France isn’t shy of picturesque villages and exquisite regional delicacies and I’ve had the pleasure of sampling many, from a favorite summer escape in Provence to Mediterranean bliss on the Côte d’Azur and recently a bubbly sejour in Champagne. When the temperature drops though, I seek hearty cuisine and rustic countryside which can all be found in the heart of Burgundy.
One of the oldest wine regions in France (it is believed that the area has produced wine since 300 AD), it has history at every turn and none of the stuffiness of more famous Bordeaux. Burgundy will charm you with its old ways, friendly farmers, and exceptional wine and food. Get your introduction in the walled town of Beaune, the epicenter of it all.
It’s picturesque, almost a little too much, with cobbled streets and shaded squares revealing obvious wealth and a sole common denominator – wine.
Chic mansions, hotels, wine stores, tasting rooms and elegant restaurants in one compact city center has created one of the best places in all of France for wine tasting.
In between two glasses you can visit a handful of historical buildings though they won’t keep you busy for long – you’ll soon be back to swirling grape juice ad infinitum as you should.
Basilica Notre-Dame
Town Hall
Look for the easily missed tiny Passage Saint-Hélène right off Place Carnot where you’ll find a lot of peace…
…and one of Beaune’s most popular restaurants: Ma Cuisine. A favorite of locals and ‘in-the-know’ visitors, the small restaurant is famous for its legendary wine list of over 850 and its great regional cuisine.
Foie gras (of course!)
The local specialty of Jambon persillé – ham hocks simmered in aligoté (white wine from Burgundy) which is then turned into a terrine with parsley. Sounds simple but this was amazing…
Beef carpaccio, although not a local specialty, scored high points and pairs so well with the local wine.
When you’re ready for a break from the wine and food, it’s time to pay a visit to the town’s true jewel: the magnificent Hôtel-Dieu.
It’s France’s most splendid medieval charity hospital and a symbol of the town’s history. For the past 150 years, it is also home to an annual charity wine auction known as Hospices de Beaune throughout the wine trade, an event that has since become an indicator of pricing trends for the current vintage.
Now a museum, you’re able to stand in the impressive Salle des Malades – the hospital wards – where rows of enclosed wooden beds were used to heal the poor (some as late as the 1980s!).
The kitchen
But the most stunning feature of the hospital is without a doubt its extravagant roof with Burgundian glazed tiles.
It’s like nothing you’ve ever seen before and you’ll need some time to take it all in, from the geometric patterns to the colorful tiles.
Soon you will have seen pretty much everything there was to see in this charming little town and the good news is, there are tons of nearby villages that are waiting for you to explore. Beaune is literally in the center of the rolling hills of Burgundy which have given birth to some of the world’s most famous and expensive wines. Ever heard of Chablis or Nuits-St-Georges? Perhaps not if your paycheck isn’t close to that of a hedge fund manager, but it’s nevertheless thrilling to be standing in the middle of such prized vines.
Whether you opt to rent a car or take a bike tour like we did, you’ll love the scenery of undulating pretty towns and vines as far as the eye can see.
Having a knowledgeable local guide is an obvious advantage though as there’s so much history you just wouldn’t get in a book. In between pedal strokes we’d learn about the Great French Wine Blight which had to be cured by planting American vines, immune to the pest. And how the vines around us produced such different wines that a mere 10 feet of distance was enough to create an entirely new personality from the varied soil.
Wherever you look you’ll see a calm and serene tableau of winemakers and farmers working the venerated soil.
You’ll also spot extremely old hideouts used to protect from sudden rain and store tools and equipment.
Superior wine comes from superior grapes and these beauties are surely some of the best looking I’ve seen.
Beaune wines have always been predominantly red and made from the flagship Pinot Noir…
…though lately there’s been a growing demand for Chardonnay so white is having a little moment!
Passing through villages you’ve seen on so many fancy labels is a treat, and of course they’re as enchanting as their names suggest.
We made a stop in the scenic village of Volnay where there are nearly five times more wine labels as there are inhabitants so that gives you an idea..
Every house has its own operation with garages storing barrels, yard used for cleaning and basement for ageing.
Next is the village of Pommard which rarely needs an introduction as it is considered the typical Bourgogne wine: deep red, powerfully aromatic, solid and trustworthy.
We dropped in at a small local producer and got to visit the family operations on site, barrels in the cave…
…and a well deserved tasting after a rainy ride! There are so many houses to choose from, you’ll either have to pick at random or go with a few names you’ve tried at home. Either way, you’ll no doubt leave with a few bottles and continue on to the next village or collapse at a local inn. The only drawback to visiting Burgundy is that you might return home slightly heavier and addicted to wine outside of your regular purchasing limits – you’ve been warned!
