Just north of the Centro Historico you’ll find Oaxaca’s oldest neighborhood – Xochimilco. It has all the historical charm and as many (if not more!) graphic murals than in nearby Jalatlaco so is definitely worth a stroll. The crowds are even thinner here, the cobblestone streets have more elevation, and there’s a true residential feel as you climb higher and higher away from the main road.
Hidden eateries abound and knowing where you’re going will help. You couldn’t just stumble upon Chepiche Cafe, well concealed down an alley between two residential buildings, and that’s part of the charm of eating in this tropical oasis.
Settle in the courtyard garden, admire the artwork on display, and slowly feast on breakfast dishes as pretty as the surroundings.
My Huevos Divorciados (divorced eggs) were indeed perfectly separated in the nicest visual way…
Following the main artery of Calle José López Alavez will have you walked past some of the most stunning murals and best coffee shops.
Filemón, another lovely coffee shop (from a local coffee roaster so you know the brew is going to be high quality), is easier to find at the main fork just off Calle José López Alavez. Go up the stairs to the rooftop for a breakfast with a view.
Continue north on the main street to hit an unending stretch of the latest murals…
When you reach the first street light, you have the 18th century aqueduct San Felipe to your right and a neighborhood slopping upward to your left begging to be explored on foot.
Xochimilco climbs ever so gently with a steady alternation of street art and quaint residential vignettes. Don’t mind where you’re going, just follow your instincts and go where the colors are calling.
You feel miles away from the city center here, wandering the peaceful and hilly streets of possibly the most picturesque of Oaxaca’s already insanely photogenic neighborhoods.
A stop at Corazón de Cacao is a must if only to meet the charming owner and get a crash course on the family’s chocolate making history. You can get an authentic drinking chocolate here (hot or cold) picked from a handful of different parts of the cacao tree (cacao flower was a revelation in taste!) and buy everything from cacao seeds, chocolate bars, wooden whisks (molinillo) to make hot coco at home the traditional way, etc.
Some murals really do stand out by their colors and others by their originality, such as this near photographic depiction of this couple, tailors by profession, adorning their shop.
While the area is filled with coffee shops and small eateries, one destination is worth planning a visit around and it’s the famous restaurant Ancestral which you’ll find nearly hidden in the middle of a curved alley off the main street.
Ancestral Cocina Tradicional does exactly what its name implies: traditional Oaxacan food. That’s one reason to go for sure but there’s so much more…
The setting for one is absolutely delightful. Casual and rustic, you’ll never want to leave this verdant garden with birds flying overhead and lights twinkling in the trees.
It’s filled with locals which is another plus sign even before you’ve had a taste of their amazing food.
Amuse-bouche and some of the best mezcal cocktails get the meal off to a great start.
For appetizer, a tetela de chicharrón prensado con pulpo aka “pressed pork rind tetela with octopus” – so good!
Main dish was a traditional caldo de píedra (stone soup) which is a fish and shrimp soup prepared tableside. It’s quite the spectacle to order this dish as the waiter prepares all the ingredients in front of you and then proceed to drop hot rocks into the broth which boils the liquid and cooks the soup in a matter of minutes! A humble and comforting dish well worth seeking out and a perfect end to an active walk around enchanting Xochimilco.
