Most visitors passing through Seoul for a few days won’t venture outside of the historical center. There’s already so much to see and do there between the giant palaces, markets spanning multiple city blocks, eclectic museums and all the restaurants, so why bother? I get it, but if you have just one extra day, follow my lead and leave the traditional sights behind to experience modern-day Seoul and mingle with the locals, I promise you won’t regret it.
Seoul isn’t that different from other big cities around the world when looking for a non-touristy city outing, one that will inspire and reveal little facets of the locals – go where nature and creativity collide. It’s in metropolis jammed with high-rises that you find the loveliest of green spaces from where to observe the subtle nuances of everyday life and Seoul is no exception. While Namsan Park is great for a hike with a view, head west for a day towards the student district of Hongdae to experience the delight that is the Gyeongui Line Forest Park.
This 6.3 km (4 miles) park was created when the Gyeongui railway line went partially underground. The defunct train tracks were covered and a beautiful park was established all around them as part of an urban regeneration project.
It takes about two and a half hours to walk the length of the park but you’ll want to make many stops so plan for half a day. It’s a unique and popular green space for locals to take walks and for tourists to mix with locals and experience a bit of Seoul’s history and urban culture.
You’ll pass through trendy neighborhoods and will never be far from a hip cafe to slow down your pace without leaving the park. Look for the red brick walls of Biroso Coffee right by the park’s edge for an amazing cup and a sweet pastry. Bonus is the view from their second floor window counter where you won’t be missing any of the action.
There are clear sections along the walk, some with open lawns for rest and relaxation, others with sculptures or interactive features reflecting the artsy area you’re passing through.
Recreated rails, old stations and even old train cars let people reminisce about the old days. The line was originally built by the Japanese between 1904 and 1906 to secure control over the Korean peninsula and launch an invasion of China. It continued to operate after the division of South and North Korea in 1945 but was later abandoned in the early 1950s after the Korean war.
Train-carriage-like bookshops await in the area known as Gyeongui Line Book Street.
Original sculptures make you pause and invite contemplation.
The park’s Yeonnam-dong section (next to Hongik University Station Exit 3) is nicknamed Yeontral Park because of its atmosphere resembling that of New York’s Central Park. Gingko trees line the old railway line for a kilometer (beautiful in the fall) and the many grassy fields and ponds are perfect for an impromptu rest.
Student-filled Hongdae
With many restaurants and shops around, it’s the perfect place to leave the park for a bite to eat. If you have yet to eat Korean BBQ, Hongojib is a place famous for trying BBQ solo, an experience usually reserved for big groups. Solo dining is becoming increasingly popular in Korea and Hongojib’s setup is brilliant. You sit at an individual “cubicle” and order everything from a tablet in front of you.
Your chosen cuts of meat arrive and an attendant light the grill for you while giving you a few basic instructions – a novel experience to say the least and quite enjoyable!
You’re now in Hongdae, the university neighborhood so of course it’s buzzing and there’s plenty of entertainment to be had. It’s especially known for its shopping and unsurprisingly its bar scene so you might want to linger the rest of the day here.
Elevated city park in Seoul’s center – Seoullo 7017
If you still have some spring in your step though and didn’t get enough with your lovely morning walk out west, why not explore the other very cool green space closer to downtown? Seoullo 7017 can be found smack in the city center in the form of an overpass-turned-park. See the theme here? It can be entered from various points with the most obvious one at Seoul Station.
Based on the High Line in New York, the overpass was turned into a sort of elevated botanical garden in 2017 when it was deemed unfit for automobiles. Over 24,000 labelled plants, flowers and trees are grown here which brings a special interest as you walk above some of the city’s busiest intersections.
The overpass cleverly branches off over rooftops with a handful of cafes, galleries and open spaces where there are sometimes concerts and art exhibitions.
You can end this wonderful day just as you started it, in “urban nature” with a drink surrounded by greenery and a unique view of Seoul and its residents – totally worth skipping a palace or two!
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