Few villages embody the ideal of ‘small-town America’ as well as Cooperstown in central New York. Founded in 1786 by William Cooper, father of novelist James Fenimore Cooper, who wrote “The Last of the Mohicans” and other tales set in this region, the vintage postcard setting of the town has made it one of the most visited in the country.
It’s an ideal long weekend getaway from NYC – a 3.5hrs drive from the city or only an hour from the Albany airport. As soon as you enter the town you’re transported back to another time. Simply walking the three blocks long Main street conjures up scenes straight from a Rockwell painting with families eating ice cream next to retro storefronts.
If you didn’t know it already, Cooperstown is famous for something other than its vintage charms. It is home to the National Baseball Hall of Fame and Museum – a real shrine for thousands and thousands of game enthusiasts who come here to pay homage to the heroes and admire such beloved memorabilia as the ball that Babe Ruth hit for his 500th home run.
Almost every other shop in town is dedicated to America’s favorite pastime and you’ll be able to get your hands on anything from uniforms for kids and adults to vintage cards and bats. If you’re not into baseball fear not – there’s still plenty to enjoy for the non-devotees.
Word of the beautiful village started spreading in the late 19th century and wealthy New Yorkers began building vacation homes up here, creating stately civic structures that bookend Main street.
Side streets brimmed with historic mansions, many turned into exquisite inns that are a big draw for visitors.
And two blocks from the Main street you’ll find Cooperstown’s true jewel – Otsego Lake.
Also known as Lake Glimmerglass (the name James Fenimore Cooper gave Otsego Lake in his most famous book, “The Last of the Mohicans), the lustrous nine-mile-long lake is a hub of activities. Whether you wish to take a canoe across, stand up paddleboard, try your hand at fishing or simply contemplate its sparkling beauty, you’ll keep on finding yourself drawn to its shores which only add to Cooperstown’s romantic appeal.
A number of grand residences are to be found all around it such as the Fenimore Art Museum set in a beautiful 1930’s brick mansion.
It houses one of the largest collections of American Indian art and artifacts as well as American folk and decorative art. Some of the furniture and portraits shed some light on the life of the town’s famous author and his family.
The grounds at the back offer expansive views of the lake and there’s a short walking trail to see other outlying buildings.
Near the northern part of the lake, you’ll find the most spectacular of all the mansions around in the legendary Hyde Hall. The national historic landmark is considered the finest example of neoclassic country mansions anywhere in the United States and doing a guided tour of its interior is definitely a must when visiting Cooperstown.
The British-American country house was the home of George Clark, a wealthy English landowner, who married the widow of James Fenimore Cooper’s oldest brother. He bought some land on Lake Otsego in 1817 and commissioned a grand house which was built between 1817 and 1834 and considered the largest residence built in this country before the Civil War.
Step inside for a taste of a Jane Austen life and some serious architecture envy…
There are nearly 50 rooms in Hyde Hall, from the splendid entertaining areas to the modest staff quarters and all have a fascinating history divulged by your skilled guide. Restoration is ongoing and you’ll get to hear about (and perhaps see) the painstaking details of bringing the mansion back to its former glory.
Most of the furnishings are original to the house and although many had been sold at auctions over time, volunteers are tracking them down and buying them back.
The first phase of Hyde Hall was this lovely stone house (1817-1819) which contains the family living quarters.
The views from the porch are exquisite and you can see Cooperstown in the distance some 8 miles away.
Look in the other direction and you’ll see the beach and hiking trails of Glimmerglass State Park adjoining the property on the north end of Otsego Lake.
Ending your visit of Hyde Hall with a forested walk in the park and some more picturesque views of the lake is to me the perfect way to spend an afternoon.
You can also check in one more piece of history by stopping by Hyde Hall Bridge – the oldest documented, existing covered bridge in the United States.
It was built in 1825 on what was then the private property of Hyde Hall.
Continue your circumnavigation of the lake to reach a different kind of oasis – Origins Cafe. The much loved seasonal eatery just outside of Cooperstown is set within a garden center and is a wonderful place for a healthy lunch.
Enjoy organic, seasonal dishes made from locally grown produce while sitting in the middle of a greenhouse, surrounded by flowers, plants, and the gurgling of water fountains – so restful!
Also on your way out of Cooperstown, you shouldn’t miss the hot spot that is Brewery Ommegang. The former farm has been transformed into the area’s most popular hangout and you can easily spend a few hours here being well fed and entertained.
The outdoor bar and terrace is a prime spot to savor the rich and excellent Belgian-style ales and partake into some lawn games.
The food menu is equally fun and delicious, especially the chicken and waffle topped with raspberry jam and maple bacon bechamel…
Don’t forget to visit the shop for some souvenirs. They have a decent selection of glasses, mugs and snacks perfect for pairing with the many brews you’ll be leaving with. The making of an epic picnic in this laid-back and gorgeous corner of Upstate New York.
