It may be the smallest of the Baltic States, but Estonia is packed full of medieval charm and cultural marvels, especially in its splendid capital – Tallinn. Dating back to the 13th century, the compact town has been shaped by hundreds of years of outside dominance by the Germans, Swedes and Russians, leaving an enchanting mishmash of culture and architecture within its walls.
The heart of Tallinn is the Old Town, still mostly enclosed by the city’s medieval walls.
To get a good first view of the city and its famous Gothic spires, nothing beats climbing to the top of the tower of St Olaf’s Church.
Once the tallest building in the world, it is still the highest point in Tallinn and its 124m high viewing platform offers the best vantage point over the entire city.
Once back down, it’s a straight line following adorable Pikk (which means ‘long’) street, enjoying several fanciful facades along the way, to get to the entrance of the upper town.
Pass through the gate…
…and follow the old wall up Pikk jalg (‘Long Leg Street’).
You will be greeted by the beautiful sight of the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral from 1900.
Step inside for a great dose of Russian Orthodoxy, a colorful display, and a glimpse of many locals in traditional attire – about a third of Tallinn’s population is Russian.
Feel free to wander around the quaint streets behind. Toompea hill (which is how the upper town is called) isn’t that big so it’s impossible to get lost here and you’re sure to stumble upon a few beauties.
St Mary’s Cathedral is the main sight in the center with its baroque tower and quiet surroundings.
There are also two fantastic viewing platforms on the hill. The Patkuli Viewpoint is closest to the old town and allows you to survey it all, from the ferries shuttling in the distance to and from Helsinki (just 50 miles away) to St. Olav’s Church tower standing tall.
Kohtu street links the viewpoint back to the beginning of the upper town.
Passing by a former mansion which now houses the Estonian Academy of Sciences.
The way back down is through the imposing city wall near the Russian Cathedral, which once had 46 towers (26 remain).
One of these towers is the fun-to-pronounce “Kiek in de Kök” meaning “Peek in the Kitchen”, essentially what guards could do from up there.
On the way down you’ll get to stand in the former garden of the Danish king with some more great views of the impressive skyline.
You’ll arrive at Freedom Square, a plaza bound by St. John’s Church, the Victory Monument column commemorating the Estonian War of Independence, and art deco buildings.
Take Harju street to the left to get into the heart of the lower town…
Mostly pedestrian, the lower town makes for a sensational stroll and will quickly show you all the reasons why it’s been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
While Toompea Hill has always been the administrative centre, the lower town has remarkably preserved the domestic architecture of the merchants’ houses and the medieval narrow winding streets.
Eventually you’ll end up at the Town Hall Square, the city’s social center and where every streets seem to lead. What used to be the main marketplace (and where public events such as killings took place) is now buzzing with beer gardens, medieval stalls and craft sales.
It’s worth exploring around to find Ste Catherine’s Passage (Katarina Kaik), one of the prettiest little walkways in all of the old town.
You’ll find artisans workshops on one end where you can purchase unique souvenirs…
…and what’s left of St. Catherine’s Church at the opposite end with its charming abandoned courtyard.
If you exit on Vene street, a few feet more will lead you to yet another hidden jewel – the master craftsmen’s courtyard and the cosy Pierre Chocolaterie. You can opt to sample their tasty chocolate cake in peace and quiet here, or cross the street for something much more substantial…
The Restaurant Tchaikovsky is situated inside the gorgeous Telegraaf Hotel and specializes, as the name implies, in Russian cuisine.
One of the best restaurants in the city, expect a gastronomic meal of Russian classics with a fancy touch.
Tomato water consomme
Poached asparagus with tuna and ramsoms sauce
Octopus with avocado, white fish roe and fennel sauce
Lobster pelmeni with apple, spinach and saffron sauce
Roasted halibut fillet with octopus and mussels sauce
Tallinn is also known for its nightly entertainment and has quickly become a favorite of stag weekends. You’ll hear music from just about every corner and see crowds merrily spilling onto the narrow streets. If you’re in for a bit of nostalgia, I highly recommend you track down in a side street the ‘Depeche Mode Baar‘ which, as its name implies, is entirely dedicated to the famous English band.
Fan memorabilia adorn the walls, all the cocktails are named after their songs, and of course only DM music plays over the speakers. There’s also a DJ spinning in the room next door if you ‘just can’t get enough’ and need to hit the dance floor. What a blast!
Heading north along the walls lead to a slightly quieter part of the old town.
More residential, you’ll catch glimpses of courtyards and chapels, picturing life as it was hundreds of years ago.
Uus street is especially lovely and seems frozen in time, the iron lamplights jet black against the pastel facades in a tableau ready for framing…
One of Tallinn’s most beloved local restaurants is tucked away near the end of the street, accessible via a small staircase leading up to an open garden.
