oaxaca was definitely the case for me. I had booked a five-week stay sight unseen in this southern Mexican state’s capital and already feel like it was much too short… Oaxaca City (or Oaxaca de Juárez as it is also called) is for sure incredibly beautiful, but it’s the cultural and culinary richness that elevates it to the highest ranks and turns even the most blasé traveler into a lifelong devotee.
Attempting to weave a comprehensive history lesson spanning thousands of years within the pages of this blog would be futile but know that history is engraved in every stone and morsel of food you’ll encounter here. Nowhere else in Mexico can you get a more diverse and well-preserved version of the country’s indigenous past and I’ll try where I can to drop some enlightening and hopefully educational nuggets. But for the most part this is mostly a walking tour of the city center, one where you eat an awful lot since that’s the main thing to do in Mexico’s culinary capital…
Let’s start with breakfast – a meal way too many people skip and one that is done oh so right in Mexico and especially Oaxaca. You could eat practically anything for breakfast here: meat, eggs, beans, tortillas, stews, chocolate, cheese, sweet breads…the list goes on. It is usually very filling to get you through a big portion of the day and really helped in curbing my sweet tooth with such amazing savory offerings.
Breakfast
Before I go into the more traditional options, Oaxaca being a cosmopolitan city after all with many expats has the advantage of catering equally well to those of us who enjoy a good pastry here and then too. There are only so many chilaquiles and huevos rancheros I can eat in a week and thankfully the city boasts a few fantastic European-style bakeries and restaurants to curb that craving.
Boulenc is by far the most popular of the “non-Mexican” breakfast options and the line out the door should tell you as much. Come here to get your carb fix whether through their great sourdough bread (the avocado toast is famous) or any of their pastries. Their croissants are divine, the coffee is decent and the vibe of the hip cafe makes for a winning brunch destination. If you can’t bear to wait in line, their take-out bakery next door has everything including pizzas and sweet desserts for you to take to the park or your AirBnB.
My favorite bakery through has to be Pan con Madre, one of the artisanal bakeries in Oaxaca who pioneered the introduction of sourdough bread in the city (most breads in Mexico are sweet and locals weren’t used to the yeast flavor). You can smell it from at least a block away and you literally walk into the bakery with the bakers busy baking breads and pasties all day in front of you. You’ll find flavors not seen anywhere else like cardamom spirals, cheese and fig paste buns, dulce de leche rolls, and their famous fresh focaccia which comes out everyday I believe at 11am. You can see their baking schedule on the door if you want to time your visit to get a warm specimen or before they sell out which they often do.
A block away is one of the best coffee you’ll find in all of the city at Café Caracol Púrpura. They roast their own coffee which you can buy and can make any type of extraction you fancy as well as traditional Oaxacan chocolate. Plus they’re located in a super quiet street away from the bustle of the center.
Now let’s move to more traditional Mexican offerings. Pan:am Abasolo is a popular casual brunch restaurant with a lovely courtyard patio and efficient service. A go-to option for any day really.
I’d recommend the house chilaquiles which come in a number of options and suggest doubling down on the cheese…. Yep, got mine with a side of grilled queso and it was spot on.
Historical buildings fill the center of Oaxaca.
For a more upscale brunch (and view), few places rival Tierra del Sol and its roof terrace overlooking the back of the cathedral and the Sierra Norte mountains in the distance. Settling here for a leisurely breakfast is honestly one of the best way to spend one’s morning in Oaxaca.
Prices are obviously high as expected but the service is impeccable, you get a nice complimentary bowl of fresh fruits (!), and the view is enchanting.
The traditional menu is extensive so you can try a variety of local dishes which will fill you up for a large part of your day.
Thankfully getting the digestion going is easy with a plethora of picturesque streets to walk around all day long. North of the center you’ll find a pocket of peace in El Llano, a nicely shaded park that was my refuge on hot afternoons.
Take a seat and watch local life unfolds with kids learning roller skating tricks, food trucks handing out ice cream, churros and burgers, and lovers stealing kisses under a canopy of trees.
Heart-shaped recycling containers embellished by local artists are waiting to be filled around the centro…
One thing you soon learn in Oaxaca is that colonial architecture is but a façade always hiding some incredible treasures. The city blocks are long and wide and stepping into every opened door is the key to discovering the best of the city, hiding in plain sight. One such discovery is the inconspicuous Mercado Organico La Cosecha on the northern side.
Inside, you’ll find a vibrant organic market opened from morning to late afternoon with delicious breakfast and lunch options, on top of groceries and handcrafts to bring home.
