We woke up to a drizzly morning in Drymen, much more typical than yesterday’s gorgeous start from Milngavie. Far from dampening my spirits, I saw the gloomy weather as the quintessential backdrop to a true Highland hike and was already imagining the magical scenery made even more dramatic. After layering up and packing all the waterproof gear, we filled up on Scottish fare fit for the day ahead (and the 14.5 miles to our next hotel). Leaving Drymen behind, this morning saw us gently climb through a forest plantation under a steady drizzle.
We emerged around mid-morning in a clearing to the foggy sight of Conic Hill which somehow appeared less imposing than the glimpse we had yesterday.
With no break in the rain we climbed steadily the 1200ft or so through the fog to just below the top of Conic Hill. Despite the limited visibility, it’s worth climbing to one of the multiple summits which give an incredible view over Loch Lomond, well in good weather I’m sure.
Still, I loved the moody landscape with the fast moving clouds unveiling briefly the lake below before covering it all over again.
I could only imagine the views (and the pics!) if we had come here yesterday…. but hey, nature is glorious nonetheless and without the rain the greens wouldn’t pop nearly as much.
A slippery and steep descent took us swiftly down to the village of Balmaha on the loch shore where everyone vanished into the first restaurant in sight: the Oak Tree Inn. By then soaked nearly to the bone, we gathered under one of the heated lamps and had a filling lunch of cullen skink and chicken pot pie with hot teas to warm us up for the second half of the day.
Like magic, the sky started clearing up just as we were getting ready to leave for which I was most grateful. Partly because tiny Balmaha looked like a lovely place to explore for a bit.
Its sheltered bay sees a hive of boating activity in the summer and many cruises that tour Loch Lomond depart from here. There was also a statue that intrigued me: that of Tom Weir, a Scottish climber, author, environmentalist, and broadcaster who lived locally.
What a relief it was to see the sun peeking at times from behind the clouds, drying our clothes and especially bathing this absolutely lovely stretch of the walk in a warm light. We bid goodbye to Balmaha and its colorful cottages and continued on the next 7 miles of the Way.
The rest of the afternoon was on a pleasantly varied path that meandered between natural forests and the shore of Loch Lomond, rising and falling many times though nothing as major as that morning’s climb.
We were treated to frequent views of Loch Lomond, Britain’s largest body of fresh water covering 27 square miles. I had once attended a wedding on its shore and danced the night away on a boat in the middle of it many years ago.
The path traverses a few tiny beaches and rocky coves which were free of the many visitors that no doubt will swarm the place in a few months. For now it was mostly just a few locals well wrapped up, contemplating the tranquil water sitting on a warm blanket.
For a few short sections you have no choice but to join the road which was pretty quiet this time of year. I quite liked getting a view into village life and picturesque homes.
So many spots were just begging for you to take a break even if just to admire the scenery for a few minutes. I understood the attraction of stretching the Way over several more days so you could stick around a secluded bay like this, maybe read a book or take a nap on that bed of cushy moss…
We even stumbled upon this cottage for rent which seemed straight out of The Holiday movie – definitely wouldn’t mind a house swap with that one!
A few more short steep climbs near the end made us look forward to our hotel room and a hot shower, our bodies still slightly damp from the morning’s rain and the afternoon’s workouts.
What a joy to spot the Rowardennan Hotel right on the shore of Loch Lomond. This one dates back to 1696 though has been refurbished since and has a homey bar, the Clansman Bar, with burning fire and beer garden which is really all any walkers want after a long day on the road.
Watching the sunset on the loch right behind the hotel was the ideal way to end Day 2 of the Way. Despite a wet and slightly tiresome morning, I felt we lucked out on the weather yet again and thought the afternoon’s mix of beaches and short forest climbs was an interesting change of scenery. I couldn’t wait for tomorrow which promised even more beauty…
