The Philippines are home to thousands of islands making the itinerary pick somewhat daunting. As is often the case though, look towards the outskirts to uncover idyllic hideaways. Pamilacan has got to be Bohol’s best kept secret – a gorgeous tropical paradise filled with sea life and stunning white beaches a mere 45 minutes boat ride away.
Boats leave from the town of Baclayon on Bohol and it’s best to make this short journey at sunrise.
Firstly because seeing that beautiful light while gliding gently towards the Bohol sea is spectacular…
…and secondly because you’ll be passing through what is known here as the ‘Playground of Dolphins’ before reaching Pamilacan in the distance.
The rich waters of the Bohol Sea are teeming with an amazing aquatic life and famous for Dolphin and Whale Watching tours.
We spent an hour floating and following a couple of gracious dolphins who treated us to a few precious apparitions. They love playing in this part of the sea, south of Pamilacan, as it’s where the current is the strongest.
Landing on Pamilacan is a dream: the turquoise sea, the white beaches, the friendly locals, and no signs of massive tourism…
You’ll be greeted by a 200 year old Spanish Fort which in the past served as a watch station against intruders (think pirates).
The rest of the island is a picture perfect introduction to Philippines island living and tells a beautiful story of transformation… You see, the name Pamilacan means ‘resting place of the mantas’ and the local community has always been tied to the marine life surrounding the island. Over 200 families live here and they used to survive mainly on subsistence fishing, which included whale, dolphin, and manta ray hunting. Now Pamilacan is seen as a success story since its inhabitants stopped all hunting activities and turned into protectors of the sea, finding a livelihood in dolphin and whale watching tours as well as guided snorkeling trips to their pristine marine reserve – awe-inspiring.
Take the pulse of this incredible island by walking its length and meeting its people. There’s only one road so you can’t get lost (!) and it’ll take you no more than 20 minutes to go from one end to the other.
You’ll meet lots of chickens, goats, cows and pigs on the way, peacefully grazing around their owner’s house.
Bananas and jackfruits dangle over the road, and coconuts are in abundance as well.
Pretty thatched-roof houses are lined up besides the road with ample gardens and lush vegetation all around. It’s so quiet and alluring you’ll want to knock on anyone’s door to be invited in and enjoy their covered porch…and you probably should as I’m sure they would be delighted.
The locals, and I can easily extrapolate this to the Filipinos in general, are honestly the nicest and most hospitable and you’ll find yourself interacting with everyone you’ll meet on the road. I’ve gotten warm and genuine hellos from every passersby and that tells a lot about a place.
About halfway through your short walk you’ll find a small food stand selling delicious fried bananas sprinkled with sugar – a must eat snack!
The road soon ends at a quaint fishing village which appears untouched by time.
You might still find a few relics of their previous life in the form of whale bones hanging outside some of the fishermen’s houses. But mostly you’ll be charmed by the laid-back vibe and seeking respite from the burning sun!
Long stretches of empty, glistening white beaches announce the end of the village with small tour boats bobbing on the crystal clear water.
This reminds you of the stunning beaches near the fort and of how inviting that water is, so retrace your steps back the same way you came…
A local lunch of freshly caught grilled fish, coconut chicken soup, rice, pickled veggies and a fresh, extra sweet mango is all you could dream of. Enjoy it with your feet in the sand looking out towards the sea and you have the perfect relaxing getaway from the hectic main island.
The only other thing to do on the island and it is for most visitors the true highlight – going underwater to see the amazing aquatic life.
No need to venture very far, just put on your mask and snorkel and submerge your head a few feet from the shore to enter the fringing reef.
The shallow depth make this a wonderful up-close and personal experience as you gently float a few feet above a multitude of colorful starfish. They all appeared to be taking their sun bath amidst the beautiful swaying seagrasses…
If you’re lucky you might even see a turtle or two as they roam around the area. While I didn’t spot one that day, I did encounter my very first bandit snake (!) and followed it for a long time, hypnotized by its striped body undulating right underneath my eyes. A very lucky spectacle!
Resurfacing after an unknown amount of time (you really lose track of everything when you’re drifting underwater following one creature after the next), take in that gorgeous beach and sit down for a while before going back in. I still have a hard time picking which one of these two insanely beautiful blue worlds I preferred; the outside or the underwater one.
Thankfully you can enjoy both for as long as you’re here and there’s more exploring to do by hopping quickly in a tiny wooden boat and letting one of the locals guide you to the protected marine reserve just 10 min away.
Look at that visibility…even from your little embarkation you can enjoy the busy life underneath.
With a bit more depth here comes more action and a grand decor, now filled with anemones, giant gorgonians, and large schools of fish.
It’s an indescribable pleasure to be able to swim and witness such a pristine environment, and though the photos can’t truly do it justice, here’s a little glimpse into another reason why Pamilacan is such a treasure.