It’s here that you can sample pozontle, a ceremonial indigenous drink made up of cacao, corn, panela (sugar) and water.
The frothy concoction is a splendid pick-me-up between meals, the little wooden spoon used to catch the grains of fresh corn sitting at the bottom.
For something bigger, you have the choice between a number of prepared food vendors who’ll get you a traditional meal in a matter of minutes from tamales and enchiladas to ceviche and salads. Oh, and fresh juices to die for (it’s usually the longest line).
You can even buy a few souvenirs or apparel while you’re there for a reasonable price.
Right across from La Cosecha you’ll find one of the most photographed streets in Oaxaca – Calle de Xólotl.
It leads to a beautiful quaint plaza – Plaza de Cruz de Piedra.
Sit on the stone steps and order a coffee from Cafe el Volador on the corner and linger here for a while…it’s an enchanting corner of the city bathed in light and colors.
Around the corner, scenic Manuel García Vigil street is lined with art shops and restaurants.
Lunch
Tiny, simple, rustic, and absolutely charming, Coquina Hua Xha is as close to eating in your grandma’s home as you’re going to get. The husband and wife duo are a pleasure to watch and the homemade dishes are all flavorful and healthy with tons of fresh vegetables and herbs.
Nearby La Casa del Tío Güero is a popular spot with a filling menu and delicious moles in an old, art-filled colonial home.
Even if you’re not vegan, a meal at Hierba Dulce is sure to wow you. The plant-based restaurant makes everything in house and sitting in their lush and serene courtyard is enough to make you feel completely rejuvenated. I tried tepache for the first time (a fermented pineapple-based drink, prepared with tamarind and passion fruit) and their version of enfrijoladas (handmade tortillas dipped in red bean sauce and stuffed with purple potatoes with almond cheese and cream). It was divine.
Don’t skip the desserts which are as rich and scrumptious as the rest of the menu. I opted for the Oaxaca Chocolate Creamy – two balls of rich artisanal local chocolate ganache…
Mexican cooking varies from region to region but honestly no state comes close to Oaxaca for sheer variety. Oaxaca has eight regional culinary styles with the most prevalent being that from the central valleys which you’ll find throughout the city (the moles, tlayudas, memelas, etc.). One regional cuisine that has started gaining popularity is Istmeño cuisine from Isthmus region of Oaxaca. It brings exotic and tropical flavors that are worth seeking out and one of the best places to get your introduction is at Zandunga Sabor Istmeño Centro.
The large and festive venue is equally fabulous during daytime or at night with a mezcal cocktail in the courtyard. You’ll find artisanal shops surrounding the courtyard for browsing and souvenir shopping which makes it an ideal stop on a tour of the city.
The menu of Istmeño classics includes garnachas, small fried discs of masa topped with shredded meat, salsa and curtida, a pickled slaw, and a plethora of other typical dishes including fruits and fish which are ubiquitous on the coast. The flavors are really unique to what you thought off as Mexican cuisine and it’s really a treat to get to try them all in the city center. You can order a “sample appetizer board” which will give you a taste of many dishes including the garnachas, tamales, plantains, etc.
If you like a side of art with your meal you won’t find better than Tizne. Another tranquil courtyard, this one is smack in the middle of an impressive gallery and completely hidden from the main street which might explain why it’s almost always empty…
The food is delicious and they make a remarkable chiles en nogada, a classic Mexican dish from Puebla. A green poblano chile is stuffed with a ground turkey picadillo, covered in a creamy walnut sauce, and sprinkled with pomegranate seeds – beautiful!
Peruse the wonderful art collection when you’re done which, besides some pottery at the back, consists mostly of the incredible work of Jacobo y Maria Angeles. You’ve probably seen these very colorful wooden carved creatures all over town by now, but trust me when I say these are the most exquisite (and expensive!) alebrijes you’ll find. It’s well worth visiting their workshop in San Martín Tilcajete – a 30 minute drive outside of Oaxaca – to see the craftmanship up close.
A piece the size of this monkey takes months of work from wood carving to the painstaking process of painting the minuscule symbols and patterns all over… no wonder it retails for thousands of dollars!
Around the corner behind yet another nondescript façade you’ll find Levadura de Olla – a gem of a restaurant and a favorite of locals celebrating ancestral cuisine of the region.
Start with a refreshing drink of agua de maiz…
…and feast on vegetable-forward dishes perfected through generations of the chef’s family. My Tamale of requeson cheese and squash blossom with negro and coloradito mole was spectacular.
