For the intrepid travelers like myself who typically avoid the Caribbean due to the fear of being bored on a beach resort, I have finally found the perfect island: St. Lucia! The largest of the Windward Islands in the West Indies boasts so many outdoorsy things to do I couldn’t even fit them all in a week on this tropical paradise. Dramatic natural landscapes abound – from the iconic twin peaks and bubbling springs to pristine beaches and lush rainforests – making St. Lucia the region’s most diverse and magnificent playground.
Enchanting Soufrière
For the easiest access to the main activities, I recommend you set up your base in Soufrière, the original capital of St. Lucia. Sitting on the west coast, the town is one of the island’s most breathtaking spots. Home to its most famous landmarks, the Gros Piton and Petit Piton volcanoes rising from the clear blue Caribbean, and surrounded by sandy beaches, there is not a bad view to be had around.
The local beach is protected by lush cliffs on each side with snack bars and a fun local vibe as the day progresses.
Many hotels built right on the hillside provide breathtaking views of the bay and a nice rest between your numerous adventures like the Green Fig Resort & Spa where I stayed for a few days. Only downside of the proximity to the town center and the beach are the loud dance parties on the weekends. Be ready to stay up until the wee hours of the morning while the weeknights are a lot quieter.
You can catch up on some z’s by the pool…
Wake up to fresh tropical fruits, excellent coffee, and a deliciously filling creole breakfast of stewed salted cod fish, salad, and bakes – perfect to fuel your day’s active pursuits.
There’s also an amazing take out spot called Island Chef by the beach for fresh grilled fish with curry sauce and all the local side dishes you can dream of (pictured below right).
With a name like Soufrière, it should come as no surprise that the town was first established by French colonialists before the British invasion. It was rebuilt many times over after hurricanes, a major fire, and an earthquake, lending a laid-back charm to the clutter of mixed buildings along the streets.
Brightly colored wooden cottages and tin shacks stand next to a few colonial-era houses while music blasts from shop windows or idled cars.
The Saturday Farmers’ Market by the beach is a great place to grab fresh produce, a cold drink, and observe local life for a while (and in the shade which is hard to come by!).
Geothermal activity & tropical flora
Soufrière sits right in the caldera of a dormant volcano, putting you within easy reach of hot springs and geothermal fields. You can drive in a few minutes to the seven-mile-wide caldera (the world’s only “drive-through volcano”) and walk around the collapsed crater.
There’s activity all right as the plumes of rising steam, bubbling muddy puddles, and rotten egg sulfur smell indicate, although last eruption dates back to 1766.
Make sure to bring a swimsuit and towel and head to the nearby Sulphur Springs where you can bathe in the warm, mineral-rich water and treat your body with a healing mud mask. You’ll feel wonderfully rejuvenated with baby soft skin for the rest of the day!
Extend your “spa day” with a visit to the beautiful Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens close by. You can slowly walk the trails around the 6 acres of planted gardens, admiring the tropical flowers and trees at your own pace.
At the end of the path you’ll find a most beautiful scene – Diamond Falls. They look almost as if they’ve been drawn to illustrate the cover of the Jungle Book, so perfectly framed by the garden’s lush greenery and rust-colored background. The Sulphur Springs you just bathed in are the source of this waterfall which explains the mineral-stained rock wall. There are also mineral baths in the botanical gardens you can bathe in (sans mud this time) if one dip wasn’t enough for the day and I highly recommend you do!
The sweet side
The most renowned beach on the island is nestled right between the two iconic Pitons and has a name as sweet as its location – Sugar Beach. This stretch of imported white sand offers dramatic views of the peaks and the chic crowd that descends from the adjoining 5-star Viceroy Resort. You’re free to visit for the day, laze on the gorgeous beach and go snorkeling along the shore but don’t forget your towel as those comfy loungers are for hotel guests (or real heavy tippers!).
It’s totally worth making a day or half-day of it. The open-air restaurant is fabulous for sipping rosé and feasting on wood-fired dishes perfect for hot summer days.
If satisfying your sweet tooth is more of your jam than laying on a beautiful beach, a stop at nearby Rabot Hotel and Restaurant should help curb your cravings. Part of Hotel Chocolat (a British chocolate manufacturer and cacao grower), the estate is set on a working cacao farm and the best place to immerse yourself in the local cacao delights in all shapes and forms.
