There’s nothing like the first few days of spring above 20°C (that’s in the 70s for you Americans!) to send us all toward the coast to feel that ocean breeze, get those first grains of sand between our toes, and gorge on succulent seafood fresh from the boat. Luckily for us based on the East Coast, choices abound and I set my first getaway this Spring on the picturesque coastal town of Mystic in Connecticut.
Small in size but big in attractions, Mystic is hugely popular during the warmer months so spring is an ideal time to visit before the summer hordes disembark. Located on the banks of the Mystic River, your first impression is of a quaint and manicured seafaring village with white Colonial period buildings gracing the shore – a picture straight from the 1830s.
Downtown Mystic is bisected by an imposing and rather cool looking bascule bridge – if you’re lucky you might witness its huge cement counterweights lift the drawbridge to let a boat through.
The town center is easy to walk around and full of small stores and restaurants neatly packed over a few blocks.
At the edge of it stands the source of a sizeable portion of the town’s fame in the iconic ‘Mystic Pizza‘. The location of Julia Robert’s 1980s movie hit of the same name has been drawing fans and curious folks (like myself) to the town ever since.
Yes, you can dine here and soak up the movie nostalgia while watching it on repeat on a TV screen up the wall, photos from the set and actors covering literally every inch of the place.
Daisy was pretty cool but Jojo always had my vote…
Only one thing left to do now: sample the namesake pizza. It’s pretty decent, not the best you’ll ever have but it’ll fill you up nicely for an afternoon of exploration.
Most things to see and do in Mystic are out in the open with the exception of the Mystic Museum of Art.
The smallish art gallery overlooking the river is a charming place to check out rotating art exhibitions and get introduced to lesser known American artists.
You’ll need a couple of hours or even a full day to tackle Mystic’s star attraction – the Mystic Seaport Museum.
This outdoor living history museum is a replica of a shipbuilding town from the 1830s-era, essentially what Mystic must have looked like in those days!
As the largest maritime museum in the United States, there’s a ton to see and do and lots of history to brush up on. You’ll discover that Mystic was busy building boats from the 1600s up to 1930s and the museum is dedicated to preserving that history with original boats, photos and artifacts from throughout that period.
Most of the buildings are open to visitors and set up to educate on the seafaring activities and work places of the era.
The chance to climb aboard and visit some of the original wooden vessels is a real treat and fun for all ages. One boat in particular reigns supreme here and it’s the Charles W. Morgan – the last surviving wooden whaling ship (the only one still in existence today).
If you’ve read Moby Dick, you’ll get a pretty good image of the ship’s cramped quarters (below was for the high ranking second in command) and living conditions to fulfill a captain’s obsession with the gigantic creature.
Strolling around the village while popping into the general store and pharmacy gives a glimpse into life as it was two hundred years ago. This would be a typical day trip from school and honestly is equally enjoyable as an adult with a much different perspective on life and living conditions from this bygone era.
A striking exhibition building (very much modern) holds shows and information about the museum.
Artefacts such as figureheads and ship carvings tell a fascinating story of culture across continents.
It was a lot to pack in for the first day so a really nice dinner is deserved. Mystic is not short on delectable meals and one of them can be had at the restaurant of The Whaler’s Inn, a boutique hotel spread between 5 historical buildings steps from the river.
Called The Shipwright’s Daughter, this fairly recent addition to the town’s culinary scene is the epitome of Mystic’s charm: a tasteful blend of vintage nautical with a modern twist.
Blue velvet upholstery, reclaimed oak flooring and brass accents throughout make you feel as if you’re on an old and distinguished vessel – and the stellar service contributes to that image as well.
The food is pretty outstanding and the inventive menu a breath of fresh ocean air. Local ingredients are the stars, unsurprisingly, and creative combinations will blow your mind, such as my ‘Sugar Kelp Wrapped Stonington Scallops‘ with pistachio hummus, fiddlehead ferns, ramps and ginger chive vierge…no words.
The espresso flan with kelp caramel and bittersweet chocolate was also a stunning end to the meal (not pictured here – all the oysters I ingested with my cocktail beforehand, too excited to take a photo!).
The following day, start off with a sugar high at local favorite Sift Bake Shop.
This French-inspired bakery has so many options from the flaky and buttery variety…
… to the sweet and decadent pastries and cookies.
Opened since 2016, Sift gained a huge following when its head baker and co-owner won “Best Baker in America’ on the Food Network… so you can be guaranteed that your croissants and macarons will be up to snuff.
Fueled and caffeinated, head early to Mystic Aquarium to beat the crowds and get up close with thousands of adorable (and a few scary) creatures.
While the aquarium is fairly small, there are quite a few interactive exhibits so this is a great one for the kids. The beluga whales are especially enthralling and know a thing or two about showing off their best angle.
They’re known to ‘photobomb’…
… and take a special interest in little ones.
Right next to the aquarium, you’ll find Olde Mistick Village, an outdoor shopping hub built like an old New England village.
Designed for the typical tourist, it still makes for a pleasant stroll as you gaze upon period features like a replica of a steepled New England meetinghouse…
… and a duck pond with a water wheel. You can grab a quick bite here in one of the many restaurants or visit the specialty shops.
For lunch, I’d recommend going back toward the river and stopping by Nana’s Bakery – an organic bakery and pizza shop.
You can’t go wrong with any of the carbs here. And while I normally don’t do pizza for lunch two days in a row, I made an exception for their white slice which was divine (and paired it with a roasted carrots and labneh salad to quiet my inner guilt).
Technically outside of Mystic, Harkness Memorial State Park is only 10 minutes drive away in the city of Waterford and is absolutely worth stopping by either on your way out or to while away your last afternoon in town. The park’s 200+ acres surround the stately Eolia mansion (1906) and its manicured gardens.
The Roman Renaissance Classical Revival-style mansion has 42 rooms and is opened for tours on the weekends in the summer months.
Spectacular gardens flank the mansion on both sides and offer panoramic view of Long Island Sound.
By the carriage house, in the cutting garden, you won’t be able to miss the stunning Japanese Feather Maple. The 100+ year old tree forms the most beautiful and peaceful canopy under which to reflect on and admire its gorgeous curves.
Bring a blanket and some snacks to fully relax and take in the incredible views from the Gatsbyesque estate.
Miles of windswept shorelines extend in both directions with fishermen and sunbathers posing for that quintessential costal tableau.
There’s a sandy beach at the end to complete the picture – settle here until you’re ready to head back, invigorated by the salty air and hair-tangling breeze.
For your last meal, pay a visit to the charming Oyster Club, a ‘sea-to-table’ restaurant with a raw bar, casual atmosphere and ‘treehouse’ outdoor terrace for those warm summer evenings by the water.
After getting your fill of oysters, pick from the inventive menu of small plates or go full comfort with their house burger or steak. I can never resist scallops and was frankly curious to compare with last night’s. These ‘burnt dayboat scallops‘ with almond gazpacho, sunflowers shoots & oil came very close!
The second course was kelp bucatini with kelp chili aioli and soy cured halibut – a umami-rich pasta dish that had me almost licking the plate.
Turns out, there’s a lot more to Mystic than pizza! A few days here and the town’s popularity is now clear as day with so much to do for everyone and a thriving culinary scene – a winning family weekend getaway.