Don’t forget to peek at the designated ‘heirloom tomato room’ on your way out if you weren’t convinced of the attention brought to ingredients while savoring your meal.
On most visitors’ lists and often suggested as the “if you only have one meal in Oaxaca” destination, Los Danzantes is fabulous both for lunch to take in the fancy tropical patio or at night under the warm glow of the twinkle lights and stars.
The menu leans more fusion than traditional with lots of fun and exquisitely prepared dishes you’re unlikely to encounter elsewhere in the city.
One thing you’ll see on menus everywhere in Oaxaca are insects – mostly grasshoppers, ants and worms which are a huge part of food culture and a must try when visiting. I ate some on a daily basis, sometimes atop a serving of guacamole or stuffed in an omelet, but it’s Los Danzantes’ Oaxaca Snack of Bugs that took first prize. Wow. So much umami, flavor and crunchiness sitting on top of guacamole and a bit of cheese, an appetizer I’ll never forget and I beg you to give it a try. You can see in the photo below a few of them like the pinkish maguey worms, the big fat ants, a few cocopaches (local cockroaches) and the ubiquitous grasshoppers – all incredibly tasty!
We shared an entrée of shrimp tlayuda stuffed with string cheese. Tlayudas are large flat crispy tortillas topped like a pizza (and sometimes folded for easier consumption) found all over Oaxaca especially at night as it’s a great filling hangover cure.
Baltazar is another solid choice on a sunny day and a lot more chilled being slightly out of the center. You’ll find the small courtyard inside Casa Convite – the tour and tasting headquarters of Mezcal brand CONVITE.
On top of great mezcal cocktails you ‘ll find a small menu of specialties that pair wonderfully well with the booze.
And of course some particularly big and crunchy grasshoppers on a blue corn tostada.
For a quick bite when you’re in a rush and don’t feel like eating off the streets, there are also a few good ‘fast-casual’ options around the center. One of my favorite is Ramón Camarón – partly because of the name but also because there are very few places to get seafood tacos here and these were legit.
If you’re here for an extended period of time as I was, you’re bound to over indulge and feel the need for a detox day to clean your system. Thankfully – and that’s why I love Mexican cuisine so much – there’s plenty of healthy options to reset your stomach and none better for this purpose than the humble caldo the pollo. The chicken with rice and vegetable soup is the stuff you dreamt your mom made you every time you got sick and got instead an instant version from a can. This is the real deal and you probably shouldn’t wait for detox day to get your dose – any day is a good caldo de pollo day.
A lot of healthy options abound also east of the centro. Tucked away Yegolé Café has healthy breakfast and lunch options with vegan baked goods and a super clean vibe that feels super refreshing.
Etnofood is a vegetarian/vegan restaurant with a social mission. On top of savoring their plant-based versions of Oaxacan classics, you can also join a cooking class or tasting in their trendy space.
It’s easy to spot the yellow façade of El Tendajon.
You’ll find modern takes on traditional Oaxacan dishes and lots of fresh veggies and fruits (their brunch menu has stacks of pancakes piled high with tropical fruits) with a very decent cocktail menu – so basically anytime of day is a good time to stop here.
For a sophisticated break from Mexican cuisine, you can hardly do better in this neighborhood than pay a visit to the lovely courtyard of Libant for a light Middle Eastern meal.
Arabic empanadas and tabbouleh salad were bursting with flavors and light enough to allow me to indulge in baklavas for dessert…
Of course, let’s not forget street food which is everywhere in Oaxaca and ready to fill your belly with cheap and absolutely delicious meals any time of day. Most places run on either a breakfast/lunch schedule or an evening/dinner one. Make sure to make at least one stop at the institution that is Tacos De Comal Plaza Del Carmen, a stone’s throw from Santo Domingo. Pull up a plastic stool and order from the short menu of tacos and empanadas with your choice of fillings from chorizo, squash flowers, chicken, etc. Just tell them to go light on the salsa… it packs some serious heat!
What makes Oaxaca so beloved besides the food is the incredible culture and abundance of art everywhere you look. Literally every street in the Centro is jam packed with things to see so you have an easy and thoroughly enjoyable way to kill time between your numerous meals.
When I was visiting, there was this great outdoor exhibition commemorating the 30th anniversary of beloved Mexican artist, Rufino Tamayo’s death. Thirty artists were commissioned to interpret large sculptural watermelon slices in an homage to the artist.