The open-air restaurant overlooks the Petit Piton and is surrounded by a lush jungle. You feel miles away from civilization even though the main road and Soufrière are close by.
It’s a unique chance to try “cacao cuisine” which makes use of every part of the cacao pods, both sweet and savory, in fascinating recipes and pairings. From the bread course which came with cacao butter and dipping sauces and Cacao Bellini cocktail made with fresh cacao pulp to my main course of seared yellowfin tuna covered in cacao butter sauce and cacao nibs, the menu is as stunning as the setting.
Leave room for desserts which unsurprisingly outnumber the other dishes. My “So Creole” ending married pieces of caramelized rum pineapple on top of a Creole vanilla cream, a coconut cocoa sponge, and a delicious rum and raisin ice cream.
You can spend a cacao-filled day here between eating, walking the trails that snake their way through the farm, perhaps booking a spa treatment (cacao body wrap anyone?) and joining one of the on-site experiences.
A short walk up a hill brings you to their Projet Chocolat pavilion where you can shop the local cacao-derived products they make, taste chocolates and liqueur (the cacao gin was especially good) and partake in their immersive “bean to bar experience”.
After hours on the estate, a filling cacao-based meal, and more tastings and indulgences you’ve allowed yourself in a very long time, you’re now crushing fresh cacao nibs with sugar in a hot mortar to make your own chocolate bar. As you salivate at the intoxicating smell of it all you realize there truly IS always room for chocolate…
End the sweetest day with a sunset drink overlooking the Pitons, perhaps a gin from Rabot Estate served neat to appreciate all the cacao nuances you’ve trained your palate to discern today.
Active Pursuits
With yesterday’s sugar rush still coursing through your veins, now’s the time to get out there and explore some of St Lucia’s “bumpy” playground. If you’re up for a morning challenge, hiking the 2,619-foot Gros Piton is a great way to get some nice views along the way and your heart pumping.
The roughly 4-hour hike is thankfully in the shade for the most part though can be steep at times so you’re going to work those calf muscles!
Reaching the top brings views towards the north of the island, taking in the island’s highest peak of Mount Gimie (3,120 ft) in the distance.
If you’re looking for a more gentle hike, the popular Tet Paul Scenic Trail is a wonderful alternative.
You get to walk through agricultural land, coming up close to the local crops and perhaps even getting a taste of what’s in season.
You get better sea views from this hike and can look all the way down at Sugar Beach’s enviable location.
Next, hit the water on a half day boat tour, leaving from the beach right in Soufrière. It’s a great way to fully appreciate the topography of the island and take a peak at the luxurious waterfront villas and posh resorts.
Entering Marigot Bay is like slipping inside a bottle with a carefully constructed Caribbean bay model, all pristine and perfectly proportioned. The tall palm trees, the still mirror-like turquoise water, the iconic sailboats, the perched millionaires’ mansions… the natural harbour screams glamour and celebrities the moment you lay eyes on it.
You could stop by for a bite at one of the very chic restaurants or stay on the water in the hopes of spotting someone famous from what is inarguably the best vantage point.
Swap luxury for history in the next stop at Pigeon Island National Park on the northern side of St Lucia. This distinctively-shaped islet is where the naval power and control of the island was decided in the 18th century.
You can hike up to the fort the British army built when they invaded French-owned St Lucia for amazing views.
A man-made causeway now links the island with the western coast of the mainland.
End your boat tour with a bit of snorkeling in one of the secluded bays on your way back to Soufrière.
You only need to go knee deep to find yourself surrounded by a myriad of sea creatures.
These are just a handful of the things you can do on this varied and adventure-packed island. Including some well-deserved relaxation time by the beach or the pool means you can easily fill an entire week or more in St Lucia without ever getting bored. Add to this the perfect weather, great food, friendly people, beautiful beaches, …ok maybe substracting a few points for driving on the left on crazy curvy mountain roads (!) and you have honestly one of the best Caribbean island in my opinion.
Next post I’ll share a little secret with you – an absolute gem of accommodation for the “relaxing” part of your week…
