Nicaragua evokes wild images of surf, sand and volcanoes to those looking to explore this still largely unknown gem of a destination. Few are aware that its main cities hold as much of an appeal as its natural wonders and too often hurriedly skip the urban splendors hiding right on their way to their active pursuits.
León especially is passed on in favor of more popular Granada though to many it deserves just as much if not more of your time. The second largest city in Nicaragua is buzzing with energy, revolutionary history, stunning art, and colonial beauty. Fewer tourists also means you’ll truly get to immerse yourself in the local way of life, something harder to do elsewhere in the country.
The core of León is its Central Park (Parque Central) and the cathedral facing it, a humongous monument that will require you to step back multiple times if you want to successfully frame it with your camera. It is unsurprisingly the largest cathedral in Central America.
Step shortly inside for a look at the grand if somewhat conservative interior, mostly remarkable because of its abundance of natural light. You’ll want to go back outside, find the ticket office hidden at the back of the cathedral, buy your $2 access to the rooftop, and come back towards the front to find the side entrance door.
Standing on the roof of the cathedral is undoubtedly the main thing to do in the city.
Walking amidst domes and cupolas in a surreal landscape is a photographer’s dream and you’ll be checking out every artistic angle you can get.
Revel in the best views León has to offer from distant volcanoes to close-ups of pretty churches and busy streets. You’ll find most important sights within a 10 minute walk radius from here so enjoy this epic urban snapshot before heading back down to start your tour.
If the cathedral and parque central are the heart of León, their connecting streets are the veins that carry the pulsing energy, artistic expression, and revolutionary history of this intensely political city.
While violent decades are long past, there are reminders at every corner with each wall telling a poignant story. Getting a tour guide in León for an insight into the Sandinista Revolution is highly recommended as you’ll gain a whole new perspective on what happened in these streets and the impact on its inhabitants.
Street art takes all shape and form here and you’ll have a fun time discovering the many hidden treasures in and around the center.
Equally pleasing to the eyes, the buildings themselves have often been cheerfully painted, from the ornately restored house…
…to the more mundane shops.
Even the somewhat somber administrative buildings have a hauntingly beautiful patina.
Nicaragua is not known for its culinary prowess and after a few days you might have had your share of rice and beans. That being said, León offers a lot more in terms of variety than the beachy destinations you’ll soon be hitting so get your urban food fix here.
Street food is cheap, filling and super tasty and I’ll never pass on some freshly made pupusas de queso (homemade tortillas stuffed with cheese).
For a healthier meal, the tiny Cusco Collao is a fabulous find with beautiful ceviche and other fresh Peruvian offerings.
Walk over to Plaza San Juan two blocks away for a local shopping experience or simply to rest in the nicely shaded park.
Next, head over to what is by far my favorite place in all of León: the Ortiz-Gurdián Foundation Art Museum. Housed in four restored colonial buildings, what is probably the finest museum of contemporary art in all of Central America will blow away any museum-goers looking for a bit of culture. Unfortunately no photos are allowed inside so I can’t show you the majestic interiors which are as much part of the appeal as the private collection hung on the walls.
Nicaraguan and international art from the likes of Rubens, Miró, Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, and Diego Rivera span centuries from the 1500s to today, sharing your attention with the exquisitely ornate interior courtyards, Arabic tiles, and gurgling ponds at the center of it all – simply magical!
One thing I failed to mention is the sweltering heat – León gets HOT, a lot, all year, so you can’t avoid it. You can on the other hand use that as an excuse to sample some amazing ice cream flavors at Kiss Me, a newish ice cream shop opposite the famous Big Foot Hostel. It’s definitely a lot more expensive than the local street snacks but nothing will appease that afternoon sunstroke quite as well.
By now you’ll be properly exhausted. The best idea would be to retire to your abode which will almost certainly include a dreamy and lush courtyard perfect for an afternoon nap.
A lot of the old colonial houses have been turned into boutique hotels and quaint B&Bs. You’ll get quite a shock when stepping through their often austere facade to find yourself in the middle of a tropical paradise…
A good night’s sleep (preferably with AC!) and you’ll be ready to tackle Day 2 in León. The traditional Nicaraguan breakfast of gallo pinto, fried plantain, eggs, cheese and strong local coffee is a wonderful start of the day and especially tasty at the always busy El Desayunazo.
If you feel more like having a nice European breakfast in a tranquil setting, head to Pan & Paz, a sweet bakery owned by French expats.
Settle on the patio at the back with some of the best coffee around and flaky croissants.
Or sample their granola which was mainly my excuse to get a good dose of fresh local fruits!
Today is all about churches seeing as León has fifteen of them (!), more than any other places in Nicaragua. They’re all within walking distance of each other so you can make a leisurely day of strolling around and taking in their vastly different styles. The facades are their most interesting features, none more so than the mustardy baroque Iglesia de la Recolección from 1780’s.
The imposing Iglesia de La Merced is the most pristine and worth stepping inside to admire its impeccable decor (that wooden ceiling!).
La Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco dates from 1639 and hides a lovely little courtyard to escape the heat and relax.
You would have seen the Iglesia del Calvario very well from the rooftop of the cathedral since the recently renovated church is built on top of a small hill overlooking León’s old center.
If you have time, walk the 14 blocks west of the center to reach the indigenous neighborhood of Sutiava. It’s incredible how different this part of the city looks and you’ll feel as if you’ve arrived in the Nicaragua of old with dirt roads and a culture all of its own. Sutiava used to be an independent town populated by indigenous Americans, the first people to settle León long before the Spanish conquered the area. It’s also home to León’s oldest church, San Juan Bautista Sutiava.
Some ancient and well preserved church ruins a few blocks away attest to the area’s long history.
Make your way back towards the center in time to see the light fade around the cathedral, a daily spectacle almost too pretty to capture.
Now that the midday heat has subsided, the streets are filling in with locals, music blaring from food stalls, smoke lifting from sidewalk grills, and León’s heartbeat seriously tempting you to extend your stay…