Leib Resto ja Aed is a casual restaurant focusing on simplicity and the freshness of their ingredients which come from local producers. The summer months see the outdoor terrace packed and the grill busy, flaming up local fish, meat and vegetables for very gentle prices.
The inside is equally charming and homey.
Estonians have a very strong connection with bread and you’ll never start a meal here without a homemade version of their typical ‘black bread’ made from rye.
House black bread
Clear fish soup with fresh herbs
Marinated Baltic herring
Quail with warm potato salad and chimichurri sauce
Home smoked trout fillet with coleslaw and new potatoes
Selection of Estonian cheese
Taking a stroll around, it’s well worth looking up to see ornamented roofs and balconies…
…true signs of the wealth that was prevailing in this major trading town, some buildings so opulent they look like birthday cakes!
So many doors also caught my attention, fit for a princess tale they’re a reminder that Tallinn was for a long time the backdrop for Soviet fairytale films.
You can’t miss one of the most famous Merchant House, a textbook example from the 15th century Golden Age, which was nicknamed the “Three Sisters”. It turned into the wonderful Three Sisters Hotel where we stayed.
A central courtyard is the ideal escape with a coffee or glass of wine.
Our room had all the original features from the beam ceilings to the claw foot tub.
The breakfast was worth noting (and photographing too!) – I could start every day with smoked fish, fruits and cheese.
The location of the hotel is fantastic, close to so many landmarks and also secret hideaways… Those in the know make sure to book a visit to Mull, an adorable champagne lounge nearby owned by a former model. Not easily visible from the street, you enter through a flower-filled courtyard where you can sit and sip your glass of bubbly in the most serene scene in town.
Beatrice has turned her home into a private restaurant and cooks tasty, comforting food for her guests.
Local mushrooms with cream
Grilled pike with capers
The inside of the house is a whimsical feast of colors where artists friends have created an exuberant experience.
Whichever room you eat in will amaze with its tiny details, from the vintage cushions to the stunning model photos on the walls.
On a more classic note, also nearby is Tallinn’s oldest cafe, Maiasmokk, opened at the same location since 1864. Go to have a peek at the unchanged interior…
…and stay to sample one of their delectable sweets.
While the majority of the sights are in the old town, Tallinn has a few more treasures outside its walls and it’s worth venturing out a bit, at least to see Kadriorg Park.
Besides beautiful, manicured gardens, the park is also home to the Presidential Residence (below)…
…the modern-looking KUMU Art Museum…
… and the picture-perfect Kadriorg Palace now housing the Kadriorg Art Museum.
The baroque palace was built in 1725 for Catherine I of Russia by Peter the Great.
The building is a work of art in and of itself, but step inside and you’ll get to see some of the Estonia Museum of Art’s best foreign paintings.
The frilly and fabulous interior almost steal your eyes away from the artwork on display.
The front yard opens up to the many trails winding through the park.
The area surrounding the park is also worth a little wandering around as it is one of the prettiest residential neighborhoods in the city, with traditional wooden houses aplenty.
If time permits, I strongly recommend you do a half-day or full day trip outside of the city. As beautiful as Tallinn is, there’s much more to Estonia than the capital and the fresh countryside air (the World Health Organisation ranked Estonia #1 for the cleanest air in the world) demands to be inhaled deeply. Thanks to the country’s dense forests which cover almost half of it, as soon as you drive away from Tallinn you’ll feel the invigorating and crisp breeze. No need to venture very far though as a little piece of paradise is just a 30 minutes taxi ride away – the picturesque seaside village of Kaberneeme and its spectacular restaurant OKO on the edge of the Baltic sea.
The rustic and eco-friendly restaurant offers a fascinating sea view and huge summer terrace.
The dreamy interior also contributes to the appeal, every nautical aspect and natural material so very well thought of.
This was my favorite meal in Estonia and that says a lot when you can eat such splendid and sophisticated food so far away from the city. Eating at OKO felt like ingesting the best example of what Estonian cuisine is all about, with a pride for local ingredients and perfect technique worthy of the highest accolades.
Of course, we started with the house black bread with whipped goat cheese as a spread (and what a lovely presentation!)
Smoked duck salad – nuts, mango, grapefruit
Fish soup – quail egg, potato, sorrel
Salmon, wild garlic and potato mash, crispy onion, fish roe
Grilled pike, tartar sauce, carrot, radish
Blackberry sorbet with panna cotta
And in true Estonian style, the meal finishes with one or many digestifs, here a homemade melon liqueur and golden root vodka.
Needless to say, an after meal beach stroll is in order, to breathe in some more of that healthy air and stare at the dramatically dark and seductive Baltic Sea.
