Embracing the delicious, low-key Mexican life in La Paz

2020 isn’t over yet, but so far I’d have to say that on the travel front, my discovery of the year is without a doubt the refreshingly genuine town of La Paz in Baja California. There’s so much to like here that 10 days was barely enough to scratch the surface and I swear I’ll be going back someday for a much longer period. What a gem.

For being the capital of Baja California, La Paz is surprisingly mellow. This seaside beauty is buzzing, yes, but not with the usual fast-paced development geared at tourists that has turned other beach destinations (I’m looking at you Cabo) into nonstop raging club parties. From the moment you arrive here you understand something else is at play, a deep respect for nature, the land, what grows on it, and the people and creatures that call it home. It’s hard to explain how this beach side town with a population of nearly 250,000 can achieve that but it does…and this harmonious feeling will surround you the moment you step foot on its gorgeous shore.

Everything seems to start and end at the seafront, with the azure waters of the Sea of Cortez stretching in front of you. This body of water that Jacques Cousteau dubbed ‘the largest aquarium in the world’ is truly the heart of La Paz, and admiring its frolicking wildlife is an experience you’ll never forget. From swimming with whale sharks to snorkeling with playful sea lions, it’s no surprise the majority of the tourism industry revolves around the water. With the country’s best marine biology program, La Paz is teaming with young students fascinated with this place and how to protect it.

La Paz is a super safe city and time spent wandering its mellow streets unveils quiet neighborhoods with life unfolding behind closed facades.

In the city center, the 19th-century Nuestra Señora de La Paz Cathedral anchors a large park with bustling streets branching out in every direction.

From here, you could spend many days enjoying one of life’s greatest pleasures: eating. La Paz is blessed with sunny weather year-round and access to pristine waters teeming with seafood so you can imagine the bounty. Slowly savoring simple cuisine is a way of life here and I would gladly make it my number one activity! Far from being an exhaustive list, I’m highlighting in this post some highlights and recommendations by time of day of places I greatly enjoyed.

Doce Cuarenta Cafe, near the Cathedral, was my favorite morning stop for a great cup of coffee and freshly baked pastries. With a shaded courtyard perfect for working out on your laptop (this is a student town after all) and ample seating, it’s an ideal spot for whiling away a few hours, taking in the local scene.

Weekend brunches are insanely popular at Dulce Romero, a modern bakery that serves all-organic breakfasts, sandwiches and salads for lunch, and pizza and burgers for dinner.

You can get your avocado toast fix here and replenish with a healthy smoothie.

Another cute cafe for getting work done or just relaxing in a quieter environment is Big Sur Café Orgánico. The colorful mural upfront will draw you in and the California-inspired decor will make you want to stay for a while.

Look around any streets in the center all the way to the water’s edge and you’ll spot beautiful murals. There are walking tours organized or you can just wander on your own and try to find as many as you can! As in many other places, the local government has for many years employed local artists to decorate the city’s streets and the results are marvelous.

You’ll find that every mural reflects La Paz’s commitment and love of nature, wildlife, indigenous communities and local history and culture.

There are many stories behind these colorful depictions of real-life events from the town’s origins, especially around indigenous people and their relationship with the sea.

Even restaurants are covered in pretty scenes, such as at Capuchino Café, an adorable vegetarian cafe perfect for a light lunch.

Outside the center and therefore undiscovered by tourists, you’ll find the best fish tacos in town at Taco Fish La Paz.

Locals have been coming here since 1992 and the quality of the food from the fish to the garnish bar is unparalleled.

Giant fillets are extra-battered and deep-fried, similar to the best fish and chips you would have had on the coast of England. Here, they are served on top of fresh flour tortillas which you’ll garnish to your liking (the avocado crema is off the charts). You’ll be full until way past dinner time for under $4, can’t beat that!

Seafood also reigns supreme at El Mangle which became a favorite lunch spot.

The ceviches served on top of crispy tostadas are absolutely fantastic – simple, so fresh, and packed with flavors. The tuna-avocado-mango is their signature one and an absolute must. They also have a range of smoked fish dishes, sashimi, etc. and all are superb.

For something a little heavier and equally scrumptious, another favorite among locals is Mc-Fisher.

Hot grills line one side of the stone courtyard with picnic tables filling in the rest. They have all kinds of seafood here too but the Marlin fish is king on their unique menu.

You can try all kinds of regional specialties and take a break from fish and shrimps with options like octopus tacos…

…but the special taco of the house which you absolutely must order is their “Burro Maya” – a flour tortilla topped with refried beans, a whole chile pepper stuffed with smoked marlin, and a big slice of grilled cheese. Yep! A local recommended I order it and I’m so glad I did. While it might not sound or look like any fish taco you’ve ever seen, it tastes incredible. Definitely the most unique, filling, and delicious taco I’ve had in La Paz.

A long afternoon walk is required after this and mid-afternoon is a peaceful time to walk around the more residential areas of La Paz and getting a glimpse into everyday life.

I think someone was getting ready for her quinceañera ?

Look out for the city’s numerous urban parks which were one of my favorite discoveries. I stumbled by chance upon the Parque Piedras y Pajaros (meaning ‘Stones & Birds’) nestled between two buildings and immediately fell for these peaceful city oasis.

These pocket parks have been designed to bring the community together and give them a space to meet, talk, relax or attend a concert.

There is art to admire, fountains to create a soothing soundtrack and trees to provide shade.