Another art-filled spectacle you’re likely to encounter in Oaxaca especially over the weekends are wedding processions. There often are multiple weddings per day taking place at Santo Domingo with the festive party taking to the streets for hours afterwards. After the music, the first thing you’ll notice are the two three-meter-tall marionettes dancing with huge globes turning behind with the names of the couple written on them. Next come a group of women traditionally dressed and dancing with baskets of flowers on their heads followed by the entire wedding party. I must have seen dozens both during the day and at night and they’re always such a pleasure to watch.
Shops and galleries are everywhere and picking up souvenirs is an absolute joy as there are so many forms of arts and crafts throughout the region. Seek out the small independent boutiques for the greatest finds instead of the large craft centers catering to groups of tourists in search of cheap replicas. KUN Café was a favorite – part curated shop with some of the best fusion of traditional crafts with modern design and part coffee shop, you can sip a killer cortado while browsing handmade pottery and vintage jewelry.
No need to walk into any of the gorgeous buildings though to be immersed into Oaxaca’s artful spirit – the street art will do that just fine.
More than a feast for the eyes, street art in Oaxaca tells the stories of Mexico, its residents and their struggles. Often political, almost always colorful, it’s everything but passive and will move you and teach you about Oaxacan culture and history as you crisscross major avenues and hidden back alleys.
Even without art adorning their walls, the brightly painted buildings are a sight to behold all by themselves. In the historical center, there are strict rules concerning the colors of the buildings to maintain this exquisite rainbow and one cannot paint with any other color than the one appointed by the city council…
When you need to cool off, a locally made ice cream is all that you need and you’ll easily find them across the city. Called “nieves“, they’re not as creamy as what you’re used to but nevertheless delicious with a variety of flavors you haven’t seen before.
Don’t stop at plain ice cream though – Mexican are genius with mixed concoctions involving ice cream, syrup, spices, etc. One you absolutely must try is a chamoyada (pictured below right) – a sort of sweet and spicy ‘slushy’ often made with mango sorbet topped with chili powder, chunks of mango and drizzled with a chamoy sauce that is spicy, sweet, and sour. The spice will burn your tongue and the frozen mango will cool it down – insane sensation and totally addictive!
Mezcalite POP! makes a fancy (and incredible) version with gummy candies as topping and a tamarind-covered straw to sip and chew as you savor this fiery treat. They also have mezcal paletas (popsicles) for eating on the go.
Murals are usually painted, spray painted or made from screen printing except for these singular brown-looking ones which are made of….? Mole!! Yep, once again marrying art and food to great effect, the streets of Oaxaca hide a few “mural de mole” from the collective Enmolarte which promotes gastronomic arts. How cool is that?!
Besides getting a refreshing (or spicy!) ice cream, afternoon cravings for sweets can be filled by one of the numerous cake shops around the center. For a real indulgence, stop by the charming Acascia.
The quiet and intimate dessert shop sells cakes by the slice and you’ll struggle to pick just one. Hint – the dark chocolate and hazelnut one is to die for…
Once the hot afternoon sun starts dipping behind the mountains is by far the best time of day to take in the historical centro. Streets are starting to get busy, people gather on steps or at cafes to catch up, and the colors of the buildings are popping brightly against the clear blue sky.
Pre-dinner drinks can take many shapes and forms here and to further our culinary education, we must get a taste of pulque at Pulquería Mayahuel.
Pulque is one of the oldest drinks in the world, a pre-Hispanic fermented beverage that predates mezcal. It comes from the heart of the agave plant, aka aguamiel, which is later fermented overnight with fruit pulp. Easy to digest (and good for your gut!), lower in alcohol than mezcal and super cheap, it’s a great libation to refresh before moving on to more serious evening endeavors.
I’d often walk the same few blocks around sunset near the aqueduct where you get an incredible contrast of the mountains in the background and the vividly painted storefront along Calle de Manuel García Vigil.
For one of the best vantage point to people watch while sipping a yummy cocktail, climb the stairs of Sur a Norte Restaurante to access their small rooftop terrace and bar.
You get an incredible view of the busy pedestrian Plaza Santo Domingo.
You could spend a month here just trying out the various rooftop terraces though some are definitely more worth it than others when it comes to location. Tierra del Sol which I loved for brunch is also an excellent drink or dinner choice.
Hotel Los Amantes has one of the hottest rooftops in town so make sure you arrive way before sunset to soak in the killer views and enjoy a front row seat to the spectacular panorama.
Lacking the views but winning hands down in the mezcal tasting department, a visit to Mezcaloteca is my #1 recommendation for you if you have any interest (and you should!) in discovering the magical world of mezcal. You need a reservation to score a seat at this exclusive bar which will get you a personal introduction to how mezcal is made and a crash course in how to taste it and spot quality bottles.
