Gymkhana, London

February 10, 2016

One doesn’t have to walk around London for too long before seeing (and smelling) the multitude of Indian restaurants spread across the city, tasty reminder of England’s colonial ties. They have given me such pleasures as indulging in the tasting menu at Benares and squeezing in with the crowds at Tayyabs for their lamb chops, and today I can add a memorable meal at the magnificent Gymkhana.

One of few Indian restaurants in London to hold a Michelin star, Gymkhana is what I consider a game-changer in pretty much everything they do from the aesthetics of the interior to the high caliber and variety of the food. The whole thing is inspired by the gentlemen sporting clubs of colonial India and I found the dark leather booths, old equestrian photos, ceiling fans and nostalgic jazz music to be seductively masculine and comfortable, inviting you to linger with your group as if you were members of this attractive club.

The elegant setting in the heart of Mayfair may have helped with the restaurant being named ‘Restaurant of the Year’ in 2014 at the National Restaurant Awards (the first Indian restaurant to ever be awarded) but I think it’s more the modern Indian menu that did the trick. The Anglo-Indian take on the cuisine is phenomenal and has critics and foodies raving, excited to have such an atypical and fantastic menu to sink their teeth into.

While you can spot some familiar words like dosas, kebabs, curries, tikkas, and byrianis, the rest of the beautifully printed page is more obscure and tap into some of the more intriguing dishes from around the country. It’s definitely a ‘game-dominated’ menu best suited for sharing and ordering all the things you know you won’t easily find anywhere else. Like that wild muntjac (small deer) byriani which comes in an ornate pie the dapper waiter will theatrically destroy and serve on the side with a pomegranate and mint raita – you have to have it!

The whole meal will be a succession of perfectly executed dishes served on the best of English china and everything from the exquisite taste to the heavenly scent of fresh spices filling the air will contribute to one of the best eating experiences you’ll have for a while. It isn’t cheap but it isn’t outrageous either considering where you are and how special you’ll feel. Just make sure you share it with a few deserving friends and add some unique desserts to the mix for a most elegant finale.

Complimentary mini papadum crisps served with mango-mint and tomato-shrimp chutneys