The capital of Oaxaca is already filled to the brim with art from its colorful street murals to the innumerable shops selling exquisite handicrafts throughout the town. What most people don’t know though is that these creations are all made in one of the many villages radiating out from the city center. Each village seems to specialize in a particular craft and one can visit artisans’ homes and workshops to learn about the craft, ask questions, and of course purchase unique souvenirs. With most of them all within 30 miles of the city, it’s entirely possible to combine a few into an art filled day trip. Here are a few of my favorites:
San Martín Tilcajete
Entering San Martin Tilcajete, you would think this village’s specialty is gorgeous wall art as there’s nary an empty wall in sight.
The details and colors are simply stunning and rival many of the greatest murals in the capital.
It’s true that you’ve entered an extremely creative and talented village, but not in the art form that has greeted you from the road. This village is THE capital of alebrijes, the wood carved figures omnipresent all around Oaxaca.
A couple from the town, Jacobo and Maria Angeles, became famous for their alebrijes and especially their painting of fine, very intricate designs. Their home and workshop is now a full production and tourist attraction to see the process of making these whimsical creatures.
Young people from the village, mostly family relatives, are busy at various stations. Here is the first step of carving the wood (soft copal) using only hand tools to shape it into whatever figure the carver feels like. While their pieces won’t fetch the high prices as the ones done by the master, they are very similar in style and quality.
You’ll also attend a short lesson on the art of making the different paint colors from natural elements, a fascinating workshop where insects turn purple and lime magically transforms just about everything.
Inside the building you’ll find the painters in full concentration, delicately applying layers upon layers of bright and unnatural colors characteristic of the Angeles’ style.
The entire process of making one alebrije, including carving, drying, submersion in gasoline and other chemical to kill insect eggs in the wood and painting averages about a month and up to several months for larger pieces.
Get up close to see the minuscule and exquisite designs, usually representing flowers, plants, geometric designs and indigenous symbols. My shaky hands could never achieve such mastery!
A small shop at the back let’s you peruse a small sample of art available for sale. While you can get a tiny hanging ornament for about $50, the average piece on this table retails in the hundreds…
…and the larger ones in the thousands. You can find even more stunning specimens in the center of Oaxaca at Voces de Copal which I highly recommend you visit also.
San Bartolo Coyotepec
A visit to San Bartolo Coyotepec, known for its unique black pottery, gives you intimate access to witnessing live how all the black vases, glasses, cups, etc. seen in so many shops in Oaxaca are truly made. Step into the workshop of one of the many families passing down the craft from generation to generation and appreciate the craftmanship from up close.
The nearly finished product isn’t black yet – the color comes from the firing process.
Teotitlan del Valle
World-renowned for its high quality woven rugs, Teotitlan del Valle knows how to put on a show and you’ll have a wonderful time immersing yourself in the craft.
Visits are usually focused on one family of weavers who will host you and show you their entire rug-making process, from wool spinning and dyeing (with all natural dyes coming from plants, insects, fruits, etc.) to weaving.
A few families also offer home cooked lunch as part of an organized visit which you won’t want to miss.
Santo Tomás Jalieza
Although the weavers in Teotitlan del Valle are more famous, those from Santo Tomás Jalieza are still practicing a very ancient form of weaving which you can see in action by visiting the local market set up in the main square.
You can browse and purchase ponchos, purses, table runners, belts and placemats at really good prices before heading back to town, less than 15 miles away.
