So few people I know have been to Buffalo. The second-most populous city in New York State is more often the butt of a joke then a destination on your wishlist. Bitter cold winters? Industrial decline? Just a pit stop on your way to Niagara Falls? Wrong! The Buffalo I just visited was a delight deserving way more than a weekend to do it justice. There’s an identity affirming renaissance happening here and you should plan your visit now.
If you’re a fan of architecture, you’ll no doubt have heard that Buffalo is home to some of Frank Lloyd Wright’s best works. How many cities can boast seven of its splendid creations? Taking in Buffalo’s magnificent architecture is the easiest way to fall in love with it and see it as it was in its industrial heydays. If you have only a short time, make a visit to the Martin House a priority, and take the two hour tour.
No photos are allowed inside so you’ll have to see it for yourself, but I can assure you that stepping inside this temple of design is absolutely incredible. Especially when learning about the house’s history of opulence, abandonment and meticulous $50 million restoration that took 21 years.
The house was the most extravagant private residence Frank Lloyd Wright ever designed, and it was also his favorite. He described it as “a domestic symphony” and that it was “the most perfect thing of its kind in the world.” He affectionately called it his “opus” which should give you an idea of its splendor.
The 15,000-square-foot complex takes up nearly half a city block and every inch of it was refurbished in meticulous details, from the refabricated glass windows to the Wright-designed furniture. Standing in the middle of it, noticing his signature glass work, his clever use of natural light, and his talent for bringing the outside in has imprinted a vision in me I shall keep forever – and lofty goals for one day finding a similarly inspiring place to live in!
A dramatic 175-foot pergola links the house to the rest of the complex and pulls you towards the seductive view of a towering Winged Victory sculpture in the conservatory.
The visit ends with the gardener’s cottage, a decidedly more modest example of Frank’s style but no less interesting to explore. You’ll leave with a newfound passion for the architect if you hadn’t been hooked before, and a newly created list of homes to visit across the US!
The neighborhood around the house makes for a lovely walk and you can also see a few blocks away another one of Frank’s designs. The Walter Davidson House is privately owned (lucky them!) but you can have a good look at it from the street.
Time to check out the food scene and it is fabulous here and totally unpretentious which is so refreshing to see. Of course you can have your fill of delicious chicken wings at many of the local taverns (ask for suggestions – everyone has a strong opinion!) but for a modern mix of small, creative plates, look no further than The Dapper Goose.
It has the feel of a very hip and welcoming neighborhood restaurant, comfy seating, and plenty of light – love.
Avocado and crab toast was in order to counteract other Buffalo specialties that were to follow…none too healthy. 😉
Walk it off in beautiful Forest Lawn Cemetery.
There’s another Frank Lloyd Wright’s jewel in here in the shape of the Blue Sky Mausoleum.
Although this unique crypt was commissioned by Darwin Martin (owner of the Martin House you’ve just seen), it was never completed during their lifetime. Martin lost everything in the crash of 1929 and had to put the mausoleum on hold.
The plan was to have a resting place for his entire family with 24 crypts laid out like steps descending to the water’s edge.
The trademark organic architecture is at its place in these lovely grounds and is what I would call a superb last residence…
From there it’s a short walk to another of Buffalo’s shining stars: the Albright-Knox Art Gallery.
It’s one of the oldest museums in the nation and has a high concentration of arresting artworks. I absolutely adore it mainly because of its immaculate curation but also mostly because of its size… So many museums and art galleries are just too big to capture your full attention from beginning to end, and this medium-sized gallery was just perfect to fill in a 2-hour cultural slot with as much beauty as I could take.
Oriol Vilanova’s “Anything, Everything” was a stunner – 4,500 second-hand museum postcards organized by colored background. A mosaic I would blanket a room in my house with…
Modern sculptures on one side, famous paintings on the other – there is literally something for everyone.
Venture outside and you’ll also find a number of amazing sculptures and art installations scattered around the complex.
One more visual gem of Buffalo is the Kleinhans Music Hall, home to the Buffalo Philharmonic Orchestra.
Built in the late 1930s, it is renowned for its acoustical excellence and graceful architecture. Alas, there were no concerts the weekend I was there hence I wasn’t able sadly to experience it for myself…
When dinnertime comes, if you feel like having a well-crafted cocktail (or a few!) with a couple of plates of comfort food, head to Buffalo Proper downtown. The dimly-lit, brick-walled room with a touch of taxidermy and mustachioed bartenders does have that ‘Brooklyn’ feel people seem to want to attribute to everything these days…but it works, tastes amazing, and you’ll have a wonderful, boozy evening.
Near the restaurant, you’ll find the famous Shea’s Performing Arts Center if you want to end the night with a Broadway show or a play. The interior is gorgeous, modeled after the opera houses and palaces of Europe of the 17th and 18th centuries, so full of baroque and rococo.
Another day starts with a filling breakfast at BreadHive Bakery & Cafe.
They make their own bread, bagels and pretzel and their breakfast sandwiches are to die for.
Time to head outside of Buffalo and continue to follow the trace of Frank Lloyd Wright by driving 20 minutes south to reach Graycliff on the shore of Lake Erie.
The beautiful summer estate was designed for Darwin Martin (the same as the Martin House we just visited in Buffalo) and was built between 1926 and 1931.
Graycliff is one of the most ambitious and extensive summer estates Wright ever designed, and although it doesn’t have all the luxurious details of the Martin House, the organic feel and natural location of the house are well worth the detour.
The light pouring in from everywhere is the focal point of the house. The owner’s wife had poor eyesight and the brilliant Frank worked his magic to almost invisibly merge the outside and the inside.
The expansive view over the lake which you can see from everywhere in the house must never have gotten old. Hopefully they will restore the bridge that used to connect with the stairs going down to the beach too!
Enjoy your midday break in the nearby town of Hamburg and its delightful restaurant – The Grange Community Kitchen. The space is gorgeous and the food is all locally sourced and thoughtful. You’ll get a casual cafe vibe during the day and a warm, candle-lit ambiance in the evenings.
End your day by driving the 30 minutes to Niagara Falls for an afternoon of very fine water views shared with a few thousands of tourists. Definitely cross the border into Canada as this is where you’ll have the best panorama.
The famous Horseshoe Falls (straddling the border but mainly visible from the Canadian side) is the clear showstopper and the most powerful waterfall in North America.
It’s powerful, and beautiful, and you’ll get a bit wet while trying to get close to the mouth of the beast. I must admit though, they are no match to Iguazu Falls in South America or Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe… Glad I got to close the loop by finally checking out the North American competition!
