The warm summer days on the coast of New England seem far behind now, though I’m glad it took me that long to publish this post as I get to relive this charming town on a cold, late fall day. With history around every corner (it was settled in the 1600s) and a thriving food and cultural scene, it’s fair to say Portsmouth, New Hampshire is a coastal gem worth exploring.
It’s an easy day trip from Boston although you’ll want to stay at least a night or two to make the most of it. While there are a few key sites to check off your tourist list, the small town beckons you to stroll its quiet neighborhoods (almost everything is within walking distance – fantastic!) and take in the myriads of Georgian homes gracing the streets.
The south waterfront area is particularly picturesque. 18th century homes with clapboard sidings in a rainbow of colors will quickly zip you back in time.
You’ll undoubtedly notice the more upscale Wentworth-Gardner House on your stroll which sits on the waterfront. It’s a National Historic Landmark which you can tour to get a peak at the design and architecture as well as learn a bit of history. But don’t spend too much time in here as you’ll be doing a lot of house visits shortly…
Get a fresh breath of coastal air and a peak at the nearby harbor, still pretty busy these days. Water played a big part in Portsmouth’s history as it was built on the Piscataqua River exclusively for the King’s commerce – to build British ships.
Walk along the water to reach Prescott Park and its formal gardens which were in full bloom when I visited in September.
You’ll find gorgeous oasis of calm with fountains and benches to rest for a bit.
An old cemetery features some fascinating gravestones (skulls and crossbones were in vogue) belonging to the elite from back in the days.
When lunchtime comes, the buzzing old harbour is the place to be. Portsmouth has a huge choice of amazing and modern restaurants all within a few blocks of each other so having a great meal here is no issue and will be a highlight of your stay. For a quick and delicious seafood fix, check out the Old Ferry Landing on the docks.
The old seafood shack has a large outdoor terrace so you can watch the boats go by, super friendly staff, and most importantly a very decent menu of local seafood specialties. Seeing the popularity of the place and the turnover, you know it’s all insanely fresh and you can taste it too. I got the fried scallops basket and can still remember biting into their smooth, buttery flesh… the stuff of dreams.
Now you should be ready to tackle Portsmouth’s main attraction: The Strawbery Banke Museum. An absolute ‘do not miss’ in the heart of the historic downtown area, this living indoor-outdoor museum packs a punch within its 10 acres. You might have walked by on your morning stroll without realizing it…
Opened in 1958, the complex of 36 buildings spanning 300 years of American history is considered to be the first urban preservation project in the United States. Plan for a few hours here so you can explore at a leisurely pace and partake in some of the ‘living’ demonstrations.
Besides the houses and buildings, there are eight well maintained gardens to wander through, some aesthetic and others recreated to showcase the edibles grown a few centuries ago.
I think the last time I experienced a similar outdoor museum was during my school years! I must say I really enjoyed the exploration, the ability to come in and out of the buildings in whichever order you chose, and all the details that brought to life Portsmouth from the late 1600s until the 1950s.
The randomness of the visits also meant I would walk into a 1950s living room one minute…
…and step into a 17th century wood-framed English house the next.
While some structures are more modest, others like the Chase House, which belonged to a merchant family, have incredible architecture and woodwork which are beautifully accompanied by period furniture and costumes.
Cooking demonstrations are also taking place – ah, the smell of an open hearth!
Fragments of original tapestry have stood the test of time in more ways than we thought. What was fashionable then is making a comeback and I for one would love to adorn a wall with such an exquisite pastoral scene – wouldn’t you?
The time warp is real when walking into the general store…
Brands are familiar still, but not the prices!
A few buildings have costumed role-players which add to the history and frankly, it’s just fun to play along! I had an enlightening conversation with the store owner’s daughter Ines who was mending some apron while checking in on clients in the store (connected to their house of course). A rewarding and charming afternoon it was…and possibly the best 300 years of history telling you can get in New Hampshire!
Back in the 21st century, there’s a lively downtown area filled with great restaurants and shops to explore.
And more beautiful houses to admire from the street.
You’ll need a drink after all that walking and I can’t think of a better place than The Wilder. The gastropub makes the best craft cocktails in town and their food looked really good too even though I didn’t indulge.
Just up the street you’ll find The Franklin, a modern tavern and oyster house with glowing reviews. I was intrigued…
Retro look, very decent cocktail menu and a shucking station greeted me at the door and I knew this would be a good dinner.
Of course, the local oysters are a marvel and you should try every one they have available.
The rest of the menu is tapas-style and won’t disappoint.
Before heading out the next day, get your caffeine fix at Caffe Kilim. The Turkish coffee shop is a local favorite and has a super cozy interior where you can also shop for Middle Eastern goods while having breakfast.
Of course, the strong Turkish coffee is the reason to come here!
One last stop before hitting the road as it wouldn’t be a true New England getaway without that iconic shot… There’s a lovely lighthouse a 5 minutes drive away in New Castle with gorgeous harbor views and plenty of coastal pedigree.
