Americas Mexico Travels

Isla Espiritu Santo – The Galapagos of Mexico

August 30, 2020

If you’ve made it to La Paz and spent a few days living the life, eating your heart out and visiting the most gorgeous beaches and friendly whale sharks, chances are you would have heard of Espiritu Santo Island. Twenty-five kilometres off the coast of La Paz, Isla Espíritu Santo is widely regarded as the most beautiful island in the Sea of Cortez (which has more than 900 of them so no small feat!). You won’t want to miss a day trip to this UNESCO World Heritage Site, home to dreamy beaches, crystal-clear waters, and a super friendly colony of sea lions.

Isla Espiritu Santo

The best way to visit Isla Espiritu Santo is with an authorized tour operator, who will take you from La Paz to the island and back in about 7 hours. I met up with Punta Baja Tours one bright and sunny morning at Playa Pichilingue north of La Paz where we departed from a tranquil cove.

The hour-long boat ride takes you first along the scenic coast of the Baja peninsula…

… where you can get another perspective on its stunning beaches, such as Playa Balandra here seen from the boat.

Playa Balandra from the boat

Playa El Tecolote is another popular beach right next to Balandra, with more services but fewer jaw-dropping scenery.

Tecolote Beach

And then it’s on towards Isla Espiritu Santo, which is technically a small archipelago composed of five smaller islands.

Isla Espiritu Santo in the distance

The main island is roughly 31 square miles, uninhabited, and a protected biosphere reserve due to the incredible diversity of the creatures that call its otherworldly landscape and turquoise waters home.

Centuries of wind and water have carved dramatic cliffs into the volcanic strata of the island, revealing reds and blacks that contrast beautifully against the vivid green shrubs and cerulean sea.

Every few minutes appear small coves lined with pristine white sand.

Isla Espiritu Santo

A colony of Magnificent Frigate birds can be seen and heard from afar. Known to be the 7th fastest bird in the world, they surprisingly can’t swim despite spending all of their time near the water.

Beach on Isla Espiritu Santo

The main island connects with Isla Partida at its northernmost point via a narrow canal as you continue the boat ride north.

Isla Espiritu Santo

You’ll pass under a rock arch carved on the west side of Isla Partida, bringing you that much closer to the massive rainbow-colored cliffs you’ve been skirting and admiring for hours.

And soon you’ll have your eyes on the prize: the little group of islands at the northernmost part of the archipelago – Los Islotes.

The set of islets is home to a large sea lions colony (reportedly over 400!) and is a highlight of every tour to Isla Espiritu Santo.

They are literally everywhere, basking in the sun, frolicking in the water, peeking from caves and holes in the cliffs.

Las Islotes sea lions

All you hear besides the clapping of the water are the barks from the temperamental bulls, large black male seals that like to honk at tourists (and mostly defend their territory).

Las Islotes sea lions
Las Islotes sea lions
Las Islotes sea lions

While there’s plenty to see from the boat, the real thrill is jumping in the water with a snorkel and taking part in their afternoon play session.

Sea lion at Isla Espiritu Santo

I dare you to think of a recent experience that brought so much childish joy than having these juvenile sea lions swirl all around you. Definitely one for the bucket list!

Sea lion at Isla Espiritu Santo

Their curiosity and playfulness is contagious as they torpedo toward your face before swiftly changing course at the last minute, gracefully going up to take a breath before coming back down to play some more. What a treat.

Sea lion at Isla Espiritu Santo

Starving after this wild swim and still laughing at all the tricks these adorable creatures played on us, we stopped at yet another little piece of paradise: Playa Ensenada Grande.

Beach on Isla Espiritu Santo

Once voted the most beautiful beach in Mexico and ranked amidst the most gorgeous in the world, this dreamy stretch of sand is the perfect pit stop for lunch.

Beach on Isla Espiritu Santo

Ceviche and a cold beer in this natural setting… I’d do this everyday.

Ceviche!

On the way back, your guide will point out some impressive rock formations along the coast, such as ‘La Mascara‘ (the mask)…

…and the ‘devil’s profile‘ looking out to the sea.

We return at sunset which only multiplies the stunning views as we leave the islands behind.

The last few rays ignite the rocks, turning the peninsula and the island gorgeous hues of reds and oranges.

Isla Espiritu Santo at sunset

No wonder Isla Espiritu Santo is often referred to as the ‘Galapagos of Mexico’, and sometimes of North America.  Absolutely enamored with it, and the fact that it is one of those rare spots today where nature seems to thrive, unhindered and untouched.

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