After checking off the main sights on the East Coast of Jeju, namely the tuft cone of Seongsan Ilchulbong and Udo Island, leave plenty of time to explore the Southwest with its quirky museums and the unmissable Hallasan National Park smack in the center. With your base in Seogwipo, you have easy access to all the hikes and sights and can fill your days with a mix of nature and culture at your own pace, except perhaps for the one day you’ll tackle the mountain!
Hiking Mount Hallasan
On the way to Hallasan, make a quick stop at the lovely and secluded Wonang Fall. Much less visited than the waterfalls in Seogwipo, you’ll likely have a quiet moment here and it’s only a 10-min walk down to the falls.
If you’re up for the challenge, hiking Mount Hallasan – South Korea’s highest peak at 1950m (6,400 feet) – is an absolute must! While it’s a strenuous hike, it is not technical at all and with enough time most people can certainly climb it. There are two trails to the summit and a clear favorite is going up via the Seongpanak Trail (9.6km) which has the most gradual ascent and public transport access, and going down via the Gwaneumsa Trail (8.7km) which is more scenic but steeper.
There are clear signs everywhere and even posts to tell slow movers or late comers when they should turn around if they’ve reached certain markers after a specific time… brilliant. Get ready for an amazing day and workout! A few important notes: Due to the extreme popularity of this hike, you need to reserve your spot in advance and get there super early (trail opens at 6am). Even arriving at 8am I found the large parking lot already full and had to park far away and take a shuttle. Once you’re on the trail though, it’s all bliss and quads as you walk first through a beautiful forest, especially stunning in the fall.
This has to be one of the most well-maintained trails I’ve been on, understandably with the amount of people hiking it every day. Besides the initial forested section, the rest of the climb is a giant staircase of solid wood which will make you feel your glutes for the next few days at least…
As you get nearer to the top you get rewarding views over the south side of the island with Seogwipo spread out in the distance.
Reaching the summit after a few hours of stair climbing feels like a momentous achievement – you’re standing on the highest point in all of South Korea! It also came with another first for me: a line up to take a selfie with the summit marker! Yup, not wanting to stand behind the 100 or so Koreans queuing for their photo op, I skipped the celebratory picture in favor of finding a little spot to quickly ingest my lunch and take in the views before going back down.
Besides the nearly 360 views you get of the island, you can’t miss the giant crater at the top of this dormant volcano. Spanning 3km in circumference, it usually contains a lake but was evidently dry when I was there in October.
After a quick rest, it’s time to head back down, this time on the Gwaneumsa Trail. The views are absolutely fantastic for the initial portion as you descend with the capital Jeju-si right in front of you.
The trail is much more varied on this side, crossing small gorges over bridges, dipping in and out of tree covers.
It eventually follows a riverbed for a little while, letting you know you’re back to lower elevation. We even spotted a couple of roe deer feeding by the side of the trail. Eventually, after a long descent, you’ll emerge at the parking area of the Gwaneumsa trail and can hop on a bus to your car or call a taxi from there. You deserve a giant dinner and an early night sleep!
Artsy West Jeju
The next day is the perfect day to get in the car and explore a few cultural and more chilled attractions as you nurse your sore muscles from yesterday’s hike. Replenish your energy levels with a typical Korean breakfast of beef gimbap and coffee in Seogwipo (highly recommend going to 카페랑스, 192 Donghong-ro) and hit the road.
The Bonte Museum will appear familiar to those who have ventured to Seopjikoji in the East – the building was designed by Tadao Ando, the same Japanese architect behind the Glass House and Yumin Art Nouveau Collection. The exquisite design, the concrete, the water features… there’s as much enjoyment navigating the building and its five exhibition halls than in admiring the artworks on display.
The smallish and curated spaces showcase world-renowned pieces by the likes of Dali, Andy Warhol and Botero…
…alongside traditional Korean crafts which are instantly elevated by being so harmoniously presented. I was charmed by the textiles and the mother of pearl accent furniture.
The outside is a sculpture park revealing large scale works up and around each corner of the building.
Popping out like a giant ray of sunshine, the unmistakable polka dots and pumpkins of celebrated Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama lead you to her permanent exhibition at the museum.
Enter a mini universe of pop art and get your time (without the usual long lines!) in her famous infinity mirror room for a truly magical morning.
Don’t miss climbing the stairs to the rooftop for a few more sculptures and a gorgeous view over the southwest and its outlying islands.
Back in the car, continue with the art theme heading west with a stop at the Jeju Museum of Contemporary Art.
Permanent exhibitions by Kim Heung-soo (the “Picasso of Korea”) and special exhibits of local artists’ works from the 20th and 21st century are centered around themes of the environment, nature, and Jeju.
Here too they make the most of immersing art with nature with sculptures dotted across the outdoor area.
Break the day with a leisurely lunch at one of the many small family-owned restaurants. I had one of the greatest meals of the week at Chef Kang’s Kitchen (558 Daehan-ro) where just the banchan served before my main course arrived topped every one I had anywhere else in South Korea.
Next came the octopus bibimbap and homemade tangerine ice cream, both just wow.
Tea immersion
The nearby Ossuloc Tea Museum makes for an ideal post-lunch stop. Korea’s largest tea company invites tea enthusiasts to learn about the process in the middle of their verdant fields and indulge in tea products of all kinds.
Get a high level view of the farm from the sleek observatory on the upper floors of the building before going back down to stroll among its green tea fields.
You’ll want to stock up in the shop inside for all things tea-based, from uniquely flavored green teas mixed on site to tea-infused body products and chocolates. There’s also a very popular cafe where you can taste bright green beverages and desserts (all tea-based of course).
Volcanic coastal walk
End the day with an invigorating ocean walk along the Yongmeori coast.
What a spectacular coastal trail to follow with soaring cliffs and natural rock formations to your left and scenic ocean views to your right.
You’re walking on the oldest volcanic formation in Jeju and there’s lots to uncover if you slow down. Take a look into the narrow clefts, under natural archways, and into the mini pools forming in the eroded floor.
The 1-mile loop is quickly over but there’s an easy extension you can add when you get back on the mainland.
Looking at the craggy Sanbangsan mountain, you can easily spot a large golden Buddha to the right which is easier to get to than it might appear.
A 15-minute steep walk will bring you to Sanbanggulsa temple and gorgeous views of the coast.
Much bigger up close, the golden statue of the Buddha and the surrounding shrines bring a peaceful ending to a day packed with the uniquely beautiful and artsy west side of Jeju.
Alas, this is where my trip concluded, though not before fitting in one last delicious cake and snapping this “only in Korea” sign at the airport… 🙂
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