Jeju island’s east coast has many highlights, and one of them is the small island of Udo. Although it is the largest of the 62 islets surrounding Jeju, it can be walked in just a couple of hours and visitors get treated to scenic views, unique attractions, a serene isolation that is hard to come by…and lots of peanuts! When I discovered I could combine my love of walking with a local culinary specialty, I was sold on going to Udo and I’m so glad I did.
Getting to Udo couldn’t be easier – just get on one of the ferries that leave right by Seongsan Ilchulbong (volcano) every 30 minutes for the 15-minute ride. As you approach the island, see if you can make up how it got its nickname of “Cow Island” due to its hill resembling a cow lying down…
While you can take your car on the ferry, it’s really not necessary and most people come on foot. My plan was to walk the official Olleh Trail 1-1, part of Jeju’s extensive 430km network of trails meant to open up Jeju’s unique culture and scenery to visitors in a slow, meandering way. The trail on Udo circumnavigates the entire island over 11km with a few inland excursions, leaving plenty of time to admire the beautiful scenery and enjoy some of the island’s culinary specialties. No need for a map, simply turn right when getting off the ferry and you’ll see signs pointing you to the trail which hugs the coastline most of the way.
You’ll pass by many tributes to the famous haenyeo, the female free-divers of Jeju, as Udo is (and was) home to quite a few of them. Real legends for an island with a population of just over 1,500 residents.
You’ll soon arrive at one of Udo’s (and Jeju’s) most famous sites: Seobin Baeksa. The stunning beach has appeared in numerous Korean movies and TV commercials with its blinding white sand and turquoise sea. You might have it all to yourself as did I, and able to enjoy a meditative walk observing the many variations of blue of the sea, the sound of waves gently lapping the shore…Udo is already showing off and you’ve only been walking for less than 30 minutes!
Not everyone opt to walk though as I could tell by how quiet the trail was. It appears that renting a “scooter-car” or electric tuk-tuk is the preferred way to explore the island.
Continue walking along the shore, passing by quaint little vacation resorts facing the beach.
When hungry, grab a delicious homemade “black burger” at Bongkkeulang Black Pork made with a black garlic bun and pork patty – great fuel for the road ahead.
A bit further, the only main intersection on the island seems almost comical. Perhaps the roundabout is to direct the flow of tuk-tuk during summer rush hours?
Soon you’ll see the path divert slightly inland and start going up to Udobong Peak, the highest point on Udo.
Visit the lighthouse at the top for panoramic views of the island and the surrounding sea.
The peak is surrounded by a spacious park and the trail now slowly goes down and enters a small forest.
Emerge out of the trees in bright sunlight and find yourself in front of one of Udo’s top scenic views: Black Sand Beach. Its shape, color and unique cliff formation were all created from volcanic activity and look stunning against the blue sky.
Extend your viewing pleasure by getting your first taste of the island’s famous peanuts at Jimmy’s Natural Ice Cream. The original peanut soft serve is delicious, especially when eaten overlooking the beach.
As you make your way north, your entire field of vision is filled with shades of blue from the tranquil sea which never seems to end. Tiny secluded beaches invite you to dip your toes in, the shallow waters so clear you can see the bottom almost all the way up to the horizon. Sculptures of seafarers and haenyeo add visual interest to the coast, not that it needs it!
Hagosudong beach has the perfect tranquil setting for a picnic or just to sit on a dune and look out at the open water.
But there’s an even better sitting situation just at the end of it in Blanc Rocher cafe.
It seems the secret is out as it was the busiest spot I’d seen on the island all day, and it’s easy to understand why. With minimalist vibes and the room fully open to the outside, it’s a piece of breezy Mediterranean chic on Udo you’ll want to stay in for a while.
The scenery isn’t the only reason to visit though, as the cafe also serves indulgent treats all made with the island’s renowned peanuts: my peanut latte and peanut Basque cheesecake were superb…
At this point the trail heads inland to cross the island, going from the east coast to the west coast in less than 20 minutes. This stretch offers no sea views but an interesting insider look into the rural interior and locals’ way of living.
Houses and businesses have large tarps of peanuts drying in the sun – Udo’s precious gold.
Eventually you’ll find yourself back at the ferry after about 5-6 hours walking nearly the entire circumference of the island and feeling just wonderful about it!
The quick ride back to Jeju lets you see one last time the dazzling beaches and “cow hill” you just scaled up.
In front, the familiar and welcoming sight of Seongsan Ilchulbong now bathing in the late afternoon sun.
There’s still time to enjoy one more ice cream for the day (!) – after all you did walk quite a bit. Stop by the cheerful Cali Soft Serve at the foot of the volcano for a refreshing hallabong (local tangerine) cone.
Dinner at Dr. SUYUK got me to try the specialty suyuk, a simple dish of boiled pork slices. Tender, flavorful and the perfect end to the day’s outdoor pursuits. Tomorrow, I’ll be heading west!
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