They only work with small-batch, artisanal producers to create truly unique and top-shelf mezcal you can’t find anywhere else and will select a few for you to try based on an extensive questionnaire to gauge your taste profile. It’s an incredible learning opportunity and the mezcals I tasted really blew my mind – so much so that I bought two to bring back home. Just make sure you have dinner plan nearby as after five 2oz shots of 48%-75% proof you can expect your faculties to be somewhat affected…you’ve been warned!
On nights where you want something milder and/or more casual, know that there’s also a great brewery in Oaxaca that makes awesome IPAs – Oaxaca Brewing Company.
While they only had two of their own beers on draught when I visited, they were on par with the best I’ve had in the US and the bar was just a lovely hangout place with super friendly vibes – highly recommend.
Evenings are perfect for visiting the many galleries around the center which tend to stay open quite late.
Many are inside stately homes and make genius use of courtyards and the many outdoor spaces.
Everyone will find something to their taste as nearly every artistic genre is covered in this capital of arts and culture.
The many pottery studios are especially tempting if you can make room in your luggage for some incredible organic pieces for your home.
If you like a side of art with your mezcal cocktail, hit up Casa Embajador de Oaxaca, Mezcalería y Galería de Arte. The chic and cozy bar has stunning paintings on the walls, a very impressive ceiling, and most importantly expertly crafted cocktails.
Dinner
Usually only open during the weekends, Tres Hermanas was a favorite place to hang out and eat dinner. As the name suggests, the tiny and lively bar is run by three sisters (and a brother who’ll be making your mezcal cocktails) and revolves around a simple comal (a round, flat griddle made from clay) from which they produce simple but insanely delicious bites such as quesadillas, memelas, etc. using only a few simple and very fresh ingredients. They are so lovely you’ll never want to leave…
For Istmeño cuisine, head to Terraza Istmo and its lovely terrace for a drink and a filling meal of Pollo Garnachero (chicken with garlic mojo, fried with potatoes and onions, served with pickled cabbage and tomato sauce).
Homey Las Quince Letras is famous for moles and the great thing is – you don’t even have to choose as they have combination dishes where you can sample a few of them all at once – marvelous! My tip here is to make sure one of them is the ‘mole coloradito’…a favorite.
The small Ocote Cocina is pretty high in my favorite places to eat in Oaxaca. It feels like your local neighborhood bistro with a casual ambiance, the kind of place where you can see yourself eating at easily during the weekdays, and the cuisine is refined without breaking the bank. What’s not to love? They also carry local artisanal beers which is always a plus in my books.
Vegans and vegetarians will love the lush courtyard of La Jícara Librespacio Cultural, a cultural center also host to a bookstore and cafe serving delicious and cheap healthy meals.
For a truly unique dinner, Crudo won’t disappoint. The reservation-only restaurant is the first oaxaqueño omakase in the city and delivers a stunning Japanese-influenced tasting experience for six lucky diners at a time (yep, it’s that tiny!).
No stuffiness here, the vibe is ultra relaxed as you cozy up to the counter and pick a hand-carved wooden stool before selecting your sip of choice among a delicious array of sake and mezcal.
The eight course omakase lasts for about two hours and expertly marries Japanese techniques with ancestral Oaxacan recipes and ingredients. Raw and cooked fish gets paired with spicy grasshoppers, fermented fruits and local chilies. It’s a revelation to taste such high-quality ingredients in their simplest state without the usual slow simmering and smoking the regional cuisine calls for. An absolute must for a special treat when in Oaxaca.
I’m ending this tour of the city center with a classic – Casa Oaxaca. If you ask anyone recommendations for where to eat when visiting Oaxaca, 95% chance they will mention this undisputed institution right by Santo Domingo.
The rooftop terrace is the place to be in the evenings especially with one of their famous Mezcalinis. This is the sort of place where they mix your salsa tableside and bring you snacks to soak up the alcohol while you wait for your dinner – I could get used to that.
You can get your fill of moles here too but why not try something entirely different seeing as there are so many culinary regions around? I went for an ‘Agua chili stuffed with ceviche and passion fruit’ followed by a grilled octopus dish – both were divine.
Leave room for dessert and more mezcal at Expendio Tradicion, a trendy restaurant-mezcaleria with the perfect ambiance to close the night.
Lots of food and it’s not over! I’ll be covering the other parts of Oaxaca (i.e., slightly outside the center) in future blog posts as I’ve consumed way too much food in a month to fit in a single entry. More to come…
