Asia South Korea Travels

A day in Dongdaemun, Seoul

February 23, 2025

Once you’ve seen the palaces and wandered around the historic streets of Bukchon, it’s great to shake off the traditional side of the city by venturing east for a different perspective. Nothing could offer a greater contrast to the previous days than laying your eyes on the neo-futuristic Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park.

Dongdaemun Design Plaza

Visually stunning from every angle, the curvaceous spaceship-looking complex was designed by the late Zaha Hadid and is straight out of your sci-fi fantasies. This is the one building in Seoul you must absolutely visit and it’s pretty easy to get to. Wander around its different levels to find galleries, event spaces, shops, museums and lawns that afford sleek views of this aluminum and concrete architectural gem.

Dongdaemun Design Plaza
Dongdaemun Design Plaza

The park is more a continuation of the design than a city park where one could relax and sit down. There are interesting ruins that were found during the excavation of the site including archeological remains from the Joseon Dynasty (which explains the lack of benches and picnic areas!).

Dongdaemun Design Plaza

Walk a few minutes north from the plaza to see Heunginjimum, the restored Great East Gate which was part of Seoul’s City Wall during the Joseon Dynasty.

A walk along Seoul’s old City Wall

Keep walking to reach Heunginjimun Park and the entrance to the City Wall hike up to Naksan Park.

It’s a fairly easy climb up along a section of Seoul’s ancient defensive wall from the 14th century and there’s plenty of scenic views along the way. In about 30 minutes you will have reached the top of Naksan mountain, the smallest of Seoul’s four mountains, and there’s plenty of trendy cafes right next to the trail as you go up.

Seoul City Wall Walk

Look back to see the modern capital that has sprung up outside the walls since.

Seoul City Wall Walk

The hilltop of Naksan has a few paths and observation decks for more views of the city below.

Seoul City Wall Walk
Seoul City Wall Walk

Artful stroll in Ihwa Village

You could continue to follow the wall hike from there (it goes on for another 11 miles if you wish to complete it!) or retrace your steps to explore the small Ihwa Village that spreads down the eastern side of the slope. Like many similar neighborhoods around the world, this used to be an area that had fallen behind and got revitalized in the 2000s with colorful murals from local artists.

It’s a fun and peaceful walk down following stairways and labyrinthine streets looking for art around every corner.

Traditional feast in Gwangjang Market

With all this walking, you’ll be ready for a feast and nowhere else would it be as memorable as tasting your way through Seoul’s famous Gwangjang Market.

Gwangjang Market Seoul

The massive traditional market is now best known’s as Seoul’s busiest food hall thanks to the hundreds of food stalls that have settled amid the fabric and dry goods wholesalers. The atmosphere is intoxicating as are the smells coming from hot food vendors, kimchi sellers, and fresh seafood suppliers.

Gwangjang Market Seoul

You can certainly follow your eyes and nose and eat your way through the alleyways, squeezing on benches at any of the tempting vendors’ stalls. Or I would recommend you book a food tour (there are several on sites like Get Your Guide or Airbnb Experiences) to get a wider introduction to Korea’s traditional snacks and dishes.

Gwangjang Market Seoul

From mung-bean pancakes and mangu (Korean dumplings) to bibimbap and all the kimchi, there’s a world of deliciousness for foodies and bites you’ll likely won’t get a chance to try anywhere else.

Gwangjang Market Seoul
Gwangjang Market Seoul
Kimchi vendor in Gwangjang market
Gwangjang Market Seoul
Gwangjang Market Seoul
Golden fried mung-bean pancakes and sugar donut

Adventurous eaters shouldn’t miss trying sannakji, raw octopus tentacles that still wriggle on the plate and in your mouth. The trick is to chew them quickly before they can attach to the inside of your mouth, or even worse, your throat. People have died choking on these so use caution! They are tasty and worth seeking since they’re so fresh and usually only lightly dressed with salt and sesame oil.

Sannakji

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