A short walk away, the Postal Park is equally enchanting with sea creatures adorning the walls and structures.

If you need an afternoon snack, something to tide you over until dinner, or if like me you just want to eat little bites here and there because it’s just so fun and delicious… well may I suggest a stop at Chocolatas El Empanada? A bit off the center, there’s not much else around but you’ll quickly notice the extra activity at this casual corner eatery. This place is so popular at any time of day that waiting for a table is custom.

As the name suggests, the specialty here are the famous ‘chocolate clams‘ of La Paz. No, they don’t taste of cocoa but their shell color is close enough. The local delicacy is best enjoyed slowly with a cold beer on the side. Squeeze some lime juice over the meat and watch it squirm under the acid before adding a tiny bit of salsa picante if you like and slurping it all down in one bite. They’re spectacular on their own too, dense and so fresh.

Then walk the two blocks over to the sea and join the legions of Paceños – La Paz locals – wandering along the Malecón, La Paz’s wonderful boardwalk. Stretching for three miles, the seafront promenade is lined with bars, restaurants and aquatic-themed statues.

The most famous is this gorgeous, giant mirrored pearl sculpture – a nod to La Paz’s history as a major pearl producer.

It is THE place to really get the city vibe, with everyone gathering to soak in the midday sun, kids playing, eating ice cream, collecting seashells on the beach.

Everyone sticks around for the amazing sunset views which quickly became a daily ritual for me. How could I miss that spectacle every day? It’s literally right there and a reminder of La Paz’s enviable situation. Having that chilled island vibe yet close proximity to everything else you’d need and all that natural beauty…

The Pavilion glimmers at night – perfect backdrop for watching the last moments of the sun bleeding into the Sea of Cortez.

Take advantage of these last few rays to snag an outdoor table at one of the numerous bars and restaurants all along the boardwalk. Harker Board is a fun bar with a third floor terrace affording sweeping views of the coast.

It’s a beer and pizza kind of place and they also make frozen cocktails – I like me a sunset margarita!

Come dinnertime, you really have the choice between sticking to the local, casual restaurants which are always winners, or perhaps trying some of the more upscale places to change things up a bit. I really liked the ambiance at Nim, an international restaurant set in a beautiful historic mansion.

You’ll see tons of expats here and the menu spans almost the entire globe. Go there for a healthier dinner. They use a lot of fresh vegetables and their Mediterranean dishes are a great switch from the usual Mexican fare.

For something a little more high end, Sorstis looks like your classic Italian villa with all the fountain, candles, flowers, etc. you’d expect.

The interior feels best suited for a romantic date or a family gathering – this is one of the most upscale restaurants around after all.

A local twist on Italian classics means seafood risotto for me, and it was really good. But again, I was still dreaming of my fish taco after this… One great thing about Sorstis is their wine list if you’ve grown tired of beers and cocktails, and they have great local wines from Baja which are well worth discovering.

OK, there’s another great thing here – the dessert menu which is presented table side for easier picking.

Not sure it made it any easier but I sure chose right with my dulce de leche fondant.

Fine dining is OK every once in a while, but honestly in a town like La Paz where the quality of food is so high, the more casual eateries give you so much more flavors and bang for your buck. Night is no different than lunch time and you can find all the usual staples and more. Get your meat and taco fix at Asadero Rancho Viejo, another institution beloved by locals.

Try one of their molcajetes which is essentially a mortar filled to the brim with vegetables, your choice of meat, and cheese, and served boiling hot with breads for dipping on the side. Fun to eat and super filling.

A few blocks away you’ll find Taqueria El Paisa, your no-fuss 24hr taco joint with every order grilled fresh in front of you.

There’s a huge buffet of sauces and garnish to top your tacos and here too I was introduced to the addition of cheese (I never say no to cheese!). They call it the taco vampiro and it’s a grilled corn tortilla with melted jack cheese on top before adding the meat and all the other toppings. And of course it’s delicious.

You can also just follow your nose and have an amazing and cheap meal at any of the street stalls that pop up in the evenings.

My final restaurant recommendation is a total gem and sits pretty near the top of the list: Mariscos El Toro Güero. It’s all about seafood, it’s super casual, and you get huge portions of the freshest fish and crustaceans.

I highly recommend the whole fried fish which comes with warm tortillas and the crispiest, crunchiest skin I’ve ever tasted on a whole fish before.

La Paz’s laid back personality extends into the evenings which thankfully aren’t loud and obnoxiously busy like the Cabos and other popular beach destinations. Despite being a student town, they’re far more interested in going to bed early and having a full day of outdoor activities than taking parts in late-night shenanigans.

That being said, there is one magical place in La Paz for those evenings when you need a night cap, or to meet with a few friends over some beer and mezcal – let me introduce you to La Miserable.

The two-room, tiny house is home to the quaintest mezcal bar you’ve ever seen. Vintage decor, quirky memorabilia, dim lighting… it’s so cozy you’ll end up staying for hours and making friends with all the locals. This place gets packed to the brim (I didn’t take any pics late in the night as I clearly was having too much fun) and the crowd spill over the sidewalk and into their small garden.

Their mezcal menu is many pages long so this is the place to order flights and discover the wonderful world of this potent and super tasty libation.

They also make mezcal cocktails and you can get fried crickets on the side too. It’s the kind of bar every city should have and is the embodiment of the easygoing, friendly, and incredibly delicious life in La Paz. I shall be